Hi motorers!

I've received my Detroit Tuned (Ryephix) bypass valve yesterday and I got it installed today.

First, the installation was scaring me a bit... Taking off the throttle body and surrounding parts was somthing new for me... I've followed Chad (from DT) how-to and everything went good. It took me about 1.5 hour to do the install.

On the road, the car feels much more responsive. It's a bit like Andy's Vacuum Gain System, but it seems to complete the kit! I now have both and my MCS feels a lot more like a supercharged engine... Torque on demand!

Thanks to Chad from Detroit Tuned and Ryan for his excellent work!!

http://www.megaupload.com/?d=25QZIPDU
instructions for the BPV (just wait 45 seconds for the d/l to begin)

 

Chad did mine when I was in Detroit recently. Agree with your assessment.

Chad went out of his way to accommodate my needs while I was there on business. Couldn't recommend him more highly.

But I'm in no hurry to drive in Detroit again! By far, the worst roads and streets I've seen anywhere in the US.

 

DITTO, Great work and efforts on Chads part to accomodate us

Phil:smile:

 

Hey guys!

Thanks for the praise! The bypass valve is a popular item, and with new full photo directions, that includes all the info you need to know how to do the job, it is very easy for anyone to install the valve with basic tools. If you need to just ask a few questions, are ready to place an order, or set up an appointment for an install, I am ready to help any way I can. :smile:

 

I now give you the title of "number 2", as you are now the second person, that I am aware of, who has installed and is using Ryephix #2 and Andy's Vacuum Gain System at the same time. I have this mod for months now and have tried to tell the world about this great combination and never got a single response. Sounds like you did this on your own, for that you get extra credit. After having this multi mod for the past 6 months, I can tell you you will see the benefits of both without any negatives. My fuel economy is not any worse than with Ryephix #2 alone and much better than Ryephix#1. I did the mod to get back some of the torque that I lost when I installed my OBX header and Remus exhaust. It is nice to hear you point out the Torque improvement.

Nice going "Number 2"

Bomboasy

 

Maybe you should consider doing some "Bypass Parties" ala Randy Webb

 

bomboasy,

Thanks for the rating! lol I accept "Number 2" name

I really enjoy both VGS and the Ryephix BPV... It greatly inproved throttle & (mostly) supercharger's response!

So, who's going to be "Number 3"?? lol

 

#3 will be me, I have been talking with Chad about it plus a couple of other mods I have been saving for.

Unfortunately my wife and I have a rule, if we buy something fun we must sell something. So I have been ebaying everything in the basement. I hope she does not miss her Mel Gibson VHS collection...


I really do not miss Detoit Roads, but we have old-tourist-bad-slow-drivers here.

 

Can i be number 3 1/2.. Currently running the Ryephix#2 BPV + AGS + BPV on demand bypass simular to Ryephix#1 but not quite. I use the ODB for Autocross and Drag events.

 

I would be happy to take the show on the road, people just need to give me a call and help set things up.

 

Mugami, can you explain a little more what you call the "on demand bypass"? I am picturing a mechanized lever activated valve. Did you install it one at the time, or did you do both at one go? I started with Ryephix #1 to Ryephix #2 and then added AGS. Why did you do it in the first place? Thanks.

Bomboasy

PS. You can be "Numero 3"

 

I would be happy to take the show on the road, people just need to give me a call and help set things up.

Now you may have started something:smile:. How about providing some cost numbers. Like Randy, I'm sure you will have to set a mininum number to make a trip worth your while. While I'd guess that Ryan wouldn't want to step on Randy's toes, I'm sure there are other things you can offer while your there, ie: Crank Pully install, etc.

 

Sorry mis interpet i have the Vacume Gain System not the AGS from M7 .. me bad. Which i think was meant in the first place.


Acturally had the ODB before the VGS was thought of. When Ryephix first came up with the #1 fix using the Zip tie. The idea of the car being on the charger all the time made sense for the drag racing i was doing. With out it if i did a launch and the rev dropped below the 2k mark the vaulve would open up and i had a terrible bog and wouldnt recover quick enough to make for consistant ET's. Which for handy cap racing was critical. With the vaulve tied shut it wouldnt bog if i went below 2k and had consistant and predictable power. First year i did the Battle of the imports i used Ryephix #1 and won the event. After that i wanted to come up with a simple way that i can shut off the bypass for when i raced, but have it work normally when i wasnt for the improved Gas milage. also make so i didnt have to struggle to place a zip tie on the car.

