Hello all,
I needed to drain my coolant for a project. I used the vacuum fill procedure with success, but can’t get the bleed procedure to initiate. I’m using the steps listed below. I swear I’m doing each step, but it won’t start the pump. This is from newTIS.

After the cooling system has been filled with the vacuum filling unit, another bleeding procedure must be performed for vehicles with an electric coolant pump: Note:
Do not open the sealing cap of the coolant expansion tank during the bleeding procedure.

Switch on the low-beam headlights to perform the bleeding procedure. If the low-beam headlights are not switched on, the ignition (Terminal 15) will switch off automatically after a certain period of time and interrupt the bleeding procedure.


Connect battery charger.
Switch the ignition on.
Switch on low-beam headlight.
Set heating to maximum temperature. Take back blower to smallest stage.
Driving experience switch must not be set to ECO PRO!
Press accelerator pedal for 10 seconds to floor. Engine must not be started.
The bleeding procedure was started by pressing the accelerator pedal and takes approx. 12 min. (the electrical coolant pump was activated and switches off automatically after approx. 12 min).
Then adjust filling level in coolant expansion tank to maximum.
Check cooling system for leaks.
If the cooling system bleeding has to be performed again, deactivate DME completely (remove ignition key for approx. 3 minutes). Then repeat from point 3.

 

Sounds to me like you need to "Start" the car without actually starting the car...

 

can you elaborate please? It says to have it in on position. I did do that.

 

After reading this, for once I'm surprisingly happy to have the R53's own coolant bleeding issues. Wow!

 

Can't help you with the bleed procedure, just my own experience with coolant bleeding in my F54. My car ended up becoming 60oz low last fall, as I discovered I would only get heat at cruise rpm. No idea where the coolant went, but still haven't discovered a leak. Anywho, did the 'old school' method of adding coolant to the 'full hot' level, did (2) days of my daily commute, then repeat. Took (4) cycles of adding till the level remained consistent and deemed the system has now bled out 99+% of any air that got in. I know our coolant system is pretty complex, but you can't tell me that the air won't eventually make it to the expansion tank through normal use. My own advice, if you can't initiate the water pump to run via the instructions, then revert back to the old visual method. Good luck.

 

it literally says that the engine cannot be started and an external battery charger has to be connected not to drain the battery in the process. Ignition on but engine off ….
I know it is an old thread but maybe someone will fin this info usefull

 

read the instructions again. They literally say that the engine cannot be started and an external battery charger has to be connected not to drain the battery in the process. Ignition on but engine off ….
I know it is an old thread but maybe someone will fin this info usefull

 

FWIW, my 2017 ALL4 S had to have the engine running. I followed all the “normal” steps a dozen times and it never worked.

Did some research and found a very similar set of instructions that had the engine running. Sure enough, that did it. After start, the engine idled high for about 10 minutes. I think maybe 1200 RPM (I don’t remember exactly). After the ~10 minute cycle the idle dropped to normal (Around 800-ish)

 

These are perhaps not the most current instructions. The current BMW TIS instructions say to turn the engine on.

COOLANT BLEEDING, Direct from BMW TIS: (see attached document)

1. Fillcoolant expansion tank nearly full, well past the indicator
2. Close sealing cap on coolant expansion tank.
3. Close the engine compartment lid.
4. Engage the parking brake.
5. Make sure that the wheels touch the ground.
6. With automatic transmission: Engage selector lever position P (Park).
7. For manual gearbox: Place in NEUTRAL (idle position).
8. Switch on ignition, make sure ignition remains switched on.
9. Ensure driving experience not in ECO PRO (Sport or Normal mode is OK)
10. Set AC heating to the max heat & blower fan to lowest setting.
11. Hold accelerator pedal down to the floor for at least 10s and do no operate the brake pedal. (then Release accelerator pedal)
12. Start engine. <-------------------
13. Start engine.
14. •The cooling system bleeding routine will start.” You’ll know the routine has started when motors increases idle to about 1,300 RPM for about 10 minutes then eventually drops to a normal ~800 RPM. Allow car to complete cool (30m).
15. After 3 min:
    - Press on accelerator for 10 s at about 3000 rpm. - Idle for 10 s.
    - Press on accelerator for 10 s at about 3000 rpm. - Idle for 10 s.
    - Press on accelerator for 10 s at about 3000 rpm. - Idle for 10 s.
16. After 5 min, the thermostat is automatically supplied with current and the electric coolant pump is automatically switched on
    Protection in vehicle: Pay attention to instrument panel temperature display.
17. After 6 min:
    - Press on accelerator for 10 s at about 3000 rpm. - Idle for 10 s.
    - Press on accelerator for 10 s at about 3000 rpm. - Idle for 10 s
    - Press on accelerator for 10 s at about 3000 rpm. - Idle for 10 s
18. After 9 min:
    - Press on accelerator for 10 s at about 3000 rpm. - Idle for 10 s.
    - Press on accelerator for 10 s at about 3000 rpm. - Idle for 10 s
    - Press on accelerator for 10 s at about 3000 rpm. - Idle for 10 s
19. 11 min after starting the engine, charging/bleeding procedure is ended. The engine speed is again at nominal level. The thermostat current supply is cut and the electric coolant pump is switched off again.
20. Coolant bleeding procedure is ended.

TIPS FROM THIS BLOG, NOT BMW TIS:

1. If no vacuum bleeder, repeat the above process 2-3 more times until no more air bubbles appear in coolant. Allow car to complete cool (30m) between each bleed session. Keep an eye on the coolant level while engine is running. Dont let it get too low or air might be introduced into system. Top off as needed.
2. Finally, drive car normally with extra coolant on-hand. Check coolant level after each drive for next week or so and top off as necessary. It will level off permanently when all air is out of the system.
3. Some people mention a secondary bleeding procedure for the auxiliary water pump. I couldnt find any info on this to verify it nor to instruct on how to do it. Maybe this is unique to the JCW with the B48?? No idea...

Hope this helps!!

 

That coolant bleeding procedure works just as described. You can keep the accelerator pedal down for greater than 10 seconds for step 11, it just has to be at least 10 seconds to trigger the procedure. I had finished replacing my oil cooler housing and ran this procedure 2X, since my car took in 16oz the first pass and then 8oz after the second pass. I let the engine cool down for ~4 hours between pass 1 & pass 2 for reference. I used my phone's stopwatch to follow the procedure and everything plays out just as described. You could clearly tell when the thermostat is opened and the coolant pump is turned on at the 5 minute mark as the temp gauge drops very quickly and right at 11 minutes the engine drops back to a normal idle. After 4 days of daily driving to work, my coolant level has stayed steady without any need to add any additional coolant so far. Will now check it 1X per week for the next month or two.

 

Quick update...almost 2 weeks later and no additional fills required and my heat is still blowing nice and hot. It seems my system has burped out all the air unless there is a bubble caught somewhere internal to the engine, but that seems almost doubtful based on how much coolant it took to refill. YMMV.

 

What coolant did you use?

 

Pentosin Pentofrost NF in the 1.5L concentrated formula. I cut it to 50:50 with distilled water. Turns out all the local parts store chains carry it around me, so my local Napa got the pull as they had the least expensive cost. Can't mistake the color when fresh!!

 

Everything is the same as the previous instructions prior to Step 13. Once the engine is started, there will be a message displayed that reads"Service function started". You don't need to do anything else. The car will idle normally for a few minutes and then rev itself to around 3,500 rpm for about 5 seconds and then return to idle. It will do this about 4-5 times. Once complete, the display will show "Service function complete".

 

I signed up for this wonderful forum just to say thank you for this awesome post- it worked like a charm!