I'm having to install a (removable) wheel-chair type lift on the back of a 2010 MCS. To provide power I need to install a standard 7 pin (round) electrical package. It's the same 7 pin on the back of a typical SUV or RV for towing.

Does anyone have any clue / sources for the wiring bundle that runs through the rear (right / passenger side) panel? Ideally I would like to wire the power directly up to the battery compartment, but that may be impractical, so I want to explore that wiring bundle as a possible solution, or anything else in the rear that would have minimual impact.

Can anyone offer any suggestions on how to proceed?

 

I just used a pointed test light to find the wires in my R53.

Just turn signals on and test each wire, and do the same for brakes and lights. Mark the wires as you go along or just note their colors, then use the dracula clips attching the corresponding harness wires. The lift has aux lights correct, or are you just looking for a contant 12v pwr source ?

 

Thanks GR - I've started some of that, a slow process to make sure. The darn battery poss (+) interface is what's going to bug me.... The power is for the lift motor, but it also runs an invertor that charges the chair through 110 while the vehicle is "on" - darn thing has to be 10 gage so I suspect I'll be running it all the way forward unless there's a secret compartment I haven't stumbled upon hiding a handy power line back there!

I appreciate your idea and response.

 

10ga wire, I would run 8ga from the battery to a fuse and then to the back. If you need this done, you might as well do it right. How is all of this weight hanging off the back of the car anyways?

 

Weight has been a driving factor obviously. Mini's aren't designed for a hitch (regardless of the aftermarket claims) but I found a hitch with a 200-250 hitch rating. The whole lift, loaded, weights less then 200 lbs. That combined with a short shank lift adapter puts the load close to body as possible, and I also use a bike tie down from the top of the lift to the top of the hatch lid lip to eliminate as much of the leverage I can.

Edit: and thanks for the 8 ga comment....I'm thinking that's the only way I'm going to solve this whole business.