Drivetrain (Cooper S) MINI Cooper S (R53) intakes, exhausts, pulleys, headers, throttle bodies, and any other modifications to the Cooper S drivetrain.

Drivetrain Show me your Iridiums

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Old Aug 29, 2006 | 08:02 PM
  #76  
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Originally Posted by caminifan
One line of inquiry I have been following on another board (Corvettes) calls for .060 gap.... I am wondering, split the difference? (Especially if you had IK20s at .045...; maybe it is time to go back to .045???)

I'm certain this would be OK. At least initally.
I didn't think to check the gap in my current plugs when I had them out but I'm betting they're pushing .050. I'll check for sure when I get the new plugs.
Starting at .045 might give you to large a gap at the end of life for the plug.
I mentioned earlier that minimc played with a .060 gap and found it was too much.

One bit that hasn't been brought up in this thread is that jumping the larger gap makes the coil work harder. So it generates more heat. Which shortens it's service life.
 
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Old Aug 29, 2006 | 08:02 PM
  #77  
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Originally Posted by Dr Obnxs
the new corvettes have coil on plug or coil near plug ignition. I think that's a 100kV system. They should be running larger gaps...

Matt
I wasn't suggesting going to .060; only .045 (especially since he had good experience with .045 on his IK20s).
 
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Old Aug 29, 2006 | 08:10 PM
  #78  
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Originally Posted by obehave
I'm certain this would be OK. At least initally.
I didn't think to check the gap in my current plugs when I had them out but I'm betting they're pushing .050. I'll check for sure when I get the new plugs.
Starting at .045 might give you to large a gap at the end of life for the plug.
I mentioned earlier that minimc played with a .060 gap and found it was too much.

One bit that hasn't been brought up in this thread is that jumping the larger gap makes the coil work harder. So it generates more heat. Which shortens it's service life.
Well, plugs are a consumable. Maybe start with .045 and as the gap gets larger, bring it back to .045? You are basically juggling plug wear against loading the coil. Since plugs are more of a consumable (than the coil), it would seem that the appropriate course is to gap them wider than .032 but not too wide that you open the coil to stress (greater heat) that causes it to fail. Or, you could go with another plug.... Decision, decisions, decisions....
 
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Old Aug 29, 2006 | 09:47 PM
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We're re-inventing the wheel..

I did some searches a while ago... Seems like in 03 a bunch of people did some work with plugs and gapping. Gaps from .035 to .060 were used. Seems most were happy in the ~.o45 range plus or minus about 5... But this is all from my memory....

In honesty though, the way the plug should be gapped is by looking at spark duration with a scope.... There is some reference to it in the Bentley manual.

Matt
 
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Old Aug 29, 2006 | 11:43 PM
  #80  
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Spoke to Jaque at Bay Bridge Motors today about replacing my IK 22 because of some of the feedback in this post.He prefers to use the stock plugs for the best overall performance.Q
 
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Old Aug 30, 2006 | 04:56 AM
  #81  
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https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ad.php?t=77796
 
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Old Aug 30, 2006 | 07:11 AM
  #82  
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Originally Posted by Dr Obnxs
I did some searches a while ago... Seems like in 03 a bunch of people did some work with plugs and gapping. Gaps from .035 to .060 were used. Seems most were happy in the ~.o45 range plus or minus about 5... But this is all from my memory....

In honesty though, the way the plug should be gapped is by looking at spark duration with a scope.... There is some reference to it in the Bentley manual.

Matt

A lot of that was minimc and myself which would be why I keep referencing our experience.
 
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Old Aug 30, 2006 | 07:27 AM
  #83  
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Has anyone...

actually looked at the spark duration with any of the aftermarket plugs and different gaps? Or are well all trying to find the sweet spot from "feel" only?

Matt
 
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Old Aug 30, 2006 | 07:43 AM
  #84  
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Just copping a feel
 
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Old Aug 30, 2006 | 08:25 AM
  #85  
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Obehave,

I'm thinking I should go ahead and swap mine for new (can't hurt). Mostly because after sitting for a day or 2, my Mini will need a few runs on the starter before actually kicking over. I've logged about 20k on mine since they were installed with my pulley.

Do wires go bad over time as well? Just curious... I have some Jackson racing 8mm wires, I just wonder if something else will really make much difference besides looking newer.

Sounds like bj is having a maintenance day at his place Sept. 10th, good time to do it for me I guess.
 
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Old Aug 30, 2006 | 09:15 AM
  #86  
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Originally Posted by obehave
Just copping a feel
Whooooo....... You are bad.
 
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Old Aug 30, 2006 | 09:50 AM
  #87  
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Originally Posted by F15EWeapon
Obehave,

I'm thinking I should go ahead and swap mine for new (can't hurt). Mostly because after sitting for a day or 2, my Mini will need a few runs on the starter before actually kicking over. I've logged about 20k on mine since they were installed with my pulley.

Do wires go bad over time as well? Just curious... I have some Jackson racing 8mm wires, I just wonder if something else will really make much difference besides looking newer.

Sounds like bj is having a maintenance day at his place Sept. 10th, good time to do it for me I guess.

