I have the eternal problem of tire places cranking down way to much on my wheel lugs.
I just went out to put on my winter wheels and the first wheel went ok. One lug was stuck on the second and 2 on the 3rd wheel and gave up for the moment. (all three stuck lugs are still in place and I only have one wheel on)

Last season I broke a lug changing the wheels so I'm affraid to do anything drastic like using an extension on my wrench. I'm planning on walking to a store to buy an impact wrench. Unforntantely my compressor is way to small to run one properly (I've borrowed one in the past) I get a few seconds of impact before. Anyone have experience with electric one for this purpose?

I don't have any trouble removing the wheels when I was the one who put them on last.

First how do I get tire places to keep from doing this? The local mini dealer is just as bad (new country in Hartford) My oil plug was in so tight I couldn't get it to move and it started to round off. I gave up and took it back to them extremely pissed. They gave me new plug for free but charged me for an oil change. I got the impression if it were really stuck and damaged the pan they wouldn't have taken any responsibility for what they did.

Second any tips for safe lug removal. I was out about $150 dollars to take care of the broken lug last spring.
Should I just take my car to a shop so I don't have to deal with this and let them deal with anything that brakes?

If I actually had a spare I'd be worried about what would happen if I got a flat...

If I drive to a store I should probably put the summer wheel back on. Probably not good driving with one snow tire...

 

well if you could reach behind the wheel you could spray a little wd40 on the back to help break the bolts loose....?

seriously tho, if it cost you $150 to take care of a broken lug bolt you should just switch to studs and a nut. IMHO

 

So you can't over-tighten a stud and nut? I think I'd be happier with studs but I don't see that solving the issue at hand. If the stud or nut breaks I'm probably in the same boat as when the lug breaks.

I've put a little liquid wrench on them and hopefully that helps... I also called my Dad to borrow his impact wrench.

 

You can still over-tighten a stud/nut combination. In the airline business we use a lot of Kroil for these situations. Wurth also makes an excellent product. The impact wrench will probably help as the hammering helps to break loose the corrosion which is probably the primary culprit. On the aircraft we use a screw knocker which is a rivet gun with a screwdriver tip and a wrench to provide torque while hammering with the rivet gun. Noisy but effective.

As a preventative, a small amount, repeat SMALL AMOUNT, of anti-sieze will go a long way toward preventing the corrosion. Insisting on the use of a torque wrench will help as well. The pan plug does tend to want to stay in the pan even when the correct torque is applied. I always use a 6-point socket or wrench on the plug. 12-point or open-end wrenches will round off the hex.

Good luck.

 

Sounds like I may have been a little overly critical of my dealer with the oil plug, I learned my lesson with the open wrench
Still every other car I've owned the oil plug has been easy removal. Of course I've found everything is more difficult then it should be on the mini. I think I'm going to be relegating the home mechanic work to restoring my 72 bug and leave the mini to the "pros"...

 

Wheels are on and no broken lugs

One last tip make sure you have the directional tires on the correct wheels. I was packing up my tools when I noticed my rear tires were swapped spent a little extra time setting that straight.

Still would like advice on preventing this in the future. Telling the shop to make sure and torque them properly sound like a great way to get them to intentionally over tighten the lugs.

 

Anytime I go to a tire/wheel shop I insist that they only tighten using a torque wrench, no impact stuff. If they refuse, I don't ever return. Not had a problem with that though.

 

true, some tire shops likely over tighten wheel lugs with air impact tool
(thats why I do my own stuff at home)

but often...especially for you folks up north with harsh winters and/or park your cars outside...there is a lot of corrosion that occurs, I've even heard of people getting their lugs off but still having to pry the wheel off! ...was seized on...not over tightening there...just elements...

this stuff helps bunches:

PB Penetrating Catalyst



The world famous PB Blaster Penetrating Catalyst is more than just great. PB quickly breaks loose surface tension rust and corrosion by creeping up, around and in to hard-to-reach cavities. It's ideal for brake, exhaust and suspension system jobs. Plus, lubricating film remains on parts to help prevent further rusting.

• A true penetrant
• Formulated in 1957
• Rust inhibitor
• Breaks loose surface tension of rust/frozen parts
• Much higher flashpoint ** 152F
• Non-evaporating lubricant
• Saves time & money by ensuring user will not have to burn off or drill out nuts & bolts or other expensive & time consuming means of repairs

 

Remember any anti seize or lube of any type alters the torque values. If your car is subject to winter driving and salt and you have to use a petroleum product to get the nut or bolt to break loose. Be sure to clean them before reinstalling them. I have found most top line tire shops use a torque wrench to install wheels just make sure they know the correct value..Good luck.

 

I only use one tire shop here in town and I ask them "politely" to not use the impact on my wheels. They don't mind at all. Unless they cuss me when I leave.
ASK AND YOU SHALL RECEIVE.

 

Since some shops ignore requests to properly torque the lugs, the first thing I do when I get home after visiting the tire store is loosen and re-torque the lugs. This sometimes requires a breaker bar with a pipe extension. The thing to do is take a torque wrench with you to the tire store and loosen and re-torque the lugs in the parking lot before you leave. If you can't get them loose then you can immediately go back in the store and challenge them on their shoddy work.

 

As to your earlier question about electric impact wrenches. I've had my Craftsman 1/2 drive electric (110V not battery) for many years and it is easily the equivalent of a typical air driven impact. It has been used many times on crankshaft pulleys, wheels and suspension parts. Great tool, glad I own it.

Cheers, Kermit