Ive got that loud knocking and alignment thrown off recently too. Coming from both sides at this point and during last oil change, BMW said the control arms were shot and asked for $2200 to replace them. The also said the REAR sway bar bushings were done for and wanted $1100 to replace with a new sway bar because apparently bushings are glued on.

As a frugal DIYer, I searched and searched but cant find any DIY guides with pics or anything.

Are these items DIY friendly?

If so, Should I need to do steering end links and sway bar links at same time or any other items while replacing?

2014 MCS manual, 89k miles.

 

Bump. I too am curious if the rear sway bar bushings really are glued on and that one is better off just replacing the bar along with the bushings?

 

Fortunately, the front control arms are much easier to remove on the 3rd generation cars, compared to the 1st and 2nd generation cars. You don't have to drop the subframe to get them out. If you are handy in the garage, you should be able to swap the front control arm bushings on a Saturday afternoon. Way Motor Works will sell Powerflex bushings pre-pressed into the brackets, too, so a quick in and out and you're done.

 

I didn't know that about Way Motor Works!, thanks for that since I will be going the powerflex route on those too... but it's the rear sway bar bushings I was curious about. Are the original stock bushings really glued on or should they come out without a problem onve you happen to access the bolts to get their holding bracket off?

 

Those rear bushings are bonded to the bar. I don't have personal experience with them, but I imagine if you got access to them, they could be cut off.

PowerFlex sells replacements, but you would have to confirm diameter of the bar:
https://www.powerflexusa.com/shop/ca...-f56-2014-1472

 

Yes we do offer the front powerflex control arm bushings prepressed into brackets to make the job much easier. We normally replace the entire control arm, and add the powerflex bushings on the front
https://www.waymotorworks.com/powerf...s-f55-f56.html
https://www.waymotorworks.com/aft-fr...5-f56-f57.html

As for the rear sway bar. I have not seen a set of stock rear bushings fail yet. So I would do some real good looking at them and verify they have actually failed. We do offer the powerflex rear sway bar bushings, but you have to measure the bar with a pair of calipers as there are a few different sizes and you have to have the exact size or you will be creating a problem.
I would check the end links as that is more common to fail. We do also offer a complete upgraded sway bar with bushings also.
https://www.waymotorworks.com/wmw-25...5-f56-f57.html

 

Awesome that you offer those brackets prefitted. What kind of grease do you use to get the polly bushings in? Do you teflon line it at all?

Given whatever it is you use, how long before it typically needs to be regreased.

 

There is no good reason to change the bushings on the rear bar. I'd be very surprised if they have actually failed. The end links, however, do fail. You will have to remove the bar to get at bushings, that's a PITA. A new rear bar is under $200, so that crazy price is the labour to do so. End links can be done by jacking up that corner and taking the wheel off. I suggest stock ones. Mine are fine after 42k, upgraded rear bar and many autocross events. The stock front lower arm bushings don't last forever, but neither do aftermarket ones or the non-replaceable outer balljoints. Many people don't like the increase in NVH aftermarket ones have. I autocross my Mini, but prefer stock bushings wherever possible as it also my daily...