R50 R52 R53 Replacement Motor Mount
this is the one you need for an 05-06
http://www.waymotorworks.com/tsw-eng...6-r50-r53.html
I've replaced my 2005's mount with the TSW/WMW mount following the instructions (which I found searching the web -- they really ought to be posted on way's website). I too am experiencing excessive vibration, so I've been researching solutions to this problem. Here's a summary of what I've found so far:
1) Dog bone connector may be misaligned
2) Engine Oil level may be low
3) Lower motor mount may be worn out
4) Use vibration dampening material to absorb the new vibrations
What I haven't found is people writing good descriptions of the type of vibration they have.
For me, the vibration starts around 2000-2250 RPM (this seems to change a bit based on how warm the engine is) and stops around 2750 RPM. There is no excess vibrations at idle or at higher RPMs -- but of course most of my daily driving is right in the sweet spot of the vibration. The vibration causes the interior dash to resonate such that the vibrations are quite unacceptable, as well as the rear view mirror vibrating. It's bad enough that I occasionally change the way I drive to avoid the vibrations.
I have checked the dog bone connection; it is tension free.
I haven't checked the engine oil level, but I have no reason to believe it to be low -- but will check this out soon since it's easy.
I did replace my lower motor mount about 12000 miles ago, but it is possible that it has worn faster than normal because the upper motor mount did leak and I noticed difficulty shifting while the engine was cold for some time. It isn't clear to me what type of vibration I would expect from a worn out lower mount, and I don't really want to spend the money on one unless there is a good chance it will make a notable improvement.
I'm not keen on using vibration dampening material as a solution and I hesitate to think it would be enough to completely solve my vibration problems. I am looking into it as a supplement to another fix and to improve overall driving experience.
At this point I wouldn't recommend the TSX/WMW mount to anyone; as other's have mentioned it isn't that difficult to replace the OEM mounts and they are significantly cheaper. Perhaps if someone has a suggestion on what I can do to correct my vibration problems I'd revise my recommendation.
1) Dog bone connector may be misaligned
2) Engine Oil level may be low
3) Lower motor mount may be worn out
4) Use vibration dampening material to absorb the new vibrations
What I haven't found is people writing good descriptions of the type of vibration they have.
For me, the vibration starts around 2000-2250 RPM (this seems to change a bit based on how warm the engine is) and stops around 2750 RPM. There is no excess vibrations at idle or at higher RPMs -- but of course most of my daily driving is right in the sweet spot of the vibration. The vibration causes the interior dash to resonate such that the vibrations are quite unacceptable, as well as the rear view mirror vibrating. It's bad enough that I occasionally change the way I drive to avoid the vibrations.
I have checked the dog bone connection; it is tension free.
I haven't checked the engine oil level, but I have no reason to believe it to be low -- but will check this out soon since it's easy.
I did replace my lower motor mount about 12000 miles ago, but it is possible that it has worn faster than normal because the upper motor mount did leak and I noticed difficulty shifting while the engine was cold for some time. It isn't clear to me what type of vibration I would expect from a worn out lower mount, and I don't really want to spend the money on one unless there is a good chance it will make a notable improvement.
I'm not keen on using vibration dampening material as a solution and I hesitate to think it would be enough to completely solve my vibration problems. I am looking into it as a supplement to another fix and to improve overall driving experience.
At this point I wouldn't recommend the TSX/WMW mount to anyone; as other's have mentioned it isn't that difficult to replace the OEM mounts and they are significantly cheaper. Perhaps if someone has a suggestion on what I can do to correct my vibration problems I'd revise my recommendation.
Installed new TSW mount today...took a little while to get things aligned. Started up and has slight hv... but not as much as I expected . The real eye opener came on the 1st shift... this is how I wanted the shifter to feel all along...smooth and positive. The car is much more responsive , even if it vib's a little. I think I will drive a couple of wks and check and locktight the dogbone.
Over the last two wks I have made so many positive changes it's like having a new shifter gokart!!!! I like that!!!
Over the last two wks I have made so many positive changes it's like having a new shifter gokart!!!! I like that!!!
vibs
ddiepo
Neutral
I had a bad Rubber mount on exhaust that I replaced today.[ found it when installing new exhaust] The new mount took almost all of the hv out. I think would be worth the time to check...[don't break off a stud...makes it a lot harder job] ha
Neutral
I had a bad Rubber mount on exhaust that I replaced today.[ found it when installing new exhaust] The new mount took almost all of the hv out. I think would be worth the time to check...[don't break off a stud...makes it a lot harder job] ha
Is this vibration coming from the mount itself or the wishbone. I installed this mount last week and the vibration is killing me. It seems as though the passenger side is most affected with a buzz from behind the glove box and both door panels. Rear view mirror is useless at around 2500 rpm.
