Drivetrain 91 vs 100 octane gas
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 10,340
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From: Woodside, CA
91 vs 100 octane gas
I've been testing ICs and ran into an issue.. Timing retard. FWIW, I run MTH, and some other suff, but I thought it interesting that the car is running in timing retard whenever I floor it. Not too good. This graph is knock window vs individual cylinder timing as logged via BiM-COM beta.... I'll add some G-Tech Data in a bit... Also, I ran to the rev limiter, so I don't know if the timing retard at the end of the graph means anything in real world driving....
Matt

R9 is the 100 octane, and R2 is the 91. You can also see that some cylinders are worse than others....
Matt
R9 is the 100 octane, and R2 is the 91. You can also see that some cylinders are worse than others....
I'm pretty sure he's running the 100 octane from the pump. Lucky guy.
Originally Posted by dominicminicoopers
Are you running 100 octane gas from the pump or are you using an octane booster to increase the number?
probably, as long as you are running 100 octane gas as well. otherwise you'd be in trouble, running too lean.
Originally Posted by mdsbrain
Do you think similar #s would be created from someone using a Unichip with the map set for 100 octane?
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 10,340
Likes: 4
From: Woodside, CA
It's pump gas...
but I was just doing it for testing. Too expensive to run every day. I was just shocked that with the 91, I was in timing retard ALL THE TIME!
Matt
Matt
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Originally Posted by Dr Obnxs
but I was just doing it for testing. Too expensive to run every day. I was just shocked that with the 91, I was in timing retard ALL THE TIME!
Matt
Matt
I'm wanting to go in and get a custom ECU tune. That would be sweet.
Originally Posted by haulinS
probably, as long as you are running 100 octane gas as well. otherwise you'd be in trouble, running too lean.
I use to live in lafayette too, I think I've meet you before. I have the ds/w mcs.
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 10,340
Likes: 4
From: Woodside, CA
I've talked to a few people....
First off, I looked at some data someone else sent me, and it looks like a stock ECU map for an S with a pully and a CAI still gets timing retard when floored, just a bit less than I got with this measurement. Mine is up to 11 degrees retard, the other data showed up to about 8 degrees. Interestingly, without the pully, it wasn't pulling much timing at all.
Also talked to someone who did some ECU tuning optimization, and he found that about half CA pisswater and half 100 gave the best power. Maybe 100 octane needs even more advance to get all it has to give!
When I've tracked, I put some of the sweet in, and I think I got about 5 more MPH at the end of the front straight at Thunderhill, but that wasn't on an empty tank, so I wasn't driving exactly 100 octane, more like 95-97.
And lastly, after driving a tank full of the 100, I can say for sure that the car is more lively at lower RPM, and the pull is surprising! But peak, I don't really feel that much of a difference.
Overall, I'm just surprised that it's pulling so much timing, and wondering if dropping yet another temp range on the plugs will help....
Matt
Also talked to someone who did some ECU tuning optimization, and he found that about half CA pisswater and half 100 gave the best power. Maybe 100 octane needs even more advance to get all it has to give!
When I've tracked, I put some of the sweet in, and I think I got about 5 more MPH at the end of the front straight at Thunderhill, but that wasn't on an empty tank, so I wasn't driving exactly 100 octane, more like 95-97.
And lastly, after driving a tank full of the 100, I can say for sure that the car is more lively at lower RPM, and the pull is surprising! But peak, I don't really feel that much of a difference.
Overall, I'm just surprised that it's pulling so much timing, and wondering if dropping yet another temp range on the plugs will help....
Matt
Originally Posted by Dr Obnxs
First off, I looked at some data someone else sent me, and it looks like a stock ECU map for an S with a pully and a CAI still gets timing retard when floored, just a bit less than I got with this measurement. Mine is up to 11 degrees retard, the other data showed up to about 8 degrees. Interestingly, without the pully, it wasn't pulling much timing at all.
Also talked to someone who did some ECU tuning optimization, and he found that about half CA pisswater and half 100 gave the best power. Maybe 100 octane needs even more advance to get all it has to give!
When I've tracked, I put some of the sweet in, and I think I got about 5 more MPH at the end of the front straight at Thunderhill, but that wasn't on an empty tank, so I wasn't driving exactly 100 octane, more like 95-97.
And lastly, after driving a tank full of the 100, I can say for sure that the car is more lively at lower RPM, and the pull is surprising! But peak, I don't really feel that much of a difference.
Overall, I'm just surprised that it's pulling so much timing, and wondering if dropping yet another temp range on the plugs will help....
Matt
Also talked to someone who did some ECU tuning optimization, and he found that about half CA pisswater and half 100 gave the best power. Maybe 100 octane needs even more advance to get all it has to give!
When I've tracked, I put some of the sweet in, and I think I got about 5 more MPH at the end of the front straight at Thunderhill, but that wasn't on an empty tank, so I wasn't driving exactly 100 octane, more like 95-97.
