Drivetrain Wheel tire question
What is the difference in handling between 16" and 17" wheel tire packages? How much does the ride change? To make thing equal both with runflat goodyears. Is it an upgrade or not? If you autocross the car are there rules on rims and tires?
Thanks, Sergio
Thanks, Sergio
>>What is the difference in handling between 16" and 17" wheel tire packages? How much does the ride change? To make thing equal both with runflat goodyears. Is it an upgrade or not? If you autocross the car are there rules on rims and tires?
>>
>>Thanks, Sergio
I've heard some claim that there's a difference, but I also recall someone posting that they had the same lap times when comparing the two, so I'd say the handling difference isn't great.
In terms of weight the 16" rims are about 8 lbs lighter, which is significant. In stock class in SCCA you're confined to using wheels that match one of your stock options (offset can vary by a little, but I can't recall exactly how much.)
So you have to run 17x7 or 16x6.5 rims if you want to stay in stock.
HTH, Jeff
>>
>>Thanks, Sergio
I've heard some claim that there's a difference, but I also recall someone posting that they had the same lap times when comparing the two, so I'd say the handling difference isn't great.
In terms of weight the 16" rims are about 8 lbs lighter, which is significant. In stock class in SCCA you're confined to using wheels that match one of your stock options (offset can vary by a little, but I can't recall exactly how much.)
So you have to run 17x7 or 16x6.5 rims if you want to stay in stock.
HTH, Jeff
On a side note screw the MINI wheels and go aftermarket if you really want something better. The best in my opinion would be a set of SSR Competitions in 16x6.5 with some Yokohama AVS ES 100s. I have priced them from the tire rack and they are $1600, plan on getting them if my situation permits. A little pricy, but hey. You save around 30lbs. Or you could go the $948 route with the same tires and a set of Kosei K1 Racing wheels, only a 10 lbs loss.
Sergio,
friedduck is correct. The 16" rims are significantly lighter than the 17s - in the stock wheel category. There are several very light 17s and 18s even, but for autocross, go as small as you can in diameter. The wheels can vary be 1/4" from the stock offset, which puts you at a 43mm max offset in a 16x6.5.
We have developed a wheel to work with the MINI classification specifically - it is a 16x6.5 wiht a 44mm offset. The issue is, if you stay in stock class, you can run R compound tires - like Hoosiers. They are pricey. You can also use street tires, but if anyone else shows up in a MINI with Hoosiers, give up. I have been very competetive with street tires in the Hoosier class - but there weren't any other MINIs there either. You could also run in STX and then the class is restricted to street tires - and you could go with just about any wheel you like (a 7.5" is as large as you can go without serious rubbing or serious camber).
Feel free to give me a call if you have any other questions on wheel/tire set up.
Randy
720-841-1002
friedduck is correct. The 16" rims are significantly lighter than the 17s - in the stock wheel category. There are several very light 17s and 18s even, but for autocross, go as small as you can in diameter. The wheels can vary be 1/4" from the stock offset, which puts you at a 43mm max offset in a 16x6.5.
We have developed a wheel to work with the MINI classification specifically - it is a 16x6.5 wiht a 44mm offset. The issue is, if you stay in stock class, you can run R compound tires - like Hoosiers. They are pricey. You can also use street tires, but if anyone else shows up in a MINI with Hoosiers, give up. I have been very competetive with street tires in the Hoosier class - but there weren't any other MINIs there either. You could also run in STX and then the class is restricted to street tires - and you could go with just about any wheel you like (a 7.5" is as large as you can go without serious rubbing or serious camber).
Feel free to give me a call if you have any other questions on wheel/tire set up.
Randy
720-841-1002
Anyone else want to shed any light? I am ready to make a move but am still on the fence. I have the 16" r90 wheels on the car now and it looks good so its making it hard to make this choice. I need some help/advice please.
I agree, keep the R90s, they are a fine wheel at a very decent weight. Spend the money on something else :smile:
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The R90 is a 17" 24lb wheel. It is made by BBS, and is very strong, but as you can see, it is hefty.
You can actually save 10lbs per wheel by going to any of the lightweight wheels out there!
Hope that helps!
You can actually save 10lbs per wheel by going to any of the lightweight wheels out there!
Hope that helps!
There is also a 16" version of the R90, which weighs about 20 lb. Not the lightest wheel out there, but not THAT bad and should be strong. The poster indicated that he has the 16" R90's.
Mine handles much better with the current 16"s as opposed to my stock 17"s, but there is a 16.5 lb difference in weight per corner and the new tires are much stickier so that makes a big difference. 17"s look better, 16"s work better.
AH, I neglected to see that... Thanks Andy. Like he said, the weight savings can still be significant. The most econimical way to change out the wheels may be the R84 16" factory wheels. Keep an eye out on E-bay or talk to your dealer about take-offs. Here's a breakdown on weights:
R84 16" (v-spoke) 16lbs
R90 16" (BBS) 20lbs
R90 17" (BBS) 24lbs
S-lite 17" 25lbs
There are several very light wheels out there in both 16 and 17. Check out the http://www.TeamDynamicsUSA.com website, the http://www.centerlinewheels.com website and the SSR competitions at Tire Rack for some ideas.
I also sell a set of lightweight 16s, and new wheel and tire packages are coming using the Centerline RPM and the Team Dynamics Pro Race 1.
Hope that helps!
Randy
R84 16" (v-spoke) 16lbs
R90 16" (BBS) 20lbs
R90 17" (BBS) 24lbs
S-lite 17" 25lbs
There are several very light wheels out there in both 16 and 17. Check out the http://www.TeamDynamicsUSA.com website, the http://www.centerlinewheels.com website and the SSR competitions at Tire Rack for some ideas.
I also sell a set of lightweight 16s, and new wheel and tire packages are coming using the Centerline RPM and the Team Dynamics Pro Race 1.
Hope that helps!
Randy
>>I also sell a set of lightweight 16s, and new wheel and tire packages are coming using the Centerline RPM and the Team Dynamics Pro Race 1.
>>
>>Hope that helps!
>>
>>Randy
>>
*Now* ya tell us!! Grrrrr
>>
>>Hope that helps!
>>
>>Randy
>>
*Now* ya tell us!! Grrrrr
Hello everyone. Which is better for autocross? Slalom course? Which combo handles better 16s or 17s? The 16's with the runflats seem to have alot of sidewall deflection but once it grips its ok then it squeels then you fell the tire rollover. Would you have that with the 17's? Or just pit a better tire on the 16' rims?
With lightweight 16's, decent tires and a bar it's a different car. Also, the diameter of the 16's should end up about an inch smaller than the stock 17's with runflats depending on which tire you put on it. Smaller diameter=lower effective final drive (higher numerically)=faster acceleration. It is noticable. As is the steering response. Downsides=Speedo is off + you will probably want to lower it a bit as it looks a little goofy. (:
Acceleration difference isn't noticable with 16 vs 17" wheels. I've driven both and could not tell. Also, I have the v-spoke 16s and I've had someone with the 17s out run me from a dead start, but he has the magnaflo so that's the more likely reason. Point is if you like the look of 17s go for it, because if you've go the cash to throw into your car, you can do other mods to negate the weight difference.
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