One other thing, I hit the flashing warning light after changing wheels for winter. When it wouldn't reset I suspected bad ABS wheel sensor at first. Tests by garage said they were OK.

Normally putting ignition switch to position 2 then pressing TPMS reset switch should change to a solid warning light that then goes out after recalibration when driven a short distance. If the switch is disconnected then the flashing warning light will never go out.

 

Thats whats I would check first. But the early 2001 MINI have some different sets ups then the 2002 here. they had some early heated seats buttons and wiring differences.




Is that swicth in the same location as the 2002+ US

 

Hi,
Thanks for the replies, I'll try to add more info.
Yes, the switch is located below the parking brake.
I've tried numerous times to reset the light in both ignition position 1 and 2, neither one has worked-this has been flashing continuously for a long time now.
It is plugged in properly and the light is illuminated. I have also verified that power is coming through the wires to the switch. I assume the switch is OK, but where the electrical input travels to next is what I'd like to see so I can chase this problem down.

 

Found these which I think may help me investigate further over the weekend. I forgot that they were already on my laptop from a few years ago.
I can check the wires for continuity and the pins for corrosion and see if the power is getting through!

Forgot to mention that this flashing warning light came up after inadvertently hitting the ASC toggle while driving and thinking I was toggling the window switch. When I did this there occurred a short for some reason and all my instruments died. Took a few weeks to sort that out-had to replace a blown fuse and the toggle panel as the circuit board fried on the ASC circuit. Has anyone else done or experienced this?





here's the switch





and here I found it goes to pin 27 of the ABS/DSC unit

 

Welcome, just making sure, if you are getting power and the switch lights up, could be a bad contact in the switch or someone dumped soda or a drink and the switch contacts are sticky or dirty. Common thing in that area. Pull the switch apart and check it out.

 

Thanks for your reply, thought I was on my own for a few days!

I opened the switch last weekend and it actually looked OK, sprayed electrical contact cleaner on the contacts before I plugged the connector back into the switch.
Can you explain how the wiring diagram relates to pushing the button to reset the TPMS?
As in when I push the button does power go to ground or is the view shown after you've hit the reset?

 

Welcome,.

Think you might have a bad switch, power should o to the ground when you hit it. Also there is a power terminal for the little light also.

 

Ok, now that I know the pathway I can verify the switch is OK or not.
Thank you!
I'll come back after I know.

 

Just another thought or two.

If the switch is bad I would assume I could ground the Grey-red wire and then turn the key to ignition position 2 to reset the warning light.

If this works, then the switch is bad.
If it doesn't work then the problem lies at the DSC module or the wiring to it.

Does this make sense?

 

Makes sense, I would test the circuit first and its making contact. Then go to the wheel speed sensor / DSC module.

 

Test results for today.

OK,I've had the switch and wiring out again with the following results.

Grounding the Grey-red wire did not work, the warning light is still flashing.

Further testing of the circuit with the ignition in position 2 gave the following results. These tests were with the wires only, the switch was removed from the connector.
1.Test probes on Blue-red and Brown wires read approx. 11 Volts
2.Test probes on Blue-red and Grey-red wires read approx. 11 Volts
3.Test probes on Grey-red and Brown wires read 0 Volts

If the Blue-red wire is the source of power to light the bulb in the switch this is correct and what we should see. Is the Blue-red wire the bulb power supply?

Test 2 results I find confusing.
Test 3 result - I expected to have power here too, but there wasn't anything.

Are these results pointing to a problem with the DSC then?

Ran out of daylight today, but tomorrow I will have a look at the DSC unit in the engine compartment and see if there is anything strange at pin 27.

I welcome any advice or suggestions to solve this issue.

 

The ABS unit was looked at as well and I tried but failed to get a reading from pin 27 when I had it unplugged and the ignition in position 2. However, not sure I had the right pin as it was very hard to see, tried the two pin positions I thought were most likely and didn't get any Voltage reading in either.

 

Hi,

What is the correct method to test the DSC module?
Can I assume the wheel speed sensors are OK as I don't have an ABS warning light on and the ABS works?

 

Update: Had an auto electrician out yesterday and he suspects there may be a problem with the ABS unit as he cannot find anything else wrong. He was clearly puzzled and a bit frustrated at not being able to solve this issue. After some additional research he telephoned and suggested that the problem was probably with the second hand ABS unit that had been installed. He said that the memory in it should be wiped clean so that it can re-learn once it's reinstalled into our car and then it would be able to communicate as it should within the CAN system where all the electronic components communicate.
More later as this develops-at least I know the wheel sensors, tire pressure re-set switch and DSC module were all operating as they should.

 

After puzzling tor 2 weeks over why the TPMS light was on all the time and could not be reset, this thread answered the mail! The keys here are as follows:
1. If tires are all good and the TPMS light stays on all the time and not accompanied by other lights (ie, ABS/DSC), then it is likely the reset switch that is at fault. I almost bought an ABS wheel sensor which also causes this problem, but the ABS fault light should be on in that case.
2. Wire connector on mine had simply fallen out; no doubt due to some service tech not snapping it back as it should be in a recent dealer encounter.
3. Another clue: If the reset switch is disconnected, the backlit reset switch will not light up.
4. Finally, once reconnected, I tried to reset the TPMS but the light stayed on. I had to drive a few miles and even restarted once before the dashlight went out.


Eureka!


Martin

 

Same experience here Martin! Glad that fixed it for you too.

 

Awesome !!! Welcome.