I got in my car a couple hours ago to go get a bite to eat, and realized halfway there that the service engine light was on. The car seemed to be running fine if not normal. How can I check the code? And once I have the code, how can I determine the problem? Is there a chance that if I disconnect the battery to reset the ECU that it will go away? It's making me very nervous/scared..I don't want to drive for fear of damaging the car...

 

Autozone and Checker Auto parts will read you code for free. JUst stop by one and get them to check it. Write down the code number. Ask them to clear it, to see if it comes back. Some places may not clear it, but ask. Post it here. Sometime the list of codes they use is just basic, someone here will tell you the real problem.

 

Buy a Peake code reader- online for $130.

http://www.peakeresearch.com/

 

For the $130 you spend on the code reader, why not invest a few dollars more and get www.digimoto.com software for the laptop. That is if you have a laptop to use. But if not, then that option is also a good one. Go the autozone route and have them check the code. It could be something simple and you can fix yourself. But you will not know until you have it scanned for you. Do let us know what the code is when you get the chance.

Garrett

 

that looks great! are you using it? is anyone else using it. i don't want to hijack this thread, but i've been looking for something like this.

 

Which one are you refering to? Are you refering to the Peake Code Reader? If so, I have not but know a few who have. For the digimoto software, I have been keeping an eye on this and will be purchasing it very soon. If you have a laptop, then this is a good choice as it will give you more info on the code and other info on the car.

Garrett

 

Thanks for the replies, I'll be going by autozone shortly, as I would like to resolve the problem before that code reader would be shipped to me. But I will be looking into that Peake reader

 

this is pretty lame of me but I'm not sure where the diagnostic port is to plug up the code reader?

 

It is located above near the fuse panel on the driver side kick panel. There is a cover you need to snap off.


Garrett

 

that would be why i didn't see it. thanks.

 

For the record, I have the Peake tool and it's great - well worth having. In my case I picked it up to clear the code that was being thrown two or three times a week due to a firmware bug on my 2005 MCS automatic (now resolved with a firmware update). Bugged the heck out of me to have a new car with the SES light on all the time.

I've seen the DigiMoto software and it's nice too, but I don't have a laptop so it's of less use to me.

/gary

 

well, i don't like the light, it worries me, and hopefully after this I wont see it again for a long long time.

the code pulled was as I as suspected - P0136 Rear o2 sensor...
I'm guessing it's failed then? Anything else that it could be? Where can I find a new one if thats the case? I'd rather not have to drive the 90 some odd miles to the nearest dealership.

 

Man that sucks. Looks like we both threw codes after last weekend's install party. I think mine has something to do with the MTH software I loaded Monday. I'll see when my carchip gets here.

Any possibility your rear o2 failure came from the new exhaust install?

 

I don't think so, the sensor is right before the exhaust... What should I do about this? Might it be caused by the spark plugs? I installed Denso Iridium plugs when I did the pulley install...I didn't gap them to anything, just took them out of the box and installed. If it is a bad sensor, where can I get a replacement? Are there any other possibilities of what could be wrong with it?

 

If you didn't support the CAT while you were installing the exhaust guess what? The only thing supporting that CAT was the wiring to your rear 02 sensor. Get under there and check it out. Why do you suspect the spark plugs when the code is indicating 02 sensor. Where did you learn about installing spark plugs right out of the box and not checking the gap first? This is not a good practice, always check the gap and use anti-seize on the threads.

http://www.ngkspark.com.au/index.htm

DIY guide;
http://www.diynetwork.com/diy/diy_ki...278765,00.html

 

I called Chad @ detriot tuned, he said no gapping was necessary. I don't know why it would have something to do with it, maybe messing up the Air/Fuel ratio and burn out the sensor? Got me...Guess I will go back and redo my spark plugs this weekend. What should Denso 1 step colder plugs be gapped to? I think they're IK22s? Furthermore.I didn't realized the wiring was what was holding it up. Wouldn't that have caused a failure on the scene though? not a week later?