Sorry to ignore your adaptives suggestion, I just don't really know anything about it.

I guess I can try it.

I am wondering if I did something wrong with the install of the pulley and mounts, but everything seems to be working fine. The pulley whines beautifully and like I said the mounts really help with the engine movement. It's just this sluggishness that has me stumped. I wonder if something snapped when I lifted the engine.

Let me ask you all this - is it normal to be able to turn the front wheels left and right fairly easily when the front end is on jack stands? I noticed I was able to turn the front wheels easily left to right and back again, and I could also spin them freely even though the parking brake was on and it was in gear... Normal stuff or is something broken?

 

So, are you saying that we shouldn't be seeing our rearview mirror vibrate? I'm rather dissatisfied with your disclaimer without providing any indication to the degree of vibration expected.

 

I had my TSW motor mount installed yesterday and I am amazed at how much it amplified the noises my car makes. The vibrations are livable and my car has a Newman cam in it. At lower RPMs I do notice that my rearview is useless. I haven't tried adjusting anything yet and looking forward to the mount becoming a little more flexible. I did order a OBX header so I should be able to kill the vibration issue with LOUD NOISES!

 

I removed my TSW Motor Mount on Monday and I am so happy that I did. Having a quiet, vibration free car is more important to me than the firmer feeling at the wheels. I haven't noticed that much difference with the OEM but with a Sprint Booster it's just fine.
After removing the TSW Motor Mount, I did realize that there is a direct metal to metal contact of the wishbone to the strut tower. It leads me to believe that if there was a cushioning gasket, poly insert (as others have attempted) there would be reduced or eliminated vibration. I thought of trying to find a gasket or two (Oh, maybe even some cheese) to try it out but then thought the manufacturer should find the remedy for us.
Good luck Guys!

 

Sorry but there is no way to disclaim how much vibration if any each person may experience. Everyone has a different threshold, so people think its fine, while another person will get in that same car and think it's unbearable. And it's car dependent, some cars rattle more than others it's just a fact. So there is no way to say how YOU will feel about it. If I told every customer it will rattle bad, many customers would say it's fine. But if I told them it will barely rattle, many customers would say it's way too much. I can't win either way.
Facts are:
Yes it's harder than stock
Yes it will out perform the stock one
Yes it will last longer than stock
Yes it can cause vibrations due to design
It's up to each customer to decide if they like it or not. Since I've sold hundreds of them and only a handful have thought it was too hard, I have to go with the majority.

 

I have the vibration, but I also have what seems to me like sluggishness. Something isn't right. It's like my car has a cold... I am thinking vacuum leak.

Sound video here:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zb0-p...dNwDU0nnirNOWc=

don't know if it will help any... with the new texting law I was a bit paranoid, but this isn't just added NVH from the mounts. It's something I can feel in the throttle.

 

oh, and that sound you hear at the beginning? It's much worse if I take the duct tape out of the area between the dash and the windshield.

 

You can see how at the very next traffic light I come to the vibration is completely gone. But I can still feel a sluggishness in the acceleration and throttle response, especially in the sub 2K range...

 

First, I'm trying to understand what is expected. You say "Yes it can cause vibrations due to design", I want to know to what degree t his is expected. So I'll ask again, is it expected that all else being stock the rear-view mirror would vibrate significantly around say 2500rpm? If it's not expected then I'm going to keep investigating what the cause is. If it is expected then I'm going to ask for my money back because that to me is unacceptable and was not advertised.

Second, perhaps other customers didn't complain because they felt stupid for spending twice as much money on something that is rather unusable. I know right now that I fit in that category. Perhaps it's a fine part for people who really only care about performance, but for daily driving, and everyone who has been in my car agrees, it's simply not okay as-is.

 

here she is after my morning commute. quiet as a mouse on idle, but still a bit sluggish accelerating at low RPMs and from a stop. annoying!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZVZQ1...NwDU0nnirNOWc=

I'm guessing this is NOT mount related, but more likely a vacuum leak somewhere. I am also guessing the leak may have been exasperated by jacking up the engine. Anyone know some good places to look? If not I will try starting a new thread to see if anyone else has had this issue.

 

If anyone wants to buy my barely used (about 300 miles) TSW motor mount (04-06 version) drop me a private message.

 

Just installed the TSW upper engine mount and BSH lower engine mount. Vibrations as expected but I love it. I love the feel of the car and how it handles. It puts down the power better than before. I have to say it feels like what the classic Mini's must feel like to drive. It is a solid ride and is a blast. As for vibrations, get rid of the loose crap in the interior that is bouncing around, noise dampening material can help, and using your stereo for music if you so desire like I do. Otherwise, excellent product and am very happy I installed it (Or I should say, a good friend who knew what he was doing installed it). Way, It might be a cool idea to package the TSW and BSH together in a package set. I think the people experiencing excessive vibration haven't replaced the lower mount.

