I'm sure this topic must have came up before but in my searching I can't find the answers I need.

I am planning to haul my Mini to the track in a couple of weeks in my enclosed trailer. Mini fits in fine. What I need to know is what is the best way to secure it?

Here is what I have heard and read so far....

1. Use straps that go through the wheels from Porsche owners. Have seen the staps they use but I don't know if looping a strap through my wheels is the best route.

2. Get some special T-hooks the go in place of the rubber jack points. Finding these hasn't happened yet.

3. Do not strap onto any piece of the suspension as it cannot handle the stress.

If anyone can give me pointers on what I need to do I would greatly appreciate it.

 

Something along these lines - a wheel strap - seems to be the safest that I have seen:



These ones I found at jcwhitney.

 

And yes! Do NOT attach to suspension pieces. Someone towed my brother's mini by connecting to the rear lower control arms. Went to an autocross and lower control arm broke. You could see how it had been creased and why the resulting failure. Changed both sides and could see the other side was ready to go too. The web straps around the tires is a good way to go.

TomA

 

I'd have to argue that the best way to tow a vehicle is the way the manufacturer intended...

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...=43572&R=43572

T-Hooks aren't that hard to find. Ratchet straps crossed with T-hooks in the chassis holes.

Pulling on the wheels seems silly to me if you cross the straps as required. Want some toe-in on the front and toe out in the rear?

The straps that go over the tires aren't damaging, but don't secure the chassis (ie: suspension moves while being towed) and they're a pain in butt to adjust.

I've done it it with tire straps and T-hooks and much prefer the T-hooks for sure. I've towed that way for the last two seasons.

Brian

 

ProMini has suspension tie down clips for all four corners. I have them at the rear for dyno days:smile:

 

the holes left when jacking point rubber blocks are taken off is the spot to secure the t-hooks. my suggestion is go to a railroad yard and ask for some "old" t-hooks used to tiedown corvettes. they fit the same ... I know .. have tied down vettes for several years .. and the hooks fit the mini .... criss cross the ties and you're in business .. meaning: take the tie from left side and go forward to right side O ring on floor - take right side front to left side front O ring ...
the left rear is secured on right side and right side to left rear 0 ring ... believe me -- the car will not move !!

 

Brian is absolutely correct about the T-hook method. I took his advice and bought a set of the hooks from Bob Tunnell, and all was well for a few tows. However, I have found that the T-hooks work best when secured in the tiedown hole in a perpendicular fashion. But this isn't feasible on some trailers, particularly when using the "criss-cross" method of strapping down the chassis. I have found that the twisting torque on the T-hooks started to warp the tie-down holes, to the point that one of the hooks actually slipped out. As a result of the holes being somewhat misshaped, I had problems getting a couple of the jacking blocks back into the holes. Fortunately, I was able to bend them back into shape by using a pry bar. Although I still prefer this method of towing, I had some add'l "D" hooks welded to my trailer, and I have switched to using wheel straps, and, yes, they're a pain. But at least I don't have to worry about being protested for missing jacking blocks.

Of course, YMMV.

Jim Z

 

Thanks for all the input.

 

Why not just buy an extra tow hook and secure the car front and

back using them?

 

The threaded hole for the tow hook is offset to the right side of the car, both front and rear, so you would not have a balanced approach in tying down the car.

 

Jim, I've had no problem like you have mentioned and have towed many miles this way (all local events and Nat events last year and this year). I've looked at my holes and not seen any deformation in them either. The jacking blocks go in and out without a problem. I only put the blocks back in for National events.

Brian

 

Brian,

That's why I ended my post with YMMV. My difficulties could be a result of how/where I was tying down on the trailer, but I had to make a change to my method, as the holes were clearly becoming distorted.

Jim

 

I actually don't know what YMMV means...

Sorry for the misunderstanding

Brian