Drivetrain 4-1 vs 4-2-1 Headers
4-1 vs 4-2-1 Headers
After a few years of looking at headers and reading the forums for the past few months, its all starting to run together.
However, is it safe to assume that a 4-1 header will add more power up top while a 4-2-1 will add more torque mid range?
I am looking at getting a header and I know OBX is very popular. The only two other headers that I found were the super sprint(obviously) and Jackson Racing. Any one use the Jackson Racing piece?
What about GTT? I know its not 4-2-1 but it also looks like a nice piece.
Thanks for your input. I am trying to take a different approach to the "which header and why" threads.
Thanks,
Sean
However, is it safe to assume that a 4-1 header will add more power up top while a 4-2-1 will add more torque mid range? I am looking at getting a header and I know OBX is very popular. The only two other headers that I found were the super sprint(obviously) and Jackson Racing. Any one use the Jackson Racing piece?
What about GTT? I know its not 4-2-1 but it also looks like a nice piece.
Thanks for your input. I am trying to take a different approach to the "which header and why" threads.
Thanks,
Sean
if you go to the Mini Mania website they have for sale two different 4-2-1 headers. they have "theirs" which also sold by 7 Enterprises under the Comptech name, and Mini Mania just added the british Blue Flame header which looks pretty nice too.
I know that Randy from M7 runs the Jackson header. You might want to contact him for a review.
I checked out the Jackson a while back, it is a nice piece, but I don't like the pre-cat O2 sensor bung location. It looks like it's only reading two cylinders. It probably doesn't matter, but i'm picky like that.
I checked out the Jackson a while back, it is a nice piece, but I don't like the pre-cat O2 sensor bung location. It looks like it's only reading two cylinders. It probably doesn't matter, but i'm picky like that.
Hum, good point. I wonder if i could plug that and just use the sensors in there factory location(they are both in the cat arent they?) The plan is to have the stock cat welded in.
There are plenty of header options. A key factor to your decision is how much $$ you want to allocate to your header project.
I will tell you that a header is a nice addition. In my case (OBX), I felt a TQ gain (butt dyno) and a little smoother up top. I went the cheepie route, allocating the saved dollars to other goodies
.
I will tell you that a header is a nice addition. In my case (OBX), I felt a TQ gain (butt dyno) and a little smoother up top. I went the cheepie route, allocating the saved dollars to other goodies
.
No.
Sad truth here is that there's really no way at all to know how the various header offerings compare...... So it usually comes down to price, options, and vendor relationship.
Matt
There are plenty of header options. A key factor to your decision is how much $$ you want to allocate to your header project.
I will tell you that a header is a nice addition. In my case (OBX), I felt a TQ gain (butt dyno) and a little smoother up top. I went the cheepie route, allocating the saved dollars to other goodies
.
I will tell you that a header is a nice addition. In my case (OBX), I felt a TQ gain (butt dyno) and a little smoother up top. I went the cheepie route, allocating the saved dollars to other goodies
.A 4-2-1 CAN be tuned for a broader torque peak, but there is no guarantee that any of the headers are optimal designs, nor is there good info on the particular design philosophy behind each offering. In general, most of the headers are shorter than you would build from a header tuning standpoint, but one works with the space available....
Sad truth here is that there's really no way at all to know how the various header offerings compare...... So it usually comes down to price, options, and vendor relationship.
Matt
Sad truth here is that there's really no way at all to know how the various header offerings compare...... So it usually comes down to price, options, and vendor relationship.
Matt
My local vender, while I really like them, only carry Milteck(sp) and with there cat problems I am not interested.
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If you were to plug the pre-cat bung in the Jackson header, you will need to install it somewhere else BEFORE the cat, like at the "V" before the middle flange. Since the cat will be a custom install, you can also have the shop put it in the pipe before the cat, (just make sure the sensor harness is long enough to reach wherever you put it), and just use the factory bung after the cat.
If you were to plug the pre-cat bung in the Jackson header, you will need to install it somewhere else BEFORE the cat, like at the "V" before the middle flange. Since the cat will be a custom install, you can also have the shop put it in the pipe before the cat, (just make sure the sensor harness is long enough to reach wherever you put it), and just use the factory bung after the cat.
Most here know my position (i'm so shy
) - spending big bucks on a header is un-necessary. There is the OBX if you want 4-2-1 and then there is the Megan if you want 4-1. Both are priced right, add the coating and you are still way ahead in $$ than most others. Take the difference and put it to another MOD.
I haven't had back on the dyno yet, and I won't have a number from just removing the pre-cat, because I also installed a M7 2% crank pulley since my last dyno run.
The car is a lot smoother, and pulls real strong. It also has a little louder tone at idle.
Have you seen what's inside the pre-cat?
From willy69's thread...

