From Google (Knows All )

Reads good.

 

Sounds like the relay latches so it doesn't require power to stay on.

"Under normal conditions, the relay is always switched on."

I don't know how that relates to this:

"Cutout conditions:

* Reception of the message ”Signal off”.
After 5 minutes, relay terminal 30g-f is switched off.
* The battery status is continuously read out and evaluated in the engine control module. If the starting capability of the vehicle battery is insufficient, the relay is also switched off.
* Data interchange on the buses for 10 minutes after deactivation of terminal 30g without a switch-on condition.
* Vehicle is 'wakened' 20 times after deactivation of terminal 30g without a switch-on condition.

Switch-on conditions:
When the relay terminal 30g-f is switched off, it can only by switched on again with defined conditions required for switch-on.
Conditions required for switch-on for relay terminal 30g-f:

* Unlock vehicle
* Opening the luggage compartment lid / bonnet or door
* Switching on terminal R

The junction box electronics (JBE) monitor the closed-circuit current when the vehicle is at a standstill. The following faults can be detected:

* Unauthorized waking operations on the bus systems
* Control modules that keep the bus systems continuously active (inhibit ”sleep”)"

When is this getting power, and when is it off?

 

I would just set up a temporary 'test' light to see what happens.

Fuse F20 is a mini ATM 30G_F Circuit, so you could use the small Add-A-Circuit that you have already.

Just connect a 12V bulb in a location that you can see (not touching anything to burn or melt) and then watch the bulb to see when it turns off.

It should turn on with unlock (or door/boot open) and then (with no activity from lock/door) turn itself off,
the hope would be to see it turn off in 5 minutes instead of the 30 ? minutes of Fuse 11's 30G Circuit.

I like the idea of its battery condition protection, I have had to jump mine twice, first time in first week and one more time, over a year later. I think it may have been PL left on, but don't know.

For many months before the second incident, I had noticed morning ScanGauge voltage reading 11.7> 11.6V.

The battery was never totally dead, but wouldnt start and I charged it 24 hours with a 2amp trickle charger (sealed battery can be damaged by a high rate, unless using a special "13.8V" controled charger).

I do too many short (as mentioned in OM) trips and have watched my morning voltage decrease from 12.5V down to 12.2V in past four months,
if it gets below 12, I will trickel charge again.

 

Sounds like a good idea. Thanks.

 

Just a heads up...

It looks like on my 2010 Clubman S that if you don't have an option, that circuit isn't powered.

For instance, the I don't have the Park Distance Control (F30 in this thread, F32 on my Clubman) nor the CD changer (F12 in this thread, F14 on my Clubman) and neither of those circuits are powered regardless of the state of the car.

 

So, if I want to set up my Sat radio to stay on for awhile (like the on board radio) after turning the car on I want to tap into F11? Would that be correct?

 

thanks for showing me this thread- Robin.

anyone know where the fuse is for the interior lights? trying to hook up some LEDs under the car to come on when i unlock the car and when i start the car they can fade out like the interior lights do.

i have read this thread and is it Fuse F20 that might work? or F2 or F10?

thanks for the help.

 

Can I just pull the fuse (F26) for the alarm siren/ tilt sensor to silence the alarm without affecting anything else ?

 

I posted this elsewhere, probably the wrong place so I'll ask it here since this seems to be the "Fuse Thread" LOL.

Where is the fuse that controls the Cruise Control, and secondarily... where is the cruise control module itself? I have the MFSW, heated seats, stereo controls, no bluetooth (arghhh!), and nothing happens when I try the CC buttons. I assume a light would pop on in the dash modules. And I've tried it in various gears (3rd/4th/5th/6th) with no response. Would the position of the sport suspension button have any effect? Now, I bought my car used and never checked the MFSW, so is there a chance that I _don't_ have CC?

And boy... I have never see so many fuses in one car.

 

The Multi Function Steering Wheel (MFSW) has all the controls whether they are used or not.

In other words if the car was ordered with cruse but bot bluetooth the bluetooth controls would still be there

or

if the car woas ordered with bluetooth control and not with CC then the CC controls would still be there but the actual module that controls the CC would not.

