I have mostly seen oil pressure gauges on this site...but was wondering for those with oil temp gauges what your normal degree (F) reading is? Thanks!

 

I haven't had mine installed for long, but it seems to run around 140-180 idleing around town. Temp drops a bit on the highway (makes sense).

 

Mine seems to be holding at around 190 F or so.

I am wondering now if a oil pressure gauge would have been more informative?

 

I've opted for the oil pressure gauge.

Oil temperature will be moderated by the coolant temperature.......unless you're revving the snot out of it full time at temperatures above 100F. Anybody out there with the M7 180F thermostat with oil temperature readings?

Jeremy

 

I have the OEM oil temp gauge pod under the toggles, and it hovers around 212f, 100c - it will inch above that if pushed, and when it's cold enough, it never reaches 100c.

The above is commensurate with research done on this board and abroad.

mb

also - you want your oil to get to 212 deg f., especially in the cold months so you can burn (boil h20) off the moisture that gets in there. This is why short trips in the very cold = bad for oil.

 

Thanks for the note mbcoops!

Jeremy

 

Cool....keep up the posts guys. I changed my oil this weekend with a total shamefull event. Did not secure the oil filter housing all the way and purged all 5 new quarts of my brand new oil all over the garage floor. What a ***** to clean up....

 

i'm running a cooler from madness. my oil runs around 160 once it's warm . it'll go to 180 in town . and as high as 195- 200 when getting on it around town .i find the pressure stays up above normal until the oil is at about 150 then the pressure is normal . i'm also running a thermostat to the cooler from mocal as was recommended by some guys here at nam . it does tend to warm up quicker .

 

I have the autometer temp guage with the autometer sender mounted in the oil pan drain location.

During highway driving I see it hold around 170, If I am beating the car I see it get as high as 210F

I cant wait to see the result of flying down the dragon in second gear for 11 miles does to it...

 

Kitty litter to the rescue!

 

It was a disaster. What should have taken like 1.5 hours...took about 5 after clean up. Not to mention the cost of replacing the 5 qts of oil...especially the sweet stuff I bought.

 

Which hole on the oil heat exchanger does the oil come from, and which does it leave into? I want to know which side of the oil cooler plate to tap for my temp gauge. The other hole will be for pressure. My new Mocal oil cooler, thermostat, and Aeroquip lines & fittings should be here soon.

 

I would use a drain plug replacement for the oil temp. Mind seems to be working just fine. I will post a link tonight for the plug I bought.

 

I bought mine oil temp metric adapter from pepboys.com autometer part number 2267. It was $9.73 to my door. I plugged my oil temp gauge in where the drain plug was.

 

the hoses you see on the exchanger are coolant . for temp you can go stock and adapt to the oil pan; for pressure you can tee off the existing . or you can buy a cooler kit from mini madness and it's all right there for ya !!!!!!

 

How big is the sender for the oil temp gauge? Between the metric adaptor and the sender, it seems like a lot of stuff protruding from the rear of the oil pan.

 

What I ment was take off the stock heat exchanger, there are two holes that are in the block; a fore and an aft. One is the outlet, the other the inlet. I want to know which one is which so I can get oil temps after the oil has passed through my soon-to-be-here Mocal oil cooler.

 

the aft one is the outlet . if still sceptical you can disconect the coil pack and have someone watch while you bump the motor; the outlet will present itself.

 

I would say just under an inch sticks out of the oil pan. But i wasn't able to find another company that made a 1/8'' NPT TO M14X1.5 adapter when I needed it. I'm sure they are out there. I can try and snap a pic of the pan this weekend if it doesn't rain.

 

I installed my oil temp sender in the oil filter canister. Once the wiring connector is pulled off it does not interfere with normal oil filter R&R. My temps vary anywhere from about 180 while driving in winter/cool temps to 220-230 in hard driving conditions in warm weather (Dragon, etc). I also have a 'true' water temp gauge with the sender fited into the block drain plug hole. This temp reading tracks the OBDII-indicated temps by 1-2 degrees. Average mild-weather temp is about 200, going up to 205-210 in hot weather driving with a/c or hard driving.

Both gauges are Auto Meter full-sweep (270 degree) electric gauges, mounted in the MINI aux gauge housing behind the cupholders. Since I have a Nav-equipped car, I dont have any sort of temp gauge, even the limited standard gauge. I also have oil pressure and boost gauges mounted to the tach/speedo.

 

Does anyone know the size of the stock oil sender thread size? I am not able to tap new holes on the oil cooler plate due to clearance issues. I will instead get a T fitting and hook up the gauge pressure sender and the dummy light to the stock sender location. The oil temp gauge will go in the drain plug as per recomendations. Im sure oil circulates enough so that the temp difference between post "oil cooler" oil and "pan" oil is minimal.

 

UPS just delivered the stock O/P sender that I ordered for this very reason. Only $10. Thought I could use it to make sure I was getting the correct fittings for a DEFI O/P gauge. I'll try to get some numbers for ya on the threads.

 

Herbie,
I've been reading some of your other posts. I'm very interested in the MINI MADNESS oil cooler with the Setrab cooler. I here what you're saying about running a thermostat to make sure the oil gets up to temp before going through the cooler. Could you post some pics and details about the Madness install? I'm holding off on the purchase of my O/P gauge because I want to mount it to the Madness adapter plate.

With the adapter plate in place and a O/P sending unit attached ( DEFI). Are there any physical or electrical conflicts with the stock O/P sending unit when left in place?
Thanks

 

first i would recommend you get the entire kit from madness. it'll run you about 500.00 but it's easier than sourcing a setrab albeit bigger from another vendor. madness uses setrab too but one size lower than i bought . i went to the bottom of the bumper ;they go to the front of the a/c cooler . their directions are very good . just remember if you're gonna do the mocal thermostat ; the out going oil from the block is the hole to the rear . just double check me by bumping the starter with the coil disconected and someone watching to tell you which hole the oil came out . you will need to source a 45 degree fitting for the oil sender most likely ; as the filter canister gets in the way . if you're running another o/p gauge along with the original ; it's no problem . just get a different feed from the fuse box (don't splice into the same wire) . as they operate on resistance . putting them in series is a no no . it will be cool to see how your defies stack up against the stocker .

 

herbie, where did you mount the oil thermostat? I just did my Mocal oil cooler today, the thermostat ended up infront of the radiator on top. Its blockage effect would be minimal. Pics to come soon in a new thread.