Would a rubber or poly gasket between the wishbone and fender mounting position cut down the engine vibration to the body of the car? The increased feeling of power to the wheels is amazing but I want a quiet car as well and this is not doing it for me.
Would a rubber or poly gasket between the wishbone and fender mounting position cut down the engine vibration to the body of the car? The increased feeling of power to the wheels is amazing but I want a quiet car as well and this is not doing it for me.
rubber biscut
Drink 8648,, I had same thought as dogbone has no side load. I haven't found exactly what I want yet but I did put a 1/4in thick rubber rubber biscuit next to shock tower. With that rubber and the new exhaust rubber mounts I am almost back to hv level pre TSW mount. The TSW mount seems exaggerate exhaust hanger problems! No hv at idle and just a little tingle thru that 2350 to 3000 rev range... hope this helps..
Why is it that the users brainstorm the solution to a problem that has existed for to long. And, if the manufacturer doesn't feel that there is a need to remedy a cause and effect to a replacement part that had no HV at all, then they should pull it off the market till there is more R&D.
......The increased feeling of power to the wheels is amazing but .....
hm...do you wany some cheeses with that?! Lol welcome to world of modding. No such thing as a free lunch. All changes have ramifications.
Every mod has plusses and minuses...
I will tell you that some folks find the mount loosee up a bit with a few months age, and most folk find it becomes a bit more livable...but every mod changes the car a bit...pulley adds power and whine....exaust adds rumble and power...CAI adds mostly sound, and a trivial amount of power....
The person who buys the mod must make sure it is right for them....
hm...do you wany some cheeses with that?! Lol welcome to world of modding. No such thing as a free lunch. All changes have ramifications.
Every mod has plusses and minuses...
I will tell you that some folks find the mount loosee up a bit with a few months age, and most folk find it becomes a bit more livable...but every mod changes the car a bit...pulley adds power and whine....exaust adds rumble and power...CAI adds mostly sound, and a trivial amount of power....
The person who buys the mod must make sure it is right for them....
Drink 8648,, I had same thought as dogbone has no side load. I haven't found exactly what I want yet but I did put a 1/4in thick rubber rubber biscuit next to shock tower. With that rubber and the new exhaust rubber mounts I am almost back to hv level pre TSW mount. The TSW mount seems exaggerate exhaust hanger problems! No hv at idle and just a little tingle thru that 2350 to 3000 rev range... hope this helps..
I did check my engine oil level and surprisingly it was low, almost a quart -- quite a shock to me! It is about time to change it, but I don't have enough oil on hand to do that so I just topped it off to test out the vibration -- it helped maybe a little, but not nearly enough. I don't mind a little added vibration, but if it causes rattles and vibration on the rear view mirror it is too much.
hv
I am not satisfied with the rubber yet... it is i think a grommet insert, It was the best I found at hardware store.
The exhaust was one of the bolt on muffler rubber mounts and one slip on rubber hanger . The TSW mount seemed go down the pipe and cause some hv with those all wore out.
I do have some hv , but is at a level I can accept for improvements in response and shifting. ....this is a performance part, not oe replacement.
ps .. I am going to look at parts store for a better rubber , if I don't find anything better I'm ok.
The exhaust was one of the bolt on muffler rubber mounts and one slip on rubber hanger . The TSW mount seemed go down the pipe and cause some hv with those all wore out.
I do have some hv , but is at a level I can accept for improvements in response and shifting. ....this is a performance part, not oe replacement.
ps .. I am going to look at parts store for a better rubber , if I don't find anything better I'm ok.
I've replaced my 2005's mount with the TSW/WMW mount following the instructions (which I found searching the web -- they really ought to be posted on way's website). I too am experiencing excessive vibration, so I've been researching solutions to this problem. Here's a summary of what I've found so far:
1) Dog bone connector may be misaligned
2) Engine Oil level may be low
3) Lower motor mount may be worn out
4) Use vibration dampening material to absorb the new vibrations
What I haven't found is people writing good descriptions of the type of vibration they have.
