Drivetrain (Cooper S) MINI Cooper S (R53) intakes, exhausts, pulleys, headers, throttle bodies, and any other modifications to the Cooper S drivetrain.

Drivetrain First Real Upgrades

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Old Feb 1, 2007 | 11:14 PM
  #1  
verveAbsolut's Avatar
verveAbsolut
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First Real Upgrades

Before I ask any questions, I'll present a short list of what I plan on picking up for my 2003 Cooper S in a quick, budgeted order:

$129 - M7 Technology Pulley (16%)
$129 - M7 Oil Catch Can
$109 - M7 Strut Tower Reinforcement Plates
$55 - "Shoe" Engine Damper
-----
$422 (excluding shipping and possible labor)

I don't have nor want to dump a load of money right now, so I've decided these are probably my top, most practical mods. Pulley for the extra power, catch can to keep it all operating at peak, plates for no more warranty work (which I'm soon to be out of), and the damper (to stiffen it all up). Thought this would be the most to go, aside from some new lightweight wheels next (those 17", 25lb stocks are nasty), while I wait to see if I'd prefer the M62 vs. Compound-Charging vs. Straight Turbo routes.

Now, as for questions:


1) Should the installation of the 16% pulley require larger injectors? I know the JCW comes with a 14.7% and larger injectors; I'd like to get everyone's opinion as to whether larger injectors are a must or not. I'd rather not go over the duty cycle, or even worse lean it out too much. Thoughts?

2) Again, would the use of the pulley or the damper in any way prohibit the use of a twincharging kit (to which I am leaning)? I would take the necessary precautions/additions should I go that route; I'm solely wondering if the pulley or damper, on their own, would prevent me from doing this in the future.

Thanks in advance,

Matt
 
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Old Feb 1, 2007 | 11:41 PM
  #2  
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Answers to your questions:
1) no. larger injectors are not required for the pulley
2) i don't think so. the Shoe damper is cheap and easy to install and remove. Doesn't have to be a consideration for your future plans. Can't see how the pulley will matter to twincharging.

Answers you didn't ask for:
a) you don't really need an oil catch can
b) to enjoy the pulley to its fullest, get a larger air box. This really should be on your list. It's easy and makes a big difference. Besides, you'd want pulley and air box in order to best use larger injectors
c) you'll be surprised at how good the difference is with Shoe damper. Saved me the added expense of a short shifter
d) there is a lot of discussion about value of strut tower plates. I've got the M7 bar and plates. Got them used at good price. They don't hurt. They make a positive difference to me.
 
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Old Feb 2, 2007 | 12:15 AM
  #3  
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a) you don't really need an oil catch can
Just curious, why do you say the catch can is not needed? I know it won't do much in the way of performance, but it will help in keeping everything clean and functional...important criteria to me.

Also, thanks very much for the advice for the injectors.
 
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Old Feb 2, 2007 | 12:28 AM
  #4  
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I did testing on ICs...

clean vs dirty, thermal coatings etc. You do get a benefit from having the IC core clean, it's just not much at all. While there are a gazillion of happy OCC owners out there, there are a few who've had problems, for whatever reason, that have been quite messy. So it's a personal risk/reward decision. Also, who's to say that a light coating of oil on the inside of the supercharger isn't a bad thing? I really have no clue here.....

Matt
 
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Old Feb 2, 2007 | 12:40 AM
  #5  
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Q: "Just curious, why do you say the catch can is not needed?"
A: Many of the guys that have them don't catch anything. A few do, but most don't. I've seen a few that have been on Minis for 3 to 4 years and they still look brand new because they haven't ever collected oil. Many more guys that don't have them, enjoy many thousands of trouble free and pleasurable driving
 
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Old Feb 2, 2007 | 09:38 AM
  #6  
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From: OBX, NC
Originally Posted by verveAbsolut
Before I ask any questions, I'll present a short list of what I plan on picking up for my 2003 Cooper S in a quick, budgeted order:

$129 - M7 Technology Pulley (16%)
$129 - M7 Oil Catch Can
$109 - M7 Strut Tower Reinforcement Plates
$55 - "Shoe" Engine Damper
-----
$422 (excluding shipping and possible labor)

I don't have nor want to dump a load of money right now, so I've decided these are probably my top, most practical mods. Pulley for the extra power, catch can to keep it all operating at peak, plates for no more warranty work (which I'm soon to be out of), and the damper (to stiffen it all up). Thought this would be the most to go, aside from some new lightweight wheels next (those 17", 25lb stocks are nasty), while I wait to see if I'd prefer the M62 vs. Compound-Charging vs. Straight Turbo routes.

