90 mm diameter

A method of attachment.


Spec-D Halo Top view and 2 side views (one with halo detached from headlight housing; the other shows halo clipped into chrome (or black) headlight housing


This rendering shows the curved surface of the Spec-D halo is ground flat (a belt sander was used). This leaves half of the Spec-D halo with its headlight mounting clips. See 3rd rendering of modified halo mounted in chrome (or black) headlight housing. The flat surface provides a foundation on which the Prism (or other) halo is glued with a quality adhesive (e.g., 2-part JB-Weld or Weld Mount epoxy). The wire harness ports through the existing relief in the Spec-D housing.

In the end, it's a go!

NB: If the luminosity and cutoff line of the factory HIDs are sufficient, then stick with them. If not, now is the time to switch them out for quality HID or LED headlights (some bold-spirited modifications to your new lights will be required). Also, make sure to get some butyl rubber sealant (Home Depot (in the states) stocked some 6 months ago) to reseal the halves of the headlight housings.

 

Interesting, I thought that shaving the rounded, clear Spec-D halo would cause you to create a hole there. I just checked out my headlights again and there seems to be some blocky part of the ring at the bottom of the headlight. Did you just cut through that piece? If you could send photos of your headlights without the halos on I'd really appreciate that. Thanks again!

 

The fake gray ignitor (blocky part) needs be ground off. I forgot to include that detail in the drawing. The ring is a solid piece of plastic that has great strength but has poor Total Internal Reflective properties, creating a weak halo effect. The entire ring is a solid-mold casting, so no hole is made. When the "blocky" part is ground off + 1/2 the thickness of the remaining ring, the inner and outer circumferences are uniform.

It is better and more controlled to grind the ring flat with a tabletop belt sander (see Harbor Freight) rather than trying to cut it.

​​​​​​Unfortunately, I don't have photos without the halos epoxied to the ground down Spec-D rings.

 

Whoops, by without the halos on, I meant them being illuminated.

The gray part was what I was most interested about, I assumed that it would also be hollow. It does look like it would be...

 

i will look in my photo archives. I will be away from my MINI for about 3 weeks, so I cannot take a new pic.

I think it is hollow, not solid, after​ I reflected. The hollow cavity is entirely ground away, leaving only the ring below.

 

No problem keduMINI. Thanks for sharing a lot of the specifics into doing this. I just ordered Diode Dynamics halo rings this morning (as I don't need the RGB, and I like how they don't show individual LEDs) and I just wanted to make sure that I could make this work.

 

That was the defining feature for me too. They look good when the halos are off.

 

Just an update. I was able to open the headlight (finally, the Mini is my daily driver). The piece that you (keduMINI) shaved down is completely removable. In the closed headlight is a Diode Dynamics 90mm ring loosely fitted, so I'll need to still shave down this piece to make it fit. It is hollow behind the grey block of the ring I am holding, so it allows for a hole for the wires to go through. Alternatively, I might get a piece 3D printed as a spacer for the halo ring to sit on.

 

Yes
​​​​​​Not exactly. The gray box IS hollow. Once that fake diode is ground away, you will start sanding the clear ring again. This grinding/sanding goes quickly, so check your depth frequently so you don't make it too shallow - - a flush mount is the target depth. The wires will port through a small valley already present in the angel eye groove at the bottom of the opening.

Excellent idea. You could glue it in with weld mount 2- part adhesive so it will never come out. However, the advantage of using the existing sanded halo is because it mounts soundly/forever in the light casing without glue! I want to repeat, use a top grade, heat resistant epoxy and not fishing line like some Ytube tutorials recommend for attaching halos. I think the new halo has tiny holes around the periphery, baiting (no pun) the installer to use fishing line to mount it -- I humbly advise against it.

Yep, a familiar sight; you're almost there. This dominantly lit halo gives a unique look, in my opinion.

I really want to upgrade my BMW X5 halos, but headlight disassembly is more than oven baking.

 

Here's a pic

 

Shoot, what happened to the pics? I'm a bit annoyed that I can't look back.

keduMINI, I am now looking into the projector retrofit. It sounds like you used Morimoto's Bi-LED projector? It's gotten really tempting to get a second set to retrofit, just so that I can have high beams again. It also doesn't seem difficult mounting-wise.

 

Which pics are you looking for? If related to my replies, while I can still see the pics, I can try to repost them.

Yes. BI-LED: MORIMOTO M LED 2.0 (LHD)

That's correct. Some drilling is required for one mounting hole. Everything will make sense when you get all the components and have the light housing disassembled. A couple of recommendations -- 1) it's good to get a set of nylon spacers to help adjust the LED bulb in the housing; the length of the mounting screws will be guided by how many spacers you use. Use lock washers and blue Loctite on these, and 2) the cooling fan screws on the MORIMOTO BI-LEDs will loosen over time due to heat and vibration, so put blue Loctite on them too.

I regret not documenting my assembly with a step-by-step pictorial, but at the time, I was unsure if any of the methods would work -- basically, I was winging it. However, I can provide sketches of what was done if needed.

 

No worries about the pics, I remember enough of them...I'm just complaining . I tried to see the pics on my PC and my phone, and nothing shows up for me. I've also never posted on any other thread of any kind of forum, so I don't know if I'm doing something wrong, but it's alright...

Good to know as far as the retrofit information. One screw should be pretty obvious once every other screw is put in place! I'm forking out money for the aero kit so the Bi-LED may have to wait, but it really does sound pretty easy. Thanks for the info, it really sheds some light on how modular this headlight really is (pun not intended )!

 

That's great!

Completely Understood! I did my purchases in phases the other way around -- Bi-LEDs, then Garbino front/rear bumpers + aero side skirt kit with painting costs, then Shallen Mesh Wheels.

This "stuff's" expensive! Great fun, though.