 

I know what you're experiencing first hand. I had Way install both passenger side motor mounts on my 2004 R53 at the 2012 MOTD. I didn't know that there would be a "long term" vibration issue. I will say that it has eased up a bit over the past few weeks . . . but it's still there. If it weren't for this forum I would have no clue as to what was causing this new dash/mirror vibration/rattle. I have not yet tried to make any adjustments . . . but can see from other's comments that it may be simpler to just replace the lower mount with original equipment so that I (and my passengers) can return to a vibration free ride.

 

I bought these mounts some time ago and I think all they did was expose problems. My vibration issues seem to REALLY be coming from a failing crankshaft pulley, which when replaced has drastically reduced my vibration.

I believe the remaining vibration I have is from a failed dual-mass flywheel. I noticed when I can't see out my rear view mirror because of vibration, when I put my foot down on the clutch, the mirror stays still, becoming clear again...

I will be working on a clutch/flywheel replacement this summer and will report back with my findings... But the crank shaft pulley GREATLY reduced the vibrations for me. I used the ATI superdamper.

 

If you wanted a car with no vibration, smooth ride, and zero quirks, you bought the wrong car. The vibrations have smoothed out since installing my TSW and BSH mounts. Only rattle I have is a loose downtube which has been fixed. Problem solved.

These mounts are Performance engine mounts. They are built to last longer than stock. The stock ones will give you a smooth ride but will fail after 20,000 miles if you're lucky. The TSW and BSH should never have to be replaced.

 

I wanted to post a follow-up to my original reply. It's been several months now since I had the TSW style mount installed and (drum roll please) . . . . the vibrations have almost completely gone away AND the associated rattles are no more!!

At least for my car, it just took a while for the mounts to "settle in".

 

Mine also became slightly milder after a month and that "right now engagement feel"...I am still liking it.

 

About 2 weeks ago, I replaced my original upper and lower mounts with the VT Road. I must say the build quality was incredible. When I try to gauge vibration on both they seem to isolate very well. I also did the powerflex inserts for the transmission mount and the top rear mount. That may have been overkill as I'm getting crazy NVH at idle between 900 and 1200 RPM. Turning off A/C Helps as well as shifting into neutral.

Now here's the question. Am I really getting any benefit from the upper inserts with the new VT mount? Will taking them out make a big difference in isolation or should I just wait longer for them to settle? Likewise, for the transmission mount inserts, I was thinking of just getting some fresh rubber stops (the little wing pieces you take out) or trying the hitemp silicone method.

Any opinions from someone who has used the VT mounts?

 

can anyone comment on the TSW upper and BSH lower mounts, versus using poweflex inserts on the oem mounts?

i am going to purchase one route or the other. just wondering what everyone else thinks.

 

I'm looking into replacing my R53 mounts. It looks like there should be:

1 Passenger side top mount.
1 Lower mount.
1 Transmission mount.

3 Total?

 

Old thread, I know. But there is no other place online to find information on this
I've been having the same sort of wobble at higher gears around the 2000-3000 rpm range. The shop tells me I need an entirely new transmission because the differential is broken and is causing the wobble. This is not a specific shop and this guy doesn't know much about R53s. I wish I had a dedicated shop in my area. The driver side axle and tie rod were both replaced to little avail. The vibrations got better, but they're still there. I had them replace the pass engine mount today and they told me it's no different. I haven't driven the car yet to confirm, but if it still is the same, what even are my other options? Is the possibility of the diff even worthwhile? They say it's cheaper to source and install an entirely new trans than to just 'rebuild it' because that replaces the diff. I'm no mechanic, but this just sounds like baloney to me.

 

Sounds like you need a mechanic to do some more diagnosis. Vibrations rarely come from the trans.
I've never seen an R53 diff fail, I have seen them fail in the R50 and I can tell you when they do and it moves around in a way that would cause a vibration the axle seals will leak. So if you don't have leaking axle seals and since it's an R53 I wouldn't bet on the trans/diff being the issue.

 

Thanks for the quick reply. The tech said this: "I did notice that a transmission output bearing had play in it, I suspect this is our vibration issue. The transmission can be either rebuilt, or replaced, I do not rebuild transmissions in house. This is why I recommended a transmission, there should NO play in transmission outputs."

Another thing to note, after the engine mount was replaced, I brought it home and it the wobble was actually worse at first. Let the car sit, drove it again, wobble was pretty much gone. Gave it some beans, then the wobble was suddenly back again.

Drove the car after letting it sit once more, and the wobble is back but not super bad like it was at first.

Maybe they installed the mount incorrectly? I really have no idea at this point. Here's a before and after. The new one looks kinda weird to me. I'm no mechanic but it just looks weird.

 

Are these TSW mounts still available for 06 models?

 

Get one of these and be done with it.
https://www.vibra-technics.co.uk/min...53_12_03_07_06
The .co.uk site will net you a better price than the .com site.