Now, as for questions:


1) Should the installation of the 16% pulley require larger injectors? I know the JCW comes with a 14.7% and larger injectors; I'd like to get everyone's opinion as to whether larger injectors are a must or not. I'd rather not go over the duty cycle, or even worse lean it out too much. Thoughts?

2) Again, would the use of the pulley or the damper in any way prohibit the use of a twincharging kit (to which I am leaning)? I would take the necessary precautions/additions should I go that route; I'm solely wondering if the pulley or damper, on their own, would prevent me from doing this in the future.

Thanks in advance,

Matt
Hey Matt,

Don't forget another real important upgrade which is attending a HPDE school to get the most from your Mini.

DJD
 
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Old Feb 2, 2007 | 01:15 PM
  #7  
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Thanks for the responses guys; it's made me re-research and check over things regarding the catch-can.

That aside, one thing I definitely forgot to ask was whether a new S/C belt would be a good idea. 15% would not be an issue, 17%+ I see it's normally recommended...what's the "cut-off," per se, as to when a smaller belt is a good idea?

- Matt
 
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Old Feb 2, 2007 | 02:14 PM
  #8  
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Hey verve Absolut,
Just got an idea. There are quite a few guys that have made their own catch cans for far less money than those available commercially. Execuations range from cobbled to professional. You might want to do some searches on NAM for these examples.

I've also thought a little more about my suggestion to increase air box size with a smaller diameter pulley. I can't emphasize this need strongly enough. If you use the stock box, you may choke off the faster spinning supercharger. It may not do any real damage, but it'll keep you from enjoying the pulley's benefits. There have been one or two guys on this forum that saw no difference with their new pulley until they uncorked the intake.

I think the cut-off for pulley reduction while using the OEM belt is 15%. Some of the other guys will tell us if this is right or wrong.
 
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Old Feb 2, 2007 | 04:18 PM
  #9  
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Belts are cheap...

so might as well change it while you're in there. The way to tell is how much travel you have left in your tensioner. Look to see how close to the tensioner stop you are. I think when you use a belt tool to remove a belt, there are two holes in the metal. I'd think with a new belt you'd want to see at least a full hole, but I'm not really sure. The trade off you have is two-fold.
1) If there's less distance to the stop with the belt when new, the time to stretch to an unacceptable length...
2) If you start with the tensioner less compressed, the frictional force holding the belt onto the pulleys is reduced. This can lead to slippage... less boost and less water pump.

Conventional wisdome says anything over a 15% reduction should have a smaller belt..... If you search you can find all the belt part numbers from all the manufacturers. only comment I have is that the gatorback belt is noisey! Some like it, my wife didn't so there you go, it's off the car.

Matt
 
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Old Feb 2, 2007 | 04:25 PM
  #10  
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Originally Posted by verveAbsolut
Before I ask any questions, I'll present a short list of what I plan on picking up for my 2003 Cooper S in a quick, budgeted order:

$129 - M7 Technology Pulley (16%)
$129 - M7 Oil Catch Can
$109 - M7 Strut Tower Reinforcement Plates
$55 - "Shoe" Engine Damper
-----
$422 (excluding shipping and possible labor)

I don't have nor want to dump a load of money right now, so I've decided these are probably my top, most practical mods. Pulley for the extra power, catch can to keep it all operating at peak, plates for no more warranty work (which I'm soon to be out of), and the damper (to stiffen it all up). Thought this would be the most to go, aside from some new lightweight wheels next (those 17", 25lb stocks are nasty), while I wait to see if I'd prefer the M62 vs. Compound-Charging vs. Straight Turbo routes.

Now, as for questions:


1) Should the installation of the 16% pulley require larger injectors? I know the JCW comes with a 14.7% and larger injectors; I'd like to get everyone's opinion as to whether larger injectors are a must or not. I'd rather not go over the duty cycle, or even worse lean it out too much. Thoughts?

2) Again, would the use of the pulley or the damper in any way prohibit the use of a twincharging kit (to which I am leaning)? I would take the necessary precautions/additions should I go that route; I'm solely wondering if the pulley or damper, on their own, would prevent me from doing this in the future.

Thanks in advance,

Matt
All good stuff but reconsider the following -

Pulley (new injectors not necessary)
Intake (can always sell if you go twin).
Catback (you will want a catback if you go twin).

Nothing wrong w/ OCC, strut, ect.... but I would start here engine wise.

suspension - new rear sway bar and non-run flats is the starting point.

Bart
 
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Old Feb 2, 2007 | 08:56 PM
  #11  
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Well, I've done a little research and thinking (a lot...I get obsessive when I've decided to do something and need a decision based on facts), and I've come up with a slightly revised list.