it's a wonder the car runs at all!
The car is a lot smoother, and pulls real strong. It also has a little louder tone at idle.
Have you seen what's inside the pre-cat?
From willy69's thread...

it's a wonder the car runs at all!
Dr. O: In general, most of the headers are shorter than you would build from a header tuning standpoint, but one works with the space available....
Most but not all! For those interested in a truly developed header I'll have one on the street by Wednesday. I spent the weekend with it at Pocono testing it. Pricing and specs will soon be released. Read about it on my web site.
Most but not all! For those interested in a truly developed header I'll have one on the street by Wednesday. I spent the weekend with it at Pocono testing it. Pricing and specs will soon be released. Read about it on my web site.
Dr. O: In general, most of the headers are shorter than you would build from a header tuning standpoint, but one works with the space available....
Most but not all! For those interested in a truly developed header I'll have one on the street by Wednesday. I spent the weekend with it at Pocono testing it. Pricing and specs will soon be released. Read about it on my web site.
Most but not all! For those interested in a truly developed header I'll have one on the street by Wednesday. I spent the weekend with it at Pocono testing it. Pricing and specs will soon be released. Read about it on my web site.
Numbers to show? o and we need some pricing info..
Doesn't look too street though. Long primaries are nice but the exit is going to leave you with a hacked up valance.
Do you need extra heat shielding with the cat being back under the seating area, does it come with extensions for the O2 sensors, does it fit older cars and about that valance, any plan?
I'm thinking these might be good general questions. I am not picking at what looks to be a nice system.

PS:
In this pic I don't see bungs or leads.
Those are some seriously long primaries (for a mini) and Stahl is reputable. It looks like a complete exhaust system though and current catbacks won't work with this longer header. Is this really the case?

Your right, its a full system. Current cat backs will not work.
You will need the entire system. Don't know if Don plans on selling the header cat and allow to splice it into an existing system. I doubt it. That would undermine the testing put into the design.
Some answers:
It is an entire system: header and cat back.
I'm not quite sure what "street tough" means.
I run it without the valance; one will be made and I'll offer it as an option.
You need to lengthen all 3 O2 sensors: Mini & optional wide band. It's easy.
You wouldn't want to change the basic design by fitting another system to it as it was designed to run the way it was built by Stahl.
It is an entire system: header and cat back.
I'm not quite sure what "street tough" means.
I run it without the valance; one will be made and I'll offer it as an option.
You need to lengthen all 3 O2 sensors: Mini & optional wide band. It's easy.
You wouldn't want to change the basic design by fitting another system to it as it was designed to run the way it was built by Stahl.
Stahl Headers & CAT back
Stage 2 is currently being built. Pricing will follow shortly. It will be offered with 2 muffler choices: street and sport.
The sport mufflers are loud under hard acceleration but quiet under normal driving conditions. Interestingly, when the mufflers warm up, they quiet down.
At the drivers seat, windows up:
low 70s db at idle
low 80s db on the highway
around 99db under hard acceleration
The sport mufflers are loud under hard acceleration but quiet under normal driving conditions. Interestingly, when the mufflers warm up, they quiet down.
At the drivers seat, windows up:
low 70s db at idle
low 80s db on the highway
around 99db under hard acceleration