And lastly, after driving a tank full of the 100, I can say for sure that the car is more lively at lower RPM, and the pull is surprising! But peak, I don't really feel that much of a difference.
Overall, I'm just surprised that it's pulling so much timing, and wondering if dropping yet another temp range on the plugs will help....
Matt
You might be better off lowering coolant/cylinder head temps with a cooler thermostat to get more timing. Cooalnt temp is one the main inputs for timing and fuel richness.
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 10,340
Likes: 4
From: Woodside, CA
Lots of comments.....
Originally Posted by 002
How are you determining what the timing "should" be?
Originally Posted by 002
The timing is adaptive and I have not read anything that says it starts at a fixed point.
Originally Posted by 002
You might be better off lowering coolant/cylinder head temps with a cooler thermostat to get more timing. Cooalnt temp is one the main inputs for timing and fuel richness.
Matt
"It HAS to have a base map, or a limit of advance, otherwise it could just keep advancing, and advance too far. OR it would advance until knock is detected" -dr obnxs
That is how it works. It is constantly advancing until knock and then back 3 degrees, then back up 2, and so on. You just can't hear the knock. Are you saying that you know what maximum timing is because you have seen the table or because that was the most you got with 100 octane?
With the colder t-stat the car should still warm up to 180* at the same rate, but beyond that the 180 should keep the head cooler while moving. While with the stock t-stat there is no way (without fans) it is getting any cooler than what it is set at. Like I mention before, bmw uses this temperature for its performance maps ( which are adjusted in real time according to load) so that's why I'm focusing on that way of reducing temps.
Do you plan on data logging different heat ranges? NGK's faq says that the difference between heat ranges is the potential to remove 70 to 100*c. I'm curious to see how cold of a range can be used before plug fouling becomes a problem and what the real world relationship is between coolant/cylinder head temp, timing and horse power is.
There was about 15hp difference between dyno runs with 195* and 215* the last time I dyno'd.
Keep us posted on your findings.
That is how it works. It is constantly advancing until knock and then back 3 degrees, then back up 2, and so on. You just can't hear the knock. Are you saying that you know what maximum timing is because you have seen the table or because that was the most you got with 100 octane?
With the colder t-stat the car should still warm up to 180* at the same rate, but beyond that the 180 should keep the head cooler while moving. While with the stock t-stat there is no way (without fans) it is getting any cooler than what it is set at. Like I mention before, bmw uses this temperature for its performance maps ( which are adjusted in real time according to load) so that's why I'm focusing on that way of reducing temps.
Do you plan on data logging different heat ranges? NGK's faq says that the difference between heat ranges is the potential to remove 70 to 100*c. I'm curious to see how cold of a range can be used before plug fouling becomes a problem and what the real world relationship is between coolant/cylinder head temp, timing and horse power is.
There was about 15hp difference between dyno runs with 195* and 215* the last time I dyno'd.
Keep us posted on your findings.
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 10,340
Likes: 4
From: Woodside, CA
Up to a point...
Originally Posted by 002
"It HAS to have a base map, or a limit of advance, otherwise it could just keep advancing, and advance too far. OR it would advance until knock is detected" -dr obnxs
That is how it works. It is constantly advancing until knock and then back 3 degrees, then back up 2, and so on. You just can't hear the knock. Are you saying that you know what maximum timing is because you have seen the table or because that was the most you got with 100 octane?
With the colder t-stat the car should still warm up to 180* at the same rate, but beyond that the 180 should keep the head cooler while moving. While with the stock t-stat there is no way (without fans) it is getting any cooler than what it is set at. Like I mention before, bmw uses this temperature for its performance maps ( which are adjusted in real time according to load) so that's why I'm focusing on that way of reducing temps.
Do you plan on data logging different heat ranges? NGK's faq says that the difference between heat ranges is the potential to remove 70 to 100*c. I'm curious to see how cold of a range can be used before plug fouling becomes a problem and what the real world relationship is between coolant/cylinder head temp, timing and horse power is.
There was about 15hp difference between dyno runs with 195* and 215* the last time I dyno'd.
Keep us posted on your findings.
That is how it works. It is constantly advancing until knock and then back 3 degrees, then back up 2, and so on. You just can't hear the knock. Are you saying that you know what maximum timing is because you have seen the table or because that was the most you got with 100 octane?
With the colder t-stat the car should still warm up to 180* at the same rate, but beyond that the 180 should keep the head cooler while moving. While with the stock t-stat there is no way (without fans) it is getting any cooler than what it is set at. Like I mention before, bmw uses this temperature for its performance maps ( which are adjusted in real time according to load) so that's why I'm focusing on that way of reducing temps.
Do you plan on data logging different heat ranges? NGK's faq says that the difference between heat ranges is the potential to remove 70 to 100*c. I'm curious to see how cold of a range can be used before plug fouling becomes a problem and what the real world relationship is between coolant/cylinder head temp, timing and horse power is.
