Drivetrain (Cooper S) MINI Cooper S (R53) intakes, exhausts, pulleys, headers, throttle bodies, and any other modifications to the Cooper S drivetrain.

Drivetrain Dyno day in GA

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Old 07-27-2005, 12:38 PM
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Dyno day in GA

I dynoed the car today because of a Unichip issue.

90 degrees 55% humidity 29.98 barometric code red air, Altitude 1100 ft

we pulled 197.7 WHP which I have to tell you was a little below my hope for over 210.

WE did pick up 10 whp from the last time when the weather was cooler.

The additions were the Alta CAI vs the Dinan and the Alta IC. + new map from Unichip

Even with a fan on top of the intercooler the temp went up 5 cel from first to third run.

The car feels very good when running it. We picked up considerable low end but I am at the office and the other charts are at home.

Does anybody have a converter to 70 degrees and low humidity at sea level?

I could put in the "race" cam.....hone the intake.......port the supercharger.....I can't figure out what these guys are doing to read 250 without turbo or nitrous.. If you look at my list there is not much left save JLM's short block.

Any ideas or feedback?
 
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Old 07-27-2005, 01:11 PM
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Spider,

I've been talking with lots of folks about engine work. I've learned that taking the Mini beyond 200bhp appears to require a substantial jump in investment and time. But, you've installed many of the components that will apparently help your Mini take full advantage of a higher performance head/cam. You'll spend another $2,000 - $3,000 for that work depending upon who does the install and set-up.
 
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Old 07-27-2005, 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by meb
...I've learned that taking the Mini beyond 200bhp appears to require a substantial jump in investment and time...
Michael, I think you meant 200whp. Getting 200 bhp is relatively cheap for us

Bob, you might find this thread of interest:

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ental+humidity
 
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Old 07-27-2005, 01:29 PM
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Originally Posted by meb
Spider,

I've been talking with lots of folks about engine work. I've learned that taking the Mini beyond 200bhp appears to require a substantial jump in investment and time. But, you've installed many of the components that will apparently help your Mini take full advantage of a higher performance head/cam. You'll spend another $2,000 - $3,000 for that work depending upon who does the install and set-up.
read my signature...I have a Webb motor sports head and a shrick street cam
 
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Old 07-27-2005, 01:35 PM
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Originally Posted by TonyB
Michael, I think you meant 200whp. Getting 200 bhp is relatively cheap for us

Bob, you might find this thread of interest:

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ental+humidity
When corrected on the calculator it is 211 and change and the crank with 12% is 236.88

Which is more like it. That is about what I estimated.

Thanks,

Bob
 
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Old 07-27-2005, 02:42 PM
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Oops on both accounts; Hey Tony, how are you? Yes, I meant 200whp.

Spider, unfortunately, I did not read your sig, just made an assumption...silly given that you lead the reader to your sig. I fully understand your comment now. Sorry.

I don't usually veer too far from the suspension forum because I do not have a lot of experience with engines. I was simply struck with your same thoughts Spider, last week...and I'm beginning with an 05 JCW motor.

Good luck.

Michael
 
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Old 07-27-2005, 07:02 PM
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Originally Posted by meb
Oops on both accounts; Hey Tony, how are you? Yes, I meant 200whp.

Spider, unfortunately, I did not read your sig, just made an assumption...silly given that you lead the reader to your sig. I fully understand your comment now. Sorry.

I don't usually veer too far from the suspension forum because I do not have a lot of experience with engines. I was simply struck with your same thoughts Spider, last week...and I'm beginning with an 05 JCW motor.

Good luck.

Michael
No problem,

I get a lot of things going at the same time and some of my posts can seem "curt" but I am really not that way. I appreciate your contribution

Thanks,

Bob aka SpiderX
 
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Old 07-28-2005, 05:35 AM
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Originally Posted by SpiderX
I dynoed the car today because of a Unichip issue.

90 degrees 55% humidity 29.98 barometric code red air, Altitude 1100 ft

we pulled 197.7 WHP which I have to tell you was a little below my hope for over 210.

WE did pick up 10 whp from the last time when the weather was cooler.