Yea wires do go bad. The only real way to know is to find out what the manufacturers impedance spec is and then measure it. This used to be expressed in K ohms/ft but is probably now metric.
Insulator leakage is an issue as well.

Found this :More information than you want
From Magnecors site

Mine are pushing 20K miles and were OK last time I checked (entirely too long ago ).
So give them a good inspection, surface cleaning and chuck them on an ohm meter and save some money.



Or just tell me to go pound sand and buy new wires.
 
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Old Aug 30, 2006 | 11:25 AM
  #88  
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Well, something new is always nice... I don't have an ohm meter around, and frankly it's easier to just get new ones. Besides, one of the boots doesn't seal very well, so it's probably a good thing anyhow.

Now the real question... what wires?? :impatient
 
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Old Aug 30, 2006 | 11:39 AM
  #89  
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I'd get an ohm meter before I bought new wires...

you can get them for around $20 or so if you look. A lot less than plug wires... Also, if you just want some stockers, ask at Mini Tuner places. They tend to have some lying around from those that have upgraded.

Matt
 
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Old Aug 30, 2006 | 11:52 AM
  #90  
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Originally Posted by F15EWeapon
Well, something new is always nice... I don't have an ohm meter around, and frankly it's easier to just get new ones. Besides, one of the boots doesn't seal very well, so it's probably a good thing anyhow.

Now the real question... what wires?? :impatient
I've been very happy with the Magnecors. I'm running the 8mm wires since they're blue. I'm really thinking of dumping color coordination and just getting the 8.5s which come in red.
I'll be checking mine when the new plugs come in.

Bigger must be better
 
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Old Aug 30, 2006 | 12:17 PM
  #91  
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As the diameter gets larger...

the wires don't make the bend in the boots quite as well. No big deal, but it looks less clean.

Matt
 
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Old Aug 30, 2006 | 12:31 PM
  #92  
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Originally Posted by Dr Obnxs
the wires don't make the bend in the boots quite as well. No big deal, but it looks less clean.

Matt
Too true.

Even a couple of my 8mm wires aren't happy. I've left them that way. Plenty of hood clearance and no need for unnecessary, tight bends.

I've always used, if possible, a natural flow radius to any ignition wire bends. Hold it straight up in the middle and whatever bend you get when the wire flops over, don't exceed it.
 
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Old Aug 31, 2006 | 07:34 AM
  #93  
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What a coincidence. My Denso Iridium IK22's just started giving me misfire problems under WOT (at 25k+ miles) the tips on cylinders 2 and 3 had worn down to make a gap or .055 or so, and well that explains it, no?

This thread and accompanying links has lead me to believe that I'd do better with the NGK Iridium replacements (Denso tips are slightly more than half the diameter of the NGK tip). As I've not experienced ignition problems prior to this (living in God's country - east of the Mississippi), I'll continue with the NGK equivalent of the Denso IK22. Here are some cross reference part numbers.

For stock temperature range: Denso IK20 or NGK BKR6EIX

One range colder: Denso IK22 or NGK BKR7EIX

Two ranges colder: Denso IK24 or NGK BKR8EIX

Hope this helps others in the market for Iridium plugs.
 
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Old Aug 31, 2006 | 07:41 AM
  #94  
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This is from a PM I sent referencing part lookup on NGKs site using their application tool.

If you look up the Cooper on the site you get the BKR6EIX plug I crossed over on sparkplugs.com. This would match an IK20.

The Cooper S gets you ZFR6FIX. ZFR7FIX would be your IK22s

BKR7EIX would be IK22s BKR8EIX = IK24s

People have posted this P/N and BKR6EQUP( this seems to be the most common but appears to be an older P/N.

I'd kinda trust NGK
 
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Old Aug 31, 2006 | 12:36 PM
  #95  
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Here's my NGK's with 2500 miles on them:



Is the brown (rust?) color normal?





And the old plugs with over 30K on them:
 
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Old Aug 31, 2006 | 01:46 PM
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SayBoogbye, those look pretty good. A tan or brownish color is what you want to see.
 
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Old Aug 31, 2006 | 01:47 PM
  #97  
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Originally Posted by kapps
SayBoogbye, those look pretty good. A tan or brownish color is what you want to see.
Cool. Thanks for the response. It worried me a bit that the new ones are brown and the old ones were not. I like ho you spelled my screen name too!
 
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Old Aug 31, 2006 | 02:02 PM
  #98  
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Originally Posted by SayGoodbye
I like ho you spelled my screen name too!
oops...
 
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Old Sep 5, 2006 | 08:43 AM
  #99  
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So?
The consensus appears to be;
The Ir plugs just go away @ ~ 15-20K miles.
Heat range may not be a factor..

And before you ask, no I haven't put mine in yet. We had a bit of a hurricane/TS thing go through and delivery shut down. Should get them today. I hope.......
 
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Old Sep 5, 2006 | 08:43 AM
  #100  
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12k...NGK!

Looks great but I replaced them anyway...

Sorry for the delay but you can see the part number now...BKR8EIX...equivalent to Denso IK24 (two stage colder)...under $7 a piece

 
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