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so far it's great. Sound increase isn't much at all. Cruising around sounds stock. The exhaust pops are pretty loud now!!
also lots and lots of turbo noises. You really hear the DV doing its job
I agree!! For me, it is about the same way on my "16 JCW F56, I have about 10-15% louder exhaust note, 20-30% louder crackles and small pops.. and rarely, huge pops! 80% louder!
I have more F series downpipes in stock. 7 of them will be Extreme Ceramic Coated Black by Friday.
Let me know if you would like to reserve one.
F series B46/48 Downpipe
My F 2.0 series DP's It's 2.75" 304 16G Stainless Steel, ported flange, mandrel bend piping and OEM size flare. Keeping and even 2.75 keeps the low end drivability, but makes great top end power and no freeway drone. The Extreme Ceramic can handle up to 2300F, important since the turbo reaches over 1600F+. Ceramic also protects for customers living, with salted winter roads
The flange is ported to align with factory turbos and to match the new growing market of hybrid turbos.
Expect about a 15-20% increase in sound, with a deep done.
They are $749 in the Extreme black finish and $649 in bare stainless finish, this includes tax and shipping in the US.
Also, my new batch of downpipes now have built in downpipes frequency bung on the second O2 sensor, so it won't trigger a non- cat CEL
Thank you
Mario
mQubed Motorsport, Manic Tuning Dealer
Hello Mario
What is a downpipe frequency bung?
I plan to order soon but wonder what was the logic on how to defeat a cel, I am a bit weary because on other cars I have had P0141 on full wot runs.
The bung design doesn't trigger a CEL for not having a cat. It look several tries to get it right
Email me when you are ready to get one MarioPalza@gmail.com
mQubed Motorsport, Manic Tuning Dealer
__________________ 2013 GP2 #295, 270whp/310wtq, KO4 47mm Turbo, 18" NM Wheels, Alta intake, Manic Stage III+, HFS-3 Meth, 30% E85 Blend, Forged IC, Alta Hot Pipe, P&P/Ceramic Exhaust Manifold, m3 Extreme Ceramic DP, Vibrant mid res, 4" Double walled Tips, WMW/KW V3 CO, Alta Rear CA, CREE Fogs, Black out F/R Rings and Gas Cap, M7 CF Front Splitter, and No Stickers. MORE TO COME!! Previous 04Triple Black 17% Alta, MM Air/H2O, CAI, OBX Header, FBT Head, Shrick Cam, 234whp
How do I buy this! I have a mini f56 2015 and can’t find anything anywhere. I saw LZ
Originally Posted by MarioKart
I have built the N14/N18 Ceramic Coated DP, but now I'm moving to the new F56 2.0 and the BMW s63 (M5 M6 X5)
The F56 DP is no joke and has many challenges compared to others. I expect really nice, top end gains and I have unique second O2 bung, that won't trip a CEL light for no cat. The Jig is coming around nicely. I should have a finished F56 DP in 2 weeks
Here are few pix and one of my R56 DP with the Extreme Ceramic coating that handles up to 2300F
Thanks
Mario
I am on the hunt to buy a dp for my 2015 mini f56 US spec. Someone help. I have a JCW pro and want catless
@MarioKart Are you still selling these? I'm looking to buy a DP in the next few months. My F55 has the JCW Tuning Kit and Exhaust... just to confirm, it should fit and not throw CEL? TIA!
@MarioKart Are you still selling these? I'm looking to buy a DP in the next few months. My F55 has the JCW Tuning Kit and Exhaust... just to confirm, it should fit and not throw CEL? TIA!
i have no idea how anyone bent that heat shield that the downpipe sits on. I wedged a jack handle from underneath and used the jack to apply pressure and it will bend only a tiniest amount and then once pressure is taken off it goes right back.
The heat shield that is causing all the problems is the one you can see under the downpipe. Why wasn't the downpipe made to avoid this issue since everyone seems to have it?
oh and I can't get the downpipe out to give me more room lol. This is a disaster
i no longer know what to try except set the car on fire and walk away.
So I got mine earlier this week and installed it yesterday. I didn't feel comfortable putting my Mini on my jack stands so ended up having to use ramps. That made things a bit difficult due to the height.
I ran into this issue too of not being able to drop the DP correctly due to it hitting the bottom heat shield. I spent several hours just banging away best I could and got it enough that I was able to finally put the clamp onto the turbo and DP, then with enough pressure from the clamp, it finally sat flush (or so I think, It's on there really solid as hell now...). Once I tried to put the top of the heat shield back on, only the top 3 torx bolts matched up correctly (BTW, that circular thing that goes into a slot on the right side is TERRIBLE!). I was able to get the one very deep down on the right side after using a crowbar to push in and my hand to pull forward, but the other 2 (from the quoted pic) has a huge gap. I had to leave those off for now. After I connected everything back up, I started it up and it sounded weird. Not sure if it's an exhaust leak or if the top heat shield is rattling or the DP is rattling around on the bottom one.
