I'm about to make an attempt to install the OEM driving lights on my '06 MCS.

On the install of the brackets it states on page 8 of the R50/R53 instructions that if you have the Sports Package that you need to remove the grill:

"...the recesses for threading through the holders must be made first. The positions and size of the recesses are marked on the reverse of the grille."

Is this to make a notch in the grill for the rivets/ss bolts? I've looked for a post on NAM for a tip on this area of the install but I cannot seem to find one. Also, on the '06 there is a plastic cover left and right under the hood that somewhat slides left and right that seems to be in the way of the single hole end of the bracket. Again, I looked for a photo or tip, couldn't find one.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

 

Put the third set of these on for someone this past Friday so I guess I'll jump in..

I'm about to make an attempt to install the OEM driving lights on my '06 MCS.

On the install of the brackets it states on page 8 of the R50/R53 instructions that if you have the Sports Package that you need to remove the grill:

"...the recesses for threading through the holders must be made first. The positions and size of the recesses are marked on the reverse of the grille."

This means the "Aero grill" - you need to make a holes in the Aero grill for the brackets to go thru. If you have the standard 'slats' grill there's no cutting required. The brackets fit between the slats

Is this to make a notch in the grill for the rivets/ss bolts? I've looked for a post on NAM for a tip on this area of the install but I cannot seem to find one. Also, on the '06 there is a plastic cover left and right under the hood that somewhat slides left and right that seems to be in the way of the single hole end of the bracket. Again, I looked for a photo or tip, couldn't find one.

You can just loose those covers - I'm not sure why they added them - or notch them to have the bracket lay flat. take 'em off and install the brackets and decide if you want to put 'em back or not. They just pop-off.


My two cents is to not use the pop-rivets they give you. a couple of dollars worth of stainless steel hardware seems worth the effort. small bolts and nylon lock nuts is what I prefer to use. sorry - didn't take any pics..

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

 

Thanks for the PMs and tips from BadMINI and Capt BJ. I hope to move forward on this install later his week. If not, hopefully some of the experts out there can help me finish it at the Dragon.

 

Any suggestion on what to treat the drilled holes with on the exposed metal to resist rusting?

 

Hey man, sorry I didn't see you at the Dragon. What I used for anti corrosive mesures after I drilled the holes, was just touch up pait. I put some on and let it dry, then I did this about 2 more times. After it dried, I installed the brackets. I used the rivets that came with it, but that's because I was in a hurry. You probably would be better with screws or nuts and bolts, as you can take them on and off easier. Now I'll have to drill mine out. Keep us informed with the install.

 

I bought the aero grills at the Dragon and finished the install on that last night. It came out great! So while I had the top grill out I drilled the two bottom holes for the lower part of the bracket and sealed them with the touch-up paint. I want to order the H3 bulbs to match the xenons lights so as soon as those arrive I'll fit them through the grill and drill the single top hole for the bracket. I'll seal that with touch-up paint, also. And when I attached the brackets I plan to use some black silicone to REALLY seal of the brackets from moisture. I will also be using stainless bolts which I have already purchased to complete the job.

This is a slow process but I'm in no hurry to get the driving lights on now that the Dragon is over. I was glad I waited until I got the aero grill anyway. (BTW, I used a dental tool to pull down from behind on the nuts on the old grill while I used a nut driver to remove them. This took about 10 minutes! And I re-used the old nuts on the new aero grill without any problems.)

But thanks for your input and I'll keep this post informed of my progress....or beg for help when it comes to the wiring. (I installed the euro shelf and already popped the driving light switch in the hole to complete the look of the shelf.)

 

There's been a few threads about wiring driving lights, and often folks throw out the 'rule' that the driving lites must be tied to the high beams lest they be illegal and that was how all the 'kits' are set up.

The sets I've installed certainly did not contradict this position - I've become a local 'prefered' installer, saving the locals the dealer install cost in lieu of a case (Guiness is choice 1 .... that's a BIT under the dealer install charge...but ya do have to listen to my stories)..... We often discuss the 'tie to highs' vs a simple toggle and many defer to the perception of the law and the fact that the factory harness is set up one way - tied to the brights. Plus, altering the factory harness is a BIT more complicated than a PIAA or HELLA.

BUT

The current Moss catalog offeres 'factory driving lights' and the description says: "Can be set to work with your high beams or controlled separately with on/off switch supplied."

This is a new one on me .... comments?????? Is this a new factory kit I haven't seen yet? Inquiring minds want to know......

 

I can't see the factory allowing illegal use of the driving lights. Could they mean that their switch can be 'set' such that it doesn't automatically reset (turn off) when the car is turned off? That way the driving lights would always come on with the high beams, vs. the current switch which requires the driver to press the switch each time the car is turned on.
Otherwise, .