What i came up with is a total of three designs. Yes you are on the right track with what i came up with. The first one and the one im still using Cost about 8 bucks to make. I went to Home depot bought a 1/4 ball vaulve and two 1/4's hose nipples along with about 1' of 1/4 tubing < i think its 1/4 or 3/8 i cant remember of the top of my head. its whatever the vacum tubing is for the bypass vaulve>. Looped the hose around from the bpv to the intake tubing where i mounted the Ball vaulve then back to the acturator of the BPV. By doing this If you shut the ball vaulve before you start the engine the BPV will remain closed the whole time just like in Ryephix #1. Then all you need to do to allow the BPV to work normally is to open the ball vaulve. This also works if your using the VGS way Andy came up with just make sure the ball vaulve is the last thing inline between the vacum and the acturator.

The other two designs require Tee'ing both before and after the Ball vaulve or the JCW cylinoid use the control the flap for the air box.. use in place of the ball vaulve. and placing a one way air check vaulve inline. This allows air to blow in acturator shut but not allow any vacume to pull it open. At this time the ball vaulve can be cable operated from inside the cab, or the cylinoid via switch when the engine is running. Since at idle the BPV is open it must be allowed to close if the vacume line is cut off.

on the second year i rand the BOTI i lost in the semi. after doing 17 runs back to back RT of .501-.504 for all 17 and ET of 15.101 - 15.119 using my ODB system. IF interested i was able to do an all out run which i dont use in competition of a 13.9

Hope this helps undstand what i did .. why i did it.. and how to make it if you want to use it.

 

Is the Bypass valve compatible with a reduction pulley?

 

Sure it is! And being adjusted properly, it helps a lot getting your full boost.

The stiffer spring also seems to keep the s/c on boost more than before...

I've noticed a little less MPG but I can live with that... I don't care losing 50km per tanks but having fun every km on it!

 

On this post I appear to be number 4 (004) Still, regardless of my number, I'm a happy "bi-guy" with both the VGS and the Ryephix valve--a great combo that really seems to smooth out the throttle response and produce serious pull through the midrange. No effect above 4000rpm, as one would imagine, but smoother from 2500 to 4k.

Is there a market for "pre-owned" bypass valves? Mine is not too bad, and I adjusted the daylight out of it. Same OEM spring, though...

cheers,

 

Hello!! I'm ready to order, but were it is the online link to order with my credit card. Henry

 

You need to call Chad at Detroit Tuned 586.296.6001

 

how does the install of this work in addition with the VGS mod? i thought they were both designed to achieve the same thing - is this correct?

 

Skuzy:
While the VGS exhibits some if the feel our new bypass valve gives, it is not the same. We adjust the valve butterfly to close fully along with adding a stiffer spring to give a mechanical operation. This way we are sure there are no vacuum leaks, now or down the road, and that the spring is always pushing against the valve. So once your off enough vacuum that is pulling it open, it slams shut to start making boost, unlike the VGS that still has the light stock spring and may be looking for the vacuum line to see boost. The idea behind it is finding a better vacuum port. And in some cases that is not good enough. Hope that helps.:smile:

And Henry, your email is on the way!

 

Have you personally tried the VGS? What do you mean by "So once your off enough vacuum that is pulling it open, it slams shut to start making boost, unlike the VGS that still has the light stock spring and may be looking for the vacuum line to see boost."

 

I am number one. I never consider myself a "Bi" because I have VGS and RF#2, but if the shoe fits...

agokart and andy@ross-tech.com, let me pull a chair and pop some popcorn. This is going to be good.

Bomboasy

 

lol

so what can we do with our stock bypass valves after we upgrade?

 

I'm with you!

 

&quot;so what can we do with our stock bypass valves after we upgrade?&quot; Hang it on the wall as a trophy, or go to the dealer and tell them that the quality control of this part sucks. You can quote me.... Bomboasy