For a 2004 (pre July/Facelift) mini base model.

my drivers side door stopped opening from the inside; had to roll window down to open.
The cable had come undone from the actuator so i hooked it all up and now it's all acting very strange.
When pushing "lock" button down on the center console none of the locks work at all, though there is a VERY faint click but ONLY some of the time.
Unlock however (pushing switch up) does work. so ruled out a fuse.
Figured the switch was bad too but when I unplug the actuator electrical connection the other two doors work again. both lock and unlock as normal.
So i went to the salvage yard and pulled another actuator and it's doing the exact same thing. No difference between the two
Also sprayed both electrical connectors (actuator and console switch) with contact spray. still no difference.

i think the next step is testing the continuity from the switch to the actuators electric connector but can't find a diagram to test and the terminals are super small. guess i need much smaller multimeter leads if this is the next step.
I have the connector from the junk car and i'm leaning toward replacing the original with it.
is there a certain position that the actuator has to be in to work when being re-installed?

Other than these things i'm at a pretty solid loss as to what it might be. Any insight would be great.
Thank you all in advance.

 

Still having issues:
just changed the electrical coupler and tried both actuators and it's behaving in the same way. any insight would be amazing....

 

The door locks in the door get weak, mine would work halve the time and i replaced both. If the locks are ok then its the toggle switch pack in the middle that needs replaced. Whole toggle bank is one piece.

If its not the toggle bank or the locks its the plug on the back of the toggle bank. They wiggle loose and sometimes have play in them.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...nown-part.html

 

thanks for the reply. I don't think it's the switch because it works fine when i unplug the drivers actuator. if i unplugged it the passenger door and and hatch back worked, as soon as i plugged it in i no longer worked. I did pull the switches anyway, checked for continuity throughout the circuit board and added a dab of dielectric grease to the pads inside. everything still behaved the same. this all goes deeper... will continue it below.

 

plot thickens.

Today (day 3) i was at it again. as i said earlier i completely replaced the electrical connector and nothing changed. then I unplugged brown ground wire and everything worked perfectly again. (don't stop reading however; it gets better (worse?)

anyway I am completely perplexed as to how unplugging the ground did anything - tells me there is something fcky about the circuit... but At that point i was praying i was out of the woods and started to put the actuator back in the door and get everything fastened up. Again, no idea WHY, but things seemed to be working.... THEN... i rolled the window down and OOOOPS... the newly connected wiring was on the wrong side of the track and it got all cut up... yes, STOOOOOPID move... but here's where it gets REALLY GOOD -

I hooked up the wiring again and the now the actuator only clicks and it won't unlock at all. Not manually, not electronically. have tried everything i could think of. had hand in the door flipping any moving part on the actuator, key in the lock, outside handle, inside handle... THE LATCH WILL NOT LET GO.

I was losing my mind at a good pace so dropped everything and im driving my gas guzzling van until i can stand to look at that car again. obv still seeking advice.