Is the issue particular to the R53? R52 same issue a presume?

What are the effect of non-dampening cranks? any potential to damage other parts connected to the belt (ie alternator, oil pump, etc.?

Thanks!

 

I'm a newb here (just bought my R53 last month). What are the signs of the crank pulley beginning to fail? Any certain sounds?

 

well I found this thread which listed a few things to look/listen for.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...y-failure.html

 

Actually just picked one up last week from WMW and had it installed yesterday.

Im so glad i choose this path over a light weight crank pulley. Many people are running light weight crank pulleys, they might not have an issues and never will but in the long run the bearings will show exessive wear.

This is a 10000000x better replacment then an OEM crank pulley which will most likely fail again down the road. Theres another reason why i choose this pulley over the OEM and light weight crank pulleys, but unfortunallty ive swarn to secrecy not to tell anyone!

But trust me if you have to replace your OEM pulley this is the "Way" to go.

 

It's been an issue with all R52 or R53 Cooper S Crank pulleys.

I've taken apart engines that had lightweight crank pulleys and found the bearing to look like they had 500k on them. So I don't use or recommend them.

Many times they just fail without warning. Sometimes you can get belt noise from them before they fail.

 

Way -- Any advantage doing one of these at the same time as a SC pulley?

 

I'm not Way, but here would be the advanatge's.

1. More boost then just having the 15%, i gained 1lb, i am now at 15.5
2. Your already in there reducing the labor cost.
3. Your OEM harmonic balancer is going to die sooner or later.

 

+1 on the advantages.

Much of the time to swap the pulleys is getting the wheel liner off and back on due to the plastic clips that tend to strip out. Once the belt is already off, it does not take that much time to pull off the stock crankshaft pulley and install the ATI pulley.

 

Cool; good to know... though that means having to save up a little bit more before either is done, unfortunately.

 

do you need a tool when changing this tnx

 

Yes, you do need a tool to replace the crank pulley.
You need a pulley puller such as:
http://www.harborfreight.com/46-piec...set-37824.html
Along with the puller tool I purchased 3 hardened bolts to hold the puller to the pulley and a 12mm bolt to thread into the pulley center hole for the puller tool to push against.
You also need a tool to remove the belt.

 

I'm sure this has been asked/answered many times elsewhere, but....

If the net result is equivalent, what would be the relative advantages/disadvantages of running:

a) +2% ATI crank pulley in combination with -15% SC pulley

vs.

b) "0%" ATI crank pulley in combination with a -17% SC pulley

 

I really cannot see the difference.

But the real question comes in terms of adjustbility. Say you dropped a 15% pulley, and you want more. instead of buying a new pulley and going through the pain of replacing it, you can simply change the crank with +2% and you end up with a 17% pulley net with a much simpler install (and without the need of specialized tools either).

From what I've read if you auto cross or track your car a 19% reduction and even a 17% reduction might over exert your car. So if you decide to put a 17% Net combination for street, and change it back to a 15% by swapping the crank you have that flexibility ...again without going through the hassle of swapping SC pulleys.

But for daily driving, there is really no difference. I hope that helps.

 

Also even though the ATI says its a 0% pulley, its actually a 0.980 or some number like that. So its almost a +1%, Way could give you the exact numbers. Prior to installing the ATI 0% i was almost hitting 15lbs (14.8) of boost with a 15% pulley. Once i added the ATI i am know hitting 15.5. so basically if you have the 15% and the ATI 0% (more like a +1) you end up with a 16% reduction. But the big benefit here is a better damper then OEM (the oem will fail sooner or later).

 

and they will fail, this is what happened to my OEM, when i took the belt off it fell into three pieces.

 

Cole, are you saying that your dampener fell apart when you changed the belt? Did I get that right...how many miles did you have when that happened?

 

about 60k miles when this happened. I was able to drive it home after it let go, about 25 miles at 40 miles an hour in limp mode. the rubber that connects the two sides of the pulley broke, but would still grab on itself and not spin unless i gave it two many revs, or turned the ac on. with two many revs/the ac on, the resistance from the accessories would overcome the rubber causing it to spin on itself and go into limp mode.

After i got home i checked it out and saw that the dampener wasn't right, so i took the belt off, and was Able to pull half the pulley of by hand. the rubber was no longer connected to either side of the pulley

 

I think so; thanks! (Though I suppose one difference is an extra $26 to Way for the +2% )

In my specific case, I've got a daily driver that doesn't see any track or auto-x time, so I guess getting to 17% either way should be fine.As they say, six of one, half-dozen of the other....

Man, that old crank pulley looks scary!

 

Finally got a chance to do some poking around; looks like ZippyNH has weighed in on this question in a couple of threads, including the following:

Just one man's take, of course, but I haven't yet seen anything to contradict it.

Given the above I'm personally leaning towards sticking w. the "0%"/-17% combo, but thought I'd at least follow up with some pros and cons since I asked the question in the first place.

 

i have the same i ordered 17% pulley package from way an ati damper jcw injectors hopefully will be able to put it in the car soon. post ur feedback when u have done this tnx

 

Labor time is less to do them together
The belt will tension a little tighter since it's slightly larger.
It won't fail later like the OEM will.
It's lighter than the OEM

The stock size ATI damper is actually .8% larger than stock, reason is the design of the damper can't be made any smaller due to the internal weight size. Our WMW 2% oversize ATI is 2% larger than a stock damper. Now just remember that is 2% on the crank, that does NOT equal 2% on the supercharger. With the stock size ATI the most boost increase I've seen is .5lbs. With the 2% I expect the most you'll see is 1.5lbs more.

 

Way is there a relationship for the laymen that translates psi into WHP? So that 1.5 psi gain would translate into what WHP?

In terms of wear and Tear....how much more does that 2% decrease puts on the engine as a system?

Thanks!!!

 

There are too many variables to do that like head, injector, exhaust, tuning, cam, intercooler and so on.

 

Thanks, Way!

I guess I'm still confused as to the relative advantages/disadvantages of 0%/17% vs. 2%/15%; for a daily driver (automatic) which combo would you recommend?