I just got done installing an M7 pulley w/o an tension tool, and with nothing in its place either. Its quite simple: follow all of Randys excellent instructions, but when it comes time to break out the tension tool, just start backing out the two 16mm bolts, and the two 10mm bolts. There is a bit of play once you remove the front 16mm bolt, and then you can remove the 10mm, 10mm, and rear 16mm in order. The tensioner comes off the belt with very little effort.

I was struggling with how to get the tensioner back on w/o a tool when I noticed a thin ribbon of metal running the length of the spring that came to a T on the top of the spring keeping it somewhat compressed. If you compress the spring with the tensioner on the ground you will notice a small hole that becomes visable on the thin metal robbon. Have a friend/wife/neighbor/stranger slide a small allen wrench in this hole (long side inserted, short side facing the front of the tensioner) and the spring will stay compressed. Then just reinsert the tensioner and put your belt in place with no hastle. Once all bolts are in and tightened grab onto the allen and give it a yank. The belt is the perfect tension, and you saved yourself $60.

I took a pic of the spring w/ allen inserted but the sprint pic server is down atm. Ill put it up tomorrow. Car runs great, and purrrrrs like a kitten at idle

I hope this makes sense, its 3 am and I just got done installing springs, and a pulley

-Jake

 

So... you like the new feel of the car now??
Any pics?

 

I thought that would have been a given $$/Hp this is hands down the best mod for the mini, if you do the work yourself. Its not snap your neck fast, but the difference is very noticable in the mid-range and top end..bla, bla, bla Not having to downshift at all to pass on the freeway is nice.

I added the pic I took w/ my cell, excuse the bad Microsoft Paint diagram...its all I have at work.

I have this theory that this is how they do it at the factory. I cant imagine any other reason that hole would be in the metal ribbon, and it seemed like there was a pin that had been in the hole before, and made a mark on the tensioner casting (it was really early, so dont quote me on that), which led me to the idea in the first place.

I cant see any reason why anyone needs to do another pulley swap with a tensioner tool. Although the belt seems extremely tight, I was actually suprised how little pressure was on it once I removed the bolts from the tensioner. Even when installing the tensioner with the allen in place the belt fits in nice and snug, so its not like youre going from a completely slack belt, to a tight belt in an instant. I've watched the belt at idle, and cant see any visable damage on either side of the belt.

 

Your PIC looks like an ALIEN ....

Good Job on the install

 

great info....

thx.

 

it's how it looks after 5 rounds.

 

Basically we did the same way... just use 2 allenkeys and a long stick/screwdriver and loosen the tensioner. Good job ey!

 

I had heard about the "screwdriver method" but couldnt find a screwdriver big enough to get the job done. I tried a bunch of different items as prybars, but there really wasnt a place to pry from that I could find, so I just figured out this way.

The 2 allen key idea is a good one though...