So like many my glove box broke. While knowing I could get a used one around $53.00 or new one from $150-$240. I first tore into mine. Then come to see I could fix it so I did. When I realized that, I took pictures. I got it fixed and works better than ever. I had a hard time loading pictures on here and it wouldn't let me upload the Microsoft power point either. So I took a video of it with my phone and uploaded on you tube and finally able to get a link on here. So I hope it works out for you.
GOOD LUCK

 

Thank you for this. Ripping the halves of the door apart is pretty brutal, kind of like orthopedic surgery, but this worked perfectly and saved me a wad of cash!

 

hey AlphaFox,

Your Welcome... I am glad it worked out for you.. Yah, tearing the 2 pieces of door apart is brutal in deed, but worth it

 

I had to do the same different approach but like your style

Sent from my iPhone using NAMotoring

 

Hey MM & glove box fixers - I just did this same split op on a (ok special x) GF's car and came across your video afterwards while looking for what sticks to g-box material... cool you made it a Youtube procedure documenting 1st time fix - Gunga Din!

I used fiberglass auto trim tools to jam gaps and protect snapping-turtle blood blisters, and went in prepared for destruction, but it leaves beautifully nesting bumps and divots that clearly with right adhesive will create a monstrous bond.

On my (SXGF's) glove box, one of the two support brackets had busted, just the top broke off so the latch mech was flopping about, with only a twist-of-the-wrist knack keeping the darn thing closed until a spirited yump had it flop open.

Hindsight - here's my 5 cents worth - the controlled application of force with intermediate consecutive small surprises with a wow-everything's-OK explosive finale!

Once in there this allows for a range of fixes using OEM or other parts. I worked from side to side... now looking at and with the benefit of MM's pics, you might see a strategy to pop the joints in a more orderly manner and reduce the big ending, but it seems it is ok whatever way it's done.

Take your time and keep the gaps jammed open (with whatever) as much as you can, both to keep pressure on the next joint to pop, so adding to whatever force you apply with your hands, to keep the gap open so you can get your hands in there, and also to prevent it snapping back on your fingers or worse a little pinch of flesh. It almost got me once, and I'm darn sure it would have hurt. Thing is after doing it once, you see how easy it is, but most of us would likely only do it once, so it's an adventure for sure.

Also it lets go with some gusto, so eye protection's probably a good idea should a little piece of plastic fly out at high speed. That said, I didn't find even one tiny piece of loose material falling out when I did it - apart from the little sector from broken lock support. Clean breaks all.

Plus nothing to lose really - still the wrecking yard or eBay and other higher $ choices if you have a fail.

Will post pic of before and after repair - will take MM's advice re bonding materials - thank you!

 

I know this is an ancient thread and I did search to see if there is more up to date information...

How has this repair held up? I have my doubts that it could last for long. I hope I'm wrong!

Thanks,
Dave
'05 R52 with a permanently closed glovebox

 

hello,

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...t-holding.html

Here is the old thread on the fix. That top portion you can get the catch but the hook is part of it. Another option: Also we carry the euro ones linked that deletes it all together.

 

Interesting solution, thanks! It's good that you found a way to show us this video.