Hey guys,

Let me begin by stating that my experience with automotive electrical systems was nil until a few days ago (a few weeks, if you consider swapping some speakers out). So bear with me if my understanding is completely off...

My idea is to run a separate fuse block off the battery leads in the engine bay itself, but to make sure the block is not always hot, use a relay tapped into an IGN line. I would prefer to run what essentially amounts to a parallel setup to avoid any over-draw issues on any given fuse/line, as well as keep things organized (OEM block with OEM parts, my aftermarket block for aftermarket parts). All the parts I would need are available at Summit Racing on the cheap, and I could run anything from driving lights to gauges to ICE off of it with no worries or confusion as to their source or draw. Additionally, the actual work would be easy to do...getting to any IGN-hot line for a relay would be a piece of cake.

Am I completely off in thinking this is how some basic automotive electrical work goes, or would this turn out fine (within the constraints of what I mentioned)?

- Matt

 

Where you are going is fine, you just need to know what your goals are. If it's a couple of light loads, a tap-a-circuit will do out of the main fuse block. Powering a separate fuse block off of a MCR is a good way to go for larger loads. There's not a lot of space in the MINI so plan well, otherwise it can turn into a rats nest of wires.

 

Go glove box for interior stuff, engine bay for exterior items. No having to pass through the firewall unless it's require becomes a real blessing.

I picked up everything I needed for the glove box setup for under $10 ($20 if you want to count the 12v outlets I installed. unfortunately I ran out of patience for dealing with it after it was all installed, so I need to run the wires still.

Yeah, I got the 007 gadget car thing going on too

 

I was/am planning on putting the block/relay behind my parcel shelf. Completely hidden and with easy access through the firewall. At the minimum, I will be running 4 lights (driving and fog), 2 gauges, and have an additional 2 cig outlets in the parcel shelf (that I want to be able to both be in use).

Yeah yeah yeah, I know the draw isn't that great and I could tie into a bay &/or cig based 12v yada yada, but like I said, for troubleshooting and convenience purposes I'd rather have a separate block and relay setup.

I'm thinking 10-15 amp fuse block setup, power -> block wiring to match...the rest can go with smaller wiring. If that seems excessive to some, understand I have a 120 watt inverter for my laptop I like to use from time to time, and I plan on running 100 watt driving lights. Like the rest of the car, I prefer it overbuilt to a degree.

And believe me, I'm a fanatic about doing things clean hence my doing it this way. No chance whatsoever of it becoming a rats nest...I'll keep refining this plan until I'm sure it'll be clean. That or discard it.

Word on the 007 car.

- Matt