For me, the vibration starts around 2000-2250 RPM (this seems to change a bit based on how warm the engine is) and stops around 2750 RPM. There is no excess vibrations at idle or at higher RPMs -- but of course most of my daily driving is right in the sweet spot of the vibration. The vibration causes the interior dash to resonate such that the vibrations are quite unacceptable, as well as the rear view mirror vibrating. It's bad enough that I occasionally change the way I drive to avoid the vibrations.
I have checked the dog bone connection; it is tension free.
I haven't checked the engine oil level, but I have no reason to believe it to be low -- but will check this out soon since it's easy.
I did replace my lower motor mount about 12000 miles ago, but it is possible that it has worn faster than normal because the upper motor mount did leak and I noticed difficulty shifting while the engine was cold for some time. It isn't clear to me what type of vibration I would expect from a worn out lower mount, and I don't really want to spend the money on one unless there is a good chance it will make a notable improvement.
I'm not keen on using vibration dampening material as a solution and I hesitate to think it would be enough to completely solve my vibration problems. I am looking into it as a supplement to another fix and to improve overall driving experience.
At this point I wouldn't recommend the TSX/WMW mount to anyone; as other's have mentioned it isn't that difficult to replace the OEM mounts and they are significantly cheaper. Perhaps if someone has a suggestion on what I can do to correct my vibration problems I'd revise my recommendation.
1) Dog bone connector may be misaligned
2) Engine Oil level may be low
3) Lower motor mount may be worn out
4) Use vibration dampening material to absorb the new vibrations
What I haven't found is people writing good descriptions of the type of vibration they have.
For me, the vibration starts around 2000-2250 RPM (this seems to change a bit based on how warm the engine is) and stops around 2750 RPM. There is no excess vibrations at idle or at higher RPMs -- but of course most of my daily driving is right in the sweet spot of the vibration. The vibration causes the interior dash to resonate such that the vibrations are quite unacceptable, as well as the rear view mirror vibrating. It's bad enough that I occasionally change the way I drive to avoid the vibrations.
I have checked the dog bone connection; it is tension free.
I haven't checked the engine oil level, but I have no reason to believe it to be low -- but will check this out soon since it's easy.
I did replace my lower motor mount about 12000 miles ago, but it is possible that it has worn faster than normal because the upper motor mount did leak and I noticed difficulty shifting while the engine was cold for some time. It isn't clear to me what type of vibration I would expect from a worn out lower mount, and I don't really want to spend the money on one unless there is a good chance it will make a notable improvement.
I'm not keen on using vibration dampening material as a solution and I hesitate to think it would be enough to completely solve my vibration problems. I am looking into it as a supplement to another fix and to improve overall driving experience.
At this point I wouldn't recommend the TSX/WMW mount to anyone; as other's have mentioned it isn't that difficult to replace the OEM mounts and they are significantly cheaper. Perhaps if someone has a suggestion on what I can do to correct my vibration problems I'd revise my recommendation.
Update: Fresh oil change, no change in vibration. I disconnected the dogbone connector, no change in vibration. I visually inspected the lower motor mount and did not see any signs of wear.
I also inspected the exhaust and muffler mounts, they all look fine.
At this point it seems my options are to go back to the OEM mount or to install vibration dampening material.
I replaced my upper and lower mounts today with a new pulley and my car is shaking so bad. My dash sounds like it wants to break apart. Did I over tighten stuff? What are the torque specs supposed to be?!
Is this vibration coming from the mount itself or the wishbone. I installed this mount last week and the vibration is killing me. It seems as though the passenger side is most affected with a buzz from behind the glove box and both door panels. Rear view mirror is useless at around 2500 rpm.
Would a rubber or poly gasket between the wishbone and fender mounting position cut down the engine vibration to the body of the car? The increased feeling of power to the wheels is amazing but I want a quiet car as well and this is not doing it for me.
Would a rubber or poly gasket between the wishbone and fender mounting position cut down the engine vibration to the body of the car? The increased feeling of power to the wheels is amazing but I want a quiet car as well and this is not doing it for me.
For those with noises and vibrations I would say try to adjust the rod on the 04-06 version. I'd say less than 10% of people that buy these have too much vibration. Also for people with either version if any of your other engine mounts are bad you will get vibrations, but if that is the case replacing those mounts can fix it.
Remember this is a performance part it is suppose to hold the engine stiffer than the stock mount, so vibration can be a side effect.
