Mini Mania has recently posted this on their site.
http://new.minimania.com/NewMiniSear...p;ShowIcons=No
Does it make a defference? Why 3 pieces? Answers or opinions?

 

It will allow you to purchase difference size inserts, should you desire to have more or less boost.

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Cheese

 

We designed a 3-piece unit to eliminate the need for a press during installation. In contrast to the interference fit design of other pulleys, our 'tapered' inner and outer collars overlap inside the pulley, thus expanding when tightened. When torqued to spec, the pulley is secure with no chance of slippage. This design simplies the 'installation' of the pulley. You still have to deal with the removal of the stock pulley, but we're working on another ingenious tool that will allow removal of the factory pulley without tearing the car apart. Stay tuned...

 

nice... :smile:

 

>>Mini Mania has recently posted this on their site.
>>http://new.minimania.com/NewMiniSear...p;ShowIcons=No
>>Does it make a defference? Why 3 pieces? Answers or opinions?

Ken,

How does the tapered fit work?

Do you in fact offer other reduction pulleys?

Is the taper fit hub steel? Thanks.

Randy

 

Very cool design, but do you have any dyno plots to back up the 20 whp claim?

 

Man, if you can eliminate the total tear-down of the front end to install the new pully, that would be a definite bonus.

 

Well this pulley upgrade interests me the most...i want to hear more.

 

>>
>>How does the tapered fit work?
>>
>>Do you in fact offer other reduction pulleys?
>>
>>Is the taper fit hub steel? Thanks.
>>

Taper/Cone locking rings are used quite a bit in heavy-duty industrial applications for locking bearings and collets to shafts ... this looks like a neat little adaptaion of some of those; just like the shrink-fit type, the inside better be steel ...

 

You can find photo's of the pulley pieces at:
http://new.minimania.com/NewMiniSear...p;ShowIcons=No

The 2-piece hub is made with stainless steel, the pulley itself is aluminum. We are looking at other pulley sizes, but only offer the -15% reduction pulley (and belt) at this time.

 

We have a difficult time posting dyno's which in itself only tells part of the story. There are too many variables which can affect the measurement, including the dyno itself, atmospheric conditions, fan or no fan, hood open or not, etc, etc. Unless all products can be tested at the same dyno facility under identical conditions, measurements are not comparable. Dyno is an excellent tuning tool.

With that said, here is a dyno chart. Instead of showing you our dyno - which nobody will believe anyway, here is a link to a dyno run by one of our customers:
http://www.minimania.com/images/Char...ley%20Dyno.pdf
Coutesy of minicoopersgirl.

 

Ken,
I'm not a fan of dynos for numerical values but I understand that that is what the majority of customers are interested in. In all fairness, you're not going to make base HP + 20 HP. Your gain at peak is only 16 HP.
It doesnt matter all that much to me, i'll take 20hp at any usabe RPM, but there are masses of peopel on these boards after the elusive 200HP and your pulley, while its going to get them closer, isnt going to give them 20+ HP you're advertising.
I hope you dont take this as a slam on your product, it looks like a well engineered piece. Just pointing some facts out that may not be obvious to everyone from the way your description is worded.


--
Cheese

 

that tapered fit looks great; P&D may adopt it as well. We chose the press fit since that is the reliable and time proven method used by Eaton, but they are fitting pulleys in the factory where conditions are different. The issue is really about long term reliability at high rpm (and perhaps 30 of 40 hp taken by the blower), so the industrial tapered fit still needs to be validated in this application

 

Well after looking at the dyno results it is more important to look at torque in my eyes. Most of us are not running top end all the time so the gains in torque are very impressive. It does make 20hp. I agree with Ken on different circumstances and each vehicle is different so that comes into play also. It looks like a good product and i want to see the long term effects.. :smile:

 

Wow - the more I read about it, the more the pulley upgrade seems like a good idea. According to that chart, I'll take 10lbs of torque at 3000rpm and 14-15lbs in the mid 4000s.

 

A long term dyno test would be good too (with simliar weather conditions) to see how the computer has reacted to the higher boost.

My only hesitation with power adders is longetivity; will the car be eating a quart of oil a week at 100k miles?

Great looking product Ken, my compliments!

Cheers,
Ryan

 

In terms of drivability the pulley looks great. Torque at ~2300rpm equals the stocker at 3000rpm! Dropping the point at which the Mini accelerates well is high in my book. After all, when not terrorizing children and animals in the neighborhood, I'm idling along at 2500-3500

Jeff

 

Ken,

Thanks for the info this afternoon.

Et al,

I will be getting the pulley in the morning, and plan to do yet another full eval on it. For those of you asking about the numbers - 15% is 15%, and the pulley reduction is what determines the boost increase, which in turn makes the power. Any 15% pulley will make the same power increases.

The design of the system is what is critical - whether that be the hub material, the installation, or the versatility of the system.

This one has promise - stay tuned!

Randy