All together, it took me 5 hours to install. 2 of those hours was awkwardly trying to hammer the bottom heat shield. I drove around for a bit and definitely feel extra torque in it with just mid mode. It sounds great and deep, and since I run with my JCW exhaust valve open all the time, the pops are insanely loud. I probably have to drive around with the exhaust valve closed now. Maybe lol
I'm too tired from yesterday but next Saturday my friend is going to help me figure out what I'm hearing and hopefully we are able to fix it, as well as to help me fine tune a little.
-edit-
After less than 30 miles, CEL came on. "Catless downpipe detected." :(
Last edited by joemysterio; Sep 9, 2019 at 09:52 AM.
So I got mine earlier this week and installed it yesterday. I didn't feel comfortable putting my Mini on my jack stands so ended up having to use ramps. That made things a bit difficult due to the height.
I ran into this issue too of not being able to drop the DP correctly due to it hitting the bottom heat shield. I spent several hours just banging away best I could and got it enough that I was able to finally put the clamp onto the turbo and DP, then with enough pressure from the clamp, it finally sat flush (or so I think, It's on there really solid as hell now...). Once I tried to put the top of the heat shield back on, only the top 3 torx bolts matched up correctly (BTW, that circular thing that goes into a slot on the right side is TERRIBLE!). I was able to get the one very deep down on the right side after using a crowbar to push in and my hand to pull forward, but the other 2 (from the quoted pic) has a huge gap. I had to leave those off for now. After I connected everything back up, I started it up and it sounded weird. Not sure if it's an exhaust leak or if the top heat shield is rattling or the DP is rattling around on the bottom one.
All together, it took me 5 hours to install. 2 of those hours was awkwardly trying to hammer the bottom heat shield. I drove around for a bit and definitely feel extra torque in it with just mid mode. It sounds great and deep, and since I run with my JCW exhaust valve open all the time, the pops are insanely loud. I probably have to drive around with the exhaust valve closed now. Maybe lol
I'm too tired from yesterday but next Saturday my friend is going to help me figure out what I'm hearing and hopefully we are able to fix it, as well as to help me fine tune a little.
-edit-
After less than 30 miles, CEL came on. "Catless downpipe detected." :(
Did you get a tune? They can tune out that CEL from catless DP's. I had to get an additional bung (spacer) from the DP to the O2 sensor. And it has to be the right size otherwise you'll get different CEL codes. I got my spacer from Helix in Philly.
Did you get a tune? They can tune out that CEL from catless DP's. I had to get an additional bung (spacer) from the DP to the O2 sensor. And it has to be the right size otherwise you'll get different CEL codes. I got my spacer from Helix in Philly.
I have the JB4 tune. Apparently they took out the option to auto delete the catless dp code. Got another (same) CEL yesterday and again today.
A spacer? I'll look into it. I love the way the car feels and sounds but I definitely don't want to be dealing with a CEL all the time. That's why I went with this DP to avoid this nonsense. Might be nothing to some, but that's not what I ever want to deal with weekly... especially daily. I contacted Mario but haven't heard back yet after he asked me if I had a tune or not. I hope to get this fixed soon instead of going back to stock.
If you can, get an actual tune. Yea that CEL is depressing. I got the CEL when I first got it and the person who had it previously also got a CEL.
Now with the tune, when the outside temp has big drop, I would get the CEL again. I would just clear it then it'll be fine.
Never heard back from him. Ended up trying a spacer and it's been on for a week without a CEL so far. Hopefully it stays that way.
Also, it ended up being the heat shield causing a rattle so I had to remove the top one, but it's rattling still. Now I wish I had gone with the ceramic coated version, but oh well, maybe I can find a place to coat it for me locally. I hope I can figure out the noise issue now though. This thing has been a challenge so far.
I've been looking for a downpipe for my mini for well over a year and it's just rough no matter how long I wait. I am with joemysterio where a CEL is not something I ever want to see. It appears that in MOST cases it can be avoided, it's just a matter of putting in the spacer.. I prefer the sport cat so I don't have to worry about MOT. A Mario Kart sport downpipe with a spacer, is this an option?
Definitely a must if you're looking for more power. I ordered mine and installed it while the engine was pulled out of the car, so it's easier for my install plus dealing with the heat shields and so forth. I also upgraded the intercooler and the charged air pipes into aluminum hard piping.
Upon completion, I logged 212 hp and 241 ft-lb torque on OBD Torque app (with iCarly module), That's with stock tune and it feels strong!
I did encounter rough vibration because I've modified the passenger motor mount by filling the voids with 3M window weld paste (trying to strengthen the motor mount). After I grind out the subframe right under the DP hanger, the vibrations are gone. My DP is also ceramic coated, loving it!
