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Drivetrain Is there any way to slow down the H2O pump?

Old Nov 12, 2006 | 09:23 PM
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Is there any way to slow down the H2O pump?

I want to do some of my own testing a make a custom 21% pulley from an Alta pulley. I know is creates for more heat but I do have a larger aftercooler with a water spayer. I main concern is slowing down the water pump so I won't over spin it. Is this possible?
 
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Old Nov 12, 2006 | 09:30 PM
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Oversized water pump pulley?, which is somehting I'm almost certain would have to be fabricated as I'm yet to see one offered by a vendor.
 
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Old Nov 12, 2006 | 10:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Motor On
Oversized water pump pulley?, which is somehting I'm almost certain would have to be fabricated as I'm yet to see one offered by a vendor.
Which is absolutly not possible, as the waterpump is driven of the supercharger IE. the SC pulley determines the waterpump speed....

Peter
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Old Nov 12, 2006 | 10:07 PM
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Originally Posted by MarioKart
I want to do some of my own testing a make a custom 21% pulley from an Alta pulley. I know is creates for more heat but I do have a larger aftercooler with a water spayer. I main concern is slowing down the water pump so I won't over spin it. Is this possible?
You know your going to be redlineing the S/C at around 5k right?

-Brian
 
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Old Nov 12, 2006 | 11:24 PM
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Originally Posted by TheBlackBrian
You know your going to be redlineing the S/C at around 5k right?

-Brian
Buzz kill.
 
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Old Nov 13, 2006 | 12:42 AM
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Why would you want to slow the waterpump? A number of people here run 19% +2% or even +4% and the waterpump seems to hold up fine. Instead of custom making a pulley, using a +4% crank pulley with the 17% would probably be close enough. Better even, because there would be more surface area for the belt than a 21%.

At 21% you would exceed 17,200 supercharger rpm right around 6,900 engine rpm instead of 7,137 rpm with a 17%. Not a big deal as long as you realize that shifting ~200rpm sooner than you do now would likely produce the best results because anything higher would just heat the air faster than any gains from the increased boost. And no faster supercharger rpm than now=no cavitation problems from the water pump.

I suppose you could always use an electric waterpump like the M62 guys have to use, but they only use that because the regular one no longer fits.
 
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Old Nov 13, 2006 | 04:58 AM
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you need to monitor your coolant temps... this may not be a good idea ... if the coolant does not get hot enough the ecu will think it is in warm up mode.... I monitor my coolant temps.... this does really happen and it is easier than you think..... to those people running these high combinations... if you monitor your IAT then when you go on a long drive you are killing power... I see this good for a few "blasts" now and then but I have my doubts if you will make it through a Dragon run for example with anywhere near the power that you started with...... trying not to be a buzz kill.....
 
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Old Nov 13, 2006 | 07:47 AM
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Originally Posted by BFG9000
Why would you want to slow the waterpump? A number of people here run 19% +2% or even +4% and the waterpump seems to hold up fine. Instead of custom making a pulley, using a +4% crank pulley with the 17% would probably be close enough. Better even, because there would be more surface area for the belt than a 21%.

At 21% you would exceed 17,200 supercharger rpm right around 6,900 engine rpm instead of 7,137 rpm with a 17%. Not a big deal as long as you realize that shifting ~200rpm sooner than you do now would likely produce the best results because anything higher would just heat the air faster than any gains from the increased boost. And no faster supercharger rpm than now=no cavitation problems from the water pump.

I suppose you could always use an electric waterpump like the M62 guys have to use, but they only use that because the regular one no longer fits.

Cavitation will not be the problem... but minis even with stock supercharger pullies (depending on year) the water pump seals come apart and blow out and leak a little. If you really start spinning the thing you are likely to increas wear on it. We see lots of stock MINI's coming into our shop with leaky water pumps, often times we rebuild them with the new better sealing seals without the client ever knowing... all the work is performed underwarranty
 
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Old Nov 13, 2006 | 08:35 AM
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Originally Posted by isellem
Cavitation will not be the problem... but minis even with stock supercharger pullies (depending on year) the water pump seals come apart and blow out and leak a little. If you really start spinning the thing you are likely to increas wear on it. We see lots of stock MINI's coming into our shop with leaky water pumps, often times we rebuild them with the new better sealing seals without the client ever knowing... all the work is performed underwarranty
"...(depending on year.).."

What was the production date when the improved seals were introduced?
 
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