Don't worry, Sid--I'll get the foam to work! And I wonder if bondo is a good idea--the 'foils become part of the heatsink of the DFIC, so the Bondo might act as an insulator, whereas the hollow, or foam filled sections still dissipate some heat. I've touched mine after a run, and they are warm similar to the DFIC body itself. Remember, they would play 2 roles: to improve the airflow through the IC, and to increase the surface area for heat transfer. Woohoo!

 

What are you using for foam?
And no way, don't use Bondo, it adds more mass & it's not a reliable surface to use with an adhesive ( I'll take some flack for this, after you put it on a car & it stays on ), just trust me on this 1. You could use just JB weld if there is enough interference on the inside of the aluminum 'foil piece.

 

The injected foam was suppose to harden and reinforce the foil section while being cut in two...so my theory went down the toilet...

 

Aw c'mon, PARTSMAN, you can't throw that nugget out there without elaboration. Tell us more!

 

You caught that little nugget, huh? Good eyes.
I'll let this one fly once I get the same boost readings on the inlet and outlet bungs.

 

Ok, now I'm understanding the problem, I think. On the cut off side drill some holes so the foam can get air, it will set up ( I have used this techique for cutting thin brass extrusions, it works well ). Then you plan to cut that part off the extrusion? After it has been filled with the foam? Or did I miss something? It has NOT been a good day. If I got it.... your theory is exactly right.
You're talking "Great Stuff" right? That stuff is great. You'll have all those little holes to hold the JB weld with a good bond to the IC.

 

I put a little thermo barrier on the bottom side of the DFIC today...



I got that stuff from McMaster-Carr, they call it "calcium aluminum silicate ceramic fiber insulation",
it has a temp range of -40 to +1500 and it's self-adhesive.

Then I covered that with some Thermo-Tec reflective heat barrier...



I think that should keep it cool from the engine heat.

 

Love the ingenuity around here!

I like the half-rounds, and will need to make that happen...

You guys using an air compressor (back to front) to blow the bugs out? I've got some interesting wildlife in there!

 

Put a piece of screen in front of the core...

before I put the half rounds on the front, the screen was held on by some 3M adhesive strips.
It worked well because it is clear, very thin and super sticky. I'll try to get the name of it tomorrow.

 

Good stuff. I'm sure that will work alright. I suppose it impedes a flow a little, but probably much less than the whole bugs that would otherwise be lodged inside... Thanks for sharing the photo.

 

Even using a blow gun from back to front, you may not get all the bugs/bug fragments out because of the fin density. The screen will pretty much keep everything out except the very smallest bugs/debris.

 

Hey Partsman, any news on this 'nugget'?

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by PARTSMAN
I have almost equalized the pressure differential across the core of the DFIC using "other mods". My goal is to get the same boost readings from both the inlet and outlet bungs.

Yes, I just finished it yesterday, and I got a solid 15psi on the outlet side. I was only able to get about 13.5 or so before the mod.
I may be able to post more about it later.

 

I would be a little concerned about impeding air flow but any screen will have some effect.

I think your on the right track for the screen but feel it should be "off" of the DFIC. You could try something like the M7 screen location or how about attaching top and bottom and have it bow out (loke the letter "C" backwards) ? This is what I was thinking about for it might push debri up or down keeping the center clear. Non sticky material would drop when at a stop and then remain at the bottom?

food for thought



.

 

I had a 1/8" SS screen in front of my DFIC and noticed a temperature rise...few degrees...so I took it off and will have eto take my chances...

 

I think that having it off the surface will impede the airflow more than if it was right flat against it.

I'll take those few degrees to keep the ambient flow obstruction free.

 

[quote=PARTSMAN;1379906]I think that having it off the surface will impede the airflow more than if it was right flat against it.
[quote]

Regardless of screen location you will get some impedence however having the screen up against the DFIC, you get uneven entrances - some entrances will be covered more than others by the screen pattern. By placing the screen off the DFIC - impedence doesn't change but once past the screen you would get more even air entering the DFIC.

Of course if you buy into my logic then you got to remove the diverter bars, screen then reattach diverter bars and new screen

 

of course if you keep your speed way up there, any bugs should shoot right thru the DFIC, down to the header and the remains fry into ashes then out the back

 

 

Bugs are really not a problem as I use my compressor to blow the core fins clear after every run...the screen was first put up for small gravel protection which is really not necessary for where I drive...

 

Your logic does make sense, however with the JB weld holding the bars on, I think i'll leave it.

 

I think I will keep using compressed air every now and then.

Also, ants work very well! They go in there to get that BBQ . I'm dead serious though. I've seen them pry-off and pull-out some weird stuff...

 

Are you kiddin' me? That is too funny! I bet it does work though. Maybe get a little ant farm to keep in the boot.

 

Help me to understand what you are saying here. You have sensors to measure boost located before and after the core of the DFIC and your mod goals are to have them recording the same boost?

Is this even possible? I understand trying to minimize losses through the DFIC, but can you eliminate them?

This work is very interesting, thanks.

 

Just so you know while JB holds great - they will pop off w/ a screw driver. When I did my fin mod on the GTT IC, I was amazed at how it held but also how easy they were to remove. Anything JB that remained on either part came off w/ an exacto knife.