So what you need to do is find out if the car is equiped with CC. You can call you dealer or MINI USA with the VIN and they can tell you if it is installed or not. If it is not then the controls will not work.

 

For got to answer yoru actual question.

It is F15 in the footwell.

F15 is power for the Steerign Column Switch Cluster (SZL Module).

If this Fuse is bad then many ohter items would not work as well such as

1. head lights
2. signal lights
3. high beam control
4. windshild washers

Just aboaut anything that has a switch function on the steering column.

So if all of that is working then most likely the car does not have CC installed.

 

I can't seem to find a single fuse to tap into at the passenger side foot fuse panel of my '11 R56 that has 12v switched power associated with inserting/removing the key fob (i.e., a true ACC circuit).

I was getting frustrated testing circuits at the fuse panel with the multimeter, as it seemed like fuse after fuse was hot even with no key fob inserted. Then I studied Posts #1 and #2 in this thread and, if I'm interpreting them correctly, all of the switched circuits are activated by the Car Access System (CAS) and not the key fob! This won't work for me -- I don't want my aftermarket gauges to power up when I unlock the doors and stay on for 30 minutes after I lock.

And another thing: if the sunroof and seat heater fuses are activated by the CAS (and my multimeter agrees that they're hot without the fob inserted), why don't the sunroof and seat heater switches operate their respective functions unless the key fob is inserted?

I'm no EE, so any guidance/education appreciated.

 

Probably because they don't want the high current draw to drain the battery.

 

I have installed an aftermarket radio and spliced to center cigar lighter (terminal 15). Obviously this is not a good power source because all the presets on the new radio RESET themselves like installing for the first time everytime I start the car after 30 minutes.
My question is, should I choose a switched continuous + line or a continuous line for power?

 

I have to say that I'm confused (a fairly common state of mind for me).

I'm adding an aftermarket XM tuner. I'd like it to shut off just like my radio (base model) when I lock the car. I have a 2010 R57s (convertible) with Bluetooth/iPod and no Nav. The fuse layout is somewhat different than the R56, but I've attached the tuner with an Add-A-Fuse to both 15 and the 30G fuses, and the XM doesn't seem to turn off when I lock the car. Right now it's attached to F13 (Radio). Can someone suggest which fuse (give me a number and use, please) to attach the tuner to so that it shuts off when the car is locked?

Attached is a photo of my fuse layout.

Many Thanks!

Larry

 

F32 should work well for you if it is powered. You want something off terminal 15.

 

Unfortunately, that's where I have my Radar detector, but I'll try another 15. Any suggestions?

Thanks!

 

In that case, maybe try F12.

 

I'll try it tomorrow, but if I recall when I tested them on the 15, it wasn't powered when the engine wasn't running and the radio was on. It was like the cigarette lighter-no power unless the engine was on. II want something that is powered on the equivalent of ACC, if there is something.

Thanks

 

I know this is late, but I used F34, the "Mirror Adjustment Switch/Seat Heating Module", on my 2010 Clubman for my Valentine1. Switched on and off with the engine and never had a minute's problem with it.

I'll be doing the same with my 2012 Coupe this weekend.

 

Xeraux, what fuse did you end up using? I'm having issues finding a fuse to use.

EDIT: Nevermind.. You mentioned it like 3 different times F34.

 

I have a 2008 Clubman and fuse 42, the cigar lighter, has no power to it. It was working fine until Saturday and it just quit. Fuses 41 and 43 still have power to them. Any idea of what might be wrong?

 

Is there a similar list for an R50?...can't find one anywhere!

 

If anybody is out there and knows, I'm looking for a source that comes on on the key unlock command, and stays on while the car is running. (I have a radar detector w/GPS and want to let it search as long as possible before I get in)

Preferably on a standard size fuse, not the smaller ones, (already bought the add-a-fuse in that size.) but if that is the only way I'll buy another.

Thanks.

 

this is s good read, just fixed Fuse 42 and cigeratte lighters are working again