There was about 15hp difference between dyno runs with 195* and 215* the last time I dyno'd.
Keep us posted on your findings.
With the 100 octane, the knock window value is zero, and there's no evidence of the retard-advance behaviour. It's never detecting knock (until I hit the rev limiter....).
I've seen other listings that show 75 C difference between heat ranges as well. The IK22s still look fine, no fouling. Maybe another range lower will still be fine.. We'll see.
And in general, I like to log data. It's in my blood! So eventually you'll see other data for it.....
I'll keep you all posted.
Matt
That's interesting about the knock window. I was taught that the dme is always pushing timing foward, but my information is for servicing so we don't go that deep into programming.
Can you post some screen shots of the knock window so that I can gain better perspective.
Can you post some screen shots of the knock window so that I can gain better perspective.
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 10,340
Likes: 4
From: Woodside, CA
It's not a physical window...
Originally Posted by 002
That's interesting about the knock window. I was taught that the dme is always pushing timing foward, but my information is for servicing so we don't go that deep into programming.
Can you post some screen shots of the knock window so that I can gain better perspective.
Can you post some screen shots of the knock window so that I can gain better perspective.
Matt
matt,
thank you for posting these quantitative results.
i run 93-94 octane in my supertrapped carnation hai mcs. i've gone back and forth to 91 octane several times to check my seat of the pants results: i've always experienced slightly stronger running, slightly more pronounced in low to mid range, with the higher octane.
looking forward to more of your number crunching!
thank you for posting these quantitative results.
i run 93-94 octane in my supertrapped carnation hai mcs. i've gone back and forth to 91 octane several times to check my seat of the pants results: i've always experienced slightly stronger running, slightly more pronounced in low to mid range, with the higher octane.
looking forward to more of your number crunching!
Originally Posted by Dr Obnxs
The knock window isn't physical. The knock sensor always puts out some voltage, so there's a threshold (RPM dependant, I think) amount of noise that is "ignored". Also, knock sensing is by individual cylinder, so only a certain amount of rotational crank angle is "looked at" to see if one cylinder or another is having knock onset. Then the ECU can retard each cylinder, to keep each one at the best timing. The "knock window energy" is what is plotted in the first two thick lines in the first post, and it has some funky units, and the axis is on the left hand side of the graph. When I finish with my IC testing, I spend some more time logging knock voltage, noise and window to see if I can figure out how they're all related...
Matt
Matt
After re-reading my references, they do imply that there is a base map for igniton timing. So if your not getting any knock signal out of range then I guess that 100 is more than enough for the base map. Now, are you using stock sofware or an aftermarket flash? I'd like to see how it differs with mth or other flashes.
Can you hear the knock when the signal brakes the threashold?
Can you configure your data to have rpm in the x axis?
I tried to log timing at different coolant temps last night, but I over wrote the 180* log and could not get the temp back down once it reached 195*, and this was at 40* ambient. I'll try again today.
Excuse all the questions, I get excited when some else has the same interest in seemingly boring topics.
So, at the outset, I'll simply state, I'm an idiot when it comes to this stuff. I'm putting an Motec M48 in my track car and was counciled by a fairly well known engine builder to go with the pro version for its wide band lambda feature. Ah..okay yeah... another $500...ahhh... so I figured I'd do a little research and found an interesting article that some of you might find interesting as it pertains to achieving an ideal burn. Gets pretty technical, but I found a lot of the concepts enlightening.
http://www.megasquirt.info/PWC/LSU4.htm
http://www.megasquirt.info/PWC/LSU4.htm
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 10,340
Likes: 4
From: Woodside, CA
More stuff....
I've only got an '02 S. Sorry, nothing on a base JCW, but if anyone wants to lend me one...... 
I may be able to convert to RPM. We'll see. Or I'll just measure it again.
Can't hear any knock when this is happening, but it's been cool. I think that when it's hotter, I can hear some slight ping in some situations. The knock sensor is more sensitive than I am.
Matt

I may be able to convert to RPM. We'll see. Or I'll just measure it again.
Can't hear any knock when this is happening, but it's been cool. I think that when it's hotter, I can hear some slight ping in some situations. The knock sensor is more sensitive than I am.
Matt
If you're in the northeast on any given weekend between april and november, you take it on a track. LRP, Watkins glen, New Hampshire...Pocono...dunno about that one.
Originally Posted by Dr Obnxs
I've only got an '02 S. Sorry, nothing on a base JCW, but if anyone wants to lend me one...... 
I may be able to convert to RPM. We'll see. Or I'll just measure it again.
Can't hear any knock when this is happening, but it's been cool. I think that when it's hotter, I can hear some slight ping in some situations. The knock sensor is more sensitive than I am.
Matt

I may be able to convert to RPM. We'll see. Or I'll just measure it again.
Can't hear any knock when this is happening, but it's been cool. I think that when it's hotter, I can hear some slight ping in some situations. The knock sensor is more sensitive than I am.
Matt