Remember this is a performance part it is suppose to hold the engine stiffer than the stock mount, so vibration can be a side effect.
For those with noises and vibrations I would say try to adjust the rod on the 04-06 version. I'd say less than 10% of people that buy these have too much vibration. Also for people with either version if any of your other engine mounts are bad you will get vibrations, but if that is the case replacing those mounts can fix it.
Remember this is a performance part it is suppose to hold the engine stiffer than the stock mount, so vibration can be a side effect.
Remember this is a performance part it is suppose to hold the engine stiffer than the stock mount, so vibration can be a side effect.
I bought a 15% pulley package, an upper and lower motor. The car runs, and I expected more NVH - which is causing a major rattle which I will figure out and deal with.
But after a few runs last night, I am noticing that the car is sluggish to start out, and seems to really struggle in the very low RPM range. It never did this before. Could the belt be too tight? Could there be something else at play? I tried resetting the engine control unit last night and haven't had a chance to take it out again, but I wanted to pick your brain in case I am missing something. The hesitation seems to be related to what I did. Checked all vacuum hoses, intake hose and throttle body (the bypass valve is new - from Detroit Tuned) - everything looks OK.
The car idles fine once it warms up a bit, but when I take off from a stop it's a bit of a struggle, even after driving for a bit. This was of course before I reset the ECU so maybe there was a lean condition?
I have a code reader, but you can reset the ecu through the on board computer. You hit the odo reset button while turning the key to the on position. Choose option 19 the hit the odo again and choose option 21 to reset the ecu. Done it several times.
I already had colder spark plugs so I didn't swap them out so I cant figure out what else changed that's causing this issue... It felt like something on the passenger side was holding it back so maybe it is the mounts. I checked the torque specs again and retourqued everything, but still a bit rough at low rpm. I wont be able to drive it until later today to see if the resetting of the ecu worked.
I already had colder spark plugs so I didn't swap them out so I cant figure out what else changed that's causing this issue... It felt like something on the passenger side was holding it back so maybe it is the mounts. I checked the torque specs again and retourqued everything, but still a bit rough at low rpm. I wont be able to drive it until later today to see if the resetting of the ecu worked.
You should have the adaptives reset and you can not do that with any code reader or the reset buttons. Check your coil for corsion on one of the back terminals ( 3 & 4) and use sand paper to clean them.
It could also be a MAP or T-MAP sensor acting up.
Like I said before I am local to you so if you want me to rest your adaptives with my BavTech tool just PM me and let me know.
Also don't use cheap gas like Wawa or any 89 octane. try to use Shell or Sunoco 93, it's only a few cents more and is well worth it in our cars.
It could also be a MAP or T-MAP sensor acting up.
Like I said before I am local to you so if you want me to rest your adaptives with my BavTech tool just PM me and let me know.
Also don't use cheap gas like Wawa or any 89 octane. try to use Shell or Sunoco 93, it's only a few cents more and is well worth it in our cars.
I didn't hear anything when I was jacking up the engine, but is it possible that I broke something?
I will say that I did overtorque the upper motor mount at first because I read my Bentley manual wrong at first, but I corrected it immediately after I drove it. It didn't make much difference.
The ECU reset did nothing. The car is extremely harsh when started for the first time, but it is always sluggish at the start. Anything betweein 1-2k rpms is aweful. And as another poster said, the vibration is in the roof, causing the rearview to be fuzzy. It's like simulating driving drunk, and that's not an exaggeration. I don;t think this is a normal NVH increase. Something else is wrong.
Just checked my coil pack - all 4 posts are perfectly shiny. I replaced the wires when I first got the car and all posts were perfect then too. I re-seated all the plug wires on both ends and tried it again. Still rough in the low RPMs. It almost feels like there's a restriction somewhere. I can't explain it. But it is definitely connected to the throttle and I don't think it has anything to do with the mounts now.
The mounts work beautifully. Shifts are SOOO much more crisp. It eliminates having to compensate for the engine jumping forward. I didn't realize how adept i'd become at timing the shift until I eliminated the enginie movement. Now I am letting off the clutch a touch too late to engage the next gear in time... Akward.
The mounts work beautifully. Shifts are SOOO much more crisp. It eliminates having to compensate for the engine jumping forward. I didn't realize how adept i'd become at timing the shift until I eliminated the enginie movement. Now I am letting off the clutch a touch too late to engage the next gear in time... Akward.