$129 - Alta Reduction Pulley (15%)
$109 - M7 Strut Tower Reinforcement Plates
$55 - "Shoe" Engine Damper
$199 - Alta Cooper S Intake (w/o Hose)
-----
$492 (excluding shipping and possible labor)

Still keeps me within my arbitrary budget, yet takes into account suggestions and so on. No belt concerns now either. I do have to realize my own naivete about all this, so the belt did bother me.

Thanks for bringing up the intake issue...in my mind at the time, it was as simple as $200+ for around 5HP. Completely forgot the non-sum nature of mods (i.e. pulley = 15HP, intake = 5HP, pulley + intake = >20HP).
 
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Old Feb 2, 2007 | 09:34 PM
  #12  
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you have a nice list going there.

For your next mod, you might want to consider a new rear sway bar like Bart said. It is one of the best mods for these cars.
 
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Old Feb 2, 2007 | 10:50 PM
  #13  
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verveAbsolut,
You are going to enjoy these mods. If you watch this forum, you may be able to obtain some of the desired parts at nice cost savings. Some things you may find used. Other times there are new things offered for low prices that people bought, but never used. I've gotten M7 strut tower brace, 22mm adjsutable rear sway bar, and stainless steel braided brake lines buying used and new from private parties on this forum - at really good savings.
 
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Old Feb 3, 2007 | 04:28 AM
  #14  
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I have some of your modifications installed on my MINI (CAI intake and M7 Strut). The difference is that I have already installed the Magnaflow Cat Back. Alta 15% pulley, 0% Crank Pulley and engien damper will be added next Wednesday. I''ll keep you posted on how it drives! So far with what I have, I CAN FEEL THE DIFFERENCE!

PS: Why don't you get the hose with the CAI?
 
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Old Feb 4, 2007 | 06:14 PM
  #15  
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PS: Why don't you get the hose with the CAI?
For almost the sole sake to save some money. I'm still in college and I have a routine where I dump around $200 from every paycheck in various money-market and stock accounts. At this time, the extra $70 or so would put me off track. Secondly...I can always add it later for a bit more than I would originally. I can't image it makes that large a difference on air flow, being unridged internally vs. the stock being ridged.
 
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Old Feb 4, 2007 | 07:49 PM
  #16  
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Stocker isn't ridged inside...

Originally Posted by verveAbsolut
For almost the sole sake to save some money. I'm still in college and I have a routine where I dump around $200 from every paycheck in various money-market and stock accounts. At this time, the extra $70 or so would put me off track. Secondly...I can always add it later for a bit more than I would originally. I can't image it makes that large a difference on air flow, being unridged internally vs. the stock being ridged.
It just looks like it would be....

Matt
 
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Old Feb 4, 2007 | 08:04 PM
  #17  
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pulley
HAI ( > $50)
one-ball..
save up some money and go for ECU or header.

after that, work on ur suspension
then brakes.
 
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Old Feb 4, 2007 | 08:59 PM
  #18  
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One thing that from all my time trolling that has never been answered...

What does HAI stand for?

Every time I see it, "Hot Air Intake," comes to mind. Of course that's rubbish.

- Matt
 
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Old Feb 4, 2007 | 10:31 PM
  #19  
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Fraid your "rubbish" is right. It does stand for Hot air intake. Essentially all CAI's are actually hot air as the air is coming from the engine bay - it's not really cold. The HAI I think (correct if wrong) usually means a completely unprotected intake generally attached right at the throttle body with the theory being that more free flowing hotter air is better than more restricted "cooler" air.

I think this is my first technical reply - haha I hope it's right!
N
 
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Old Feb 5, 2007 | 10:04 AM
  #20  
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Give that man a CIGAR!

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...&cat=22&page=1

This thread goes over some data logging and a lot of other peoples work to improve air intake temps.....

Here's one of my variations/improvements to the concept...



Matt
 
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Old Feb 5, 2007 | 09:32 PM
  #21  
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Haha, thanks a bunch for all the responses. Can't quite believe I was right in my assumption of what HAI stood for.

Anyways, things have freed up slightly (completely forgot about the little thing called a tax return ), so in addition I think I will be adding the cut-out cowl piece from Mini-Madness to the Alta, as well as picking up the Orciari cowl vent scoops. Also, I can now definitely cover labor for the more intricate work (pulley).

Thanks a bunch everybody. This should definitely keep me satiated until I manage the funding for a twin-charge setup and a Quaife.

So....left to place an order for:

15% Alta Pulley
Alta CAI Intake (w/o hose)
Cut-Out Cowl Piece
"Shoe" Engine Damper


- Matt

Oh, and I know my choice of the Orciari cowl scoops may/will be questioned, but sometimes passion does occaisionally come before pragmatism. I just love the aesthetics of it, and any possible power increase is welcome.
 
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