The additions were the Alta CAI vs the Dinan and the Alta IC. + new map from Unichip

Even with a fan on top of the intercooler the temp went up 5 cel from first to third run.

The car feels very good when running it. We picked up considerable low end but I am at the office and the other charts are at home.

Does anybody have a converter to 70 degrees and low humidity at sea level?

I could put in the "race" cam.....hone the intake.......port the supercharger.....I can't figure out what these guys are doing to read 250 without turbo or nitrous.. If you look at my list there is not much left save JLM's short block.

Any ideas or feedback?
I really would like some feedback or ideas from the performance crowd.
 
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Old 07-28-2005, 07:38 AM
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1) Remove your stuff
2) Sell the parts for 1/2 what you paid new
3) Get turbo.

:smile:
 
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Old 07-28-2005, 08:17 AM
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Originally Posted by andy@ross-tech.com
1) Remove your stuff
2) Sell the parts for 1/2 what you paid new
3) Get turbo.

:smile:
have you driven a turbo car and do they modulate power as smooth as the modded cars.

I'm concerned about longevity and service

I considered a new Mini and doing the Helix turbo instead of JCW....but warranty hell has stopped me. lateley not having warranty has bit me in the A$$
 
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Old 07-28-2005, 09:25 AM
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Yep, I drove the Helix test mule and it was very smooth and easy to drive. The boost controller limits boost in the first couple gears so it feels more or less like a 15% pulley'ed car in those gears. The turbo spools up very quickly since the supercharger is delivering more intake air and thus more exhaust gas to spool the turbo. The effect is like having a small turbo on a larger engine but without the breathing limits at higher RPM.

As for reliability and warranty, that's a gamble with any mods, either sticking with the supercharger or adding a turbo to the mix. Personally, if I had 6 large laying around, I'd do it instead of spending the money on incremental power adders that don't get nearly the results of the turbo.

Originally Posted by SpiderX
have you driven a turbo car and do they modulate power as smooth as the modded cars.

I'm concerned about longevity and service

I considered a new Mini and doing the Helix turbo instead of JCW....but warranty hell has stopped me. lateley not having warranty has bit me in the A$$
 
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Old 07-28-2005, 09:29 AM
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Originally Posted by andy@ross-tech.com
Yep, I drove the Helix test mule and it was very smooth and easy to drive. The boost controller limits boost in the first couple gears so it feels more or less like a 15% pulley'ed car in those gears. The turbo spools up very quickly since the supercharger is delivering more intake air and thus more exhaust gas to spool the turbo. The effect is like having a small turbo on a larger engine but without the breathing limits at higher RPM.

As for reliability and warranty, that's a gamble with any mods, either sticking with the supercharger or adding a turbo to the mix. Personally, if I had 6 large laying around, I'd do it instead of spending the money on incremental power adders that don't get nearly the results of the turbo.
I think if I was starting from scratch I would agree I'm too far down the road. I'll add anothe grand or two to the engtine but not 6
 
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Old 07-28-2005, 09:38 AM
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I have a corection it was 199.6 not 197.7 at the wheels factoring atmosphere and drive line about 240
 
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Old 07-28-2005, 12:07 PM
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1/4?

SpiderX,

Just curious, have you done any 1/4mile runs?
 
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Old 07-28-2005, 01:01 PM
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Originally Posted by ditc
SpiderX,

Just curious, have you done any 1/4mile runs?
No interest. I am concerned for my stock clutch. I do roll on from 5-10 mph but no pop the clutch kind of stuff.


Really at this point torque is where it is at for me.........and dialing in the handling.
 
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Old 07-28-2005, 01:15 PM
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What did your a/f numbers look like? Does your program do anything with timing?
 
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Old 07-28-2005, 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by 62Lincoln
What did your a/f numbers look like? Does your program do anything with timing?
Funny you mention that.....I just faxed off my sheets to Josh at UNichip for him to review. Jack and Josh are great to deal with. Josh lives on the dyno and he holds a wealth of information. He is going to look at it I think we are a bit lean and even with 380s I may need more injector. He will see it tomorrow. Hopefully he will do a long distance tune.

I am not sure what this program is doing timing wise.....it is the same one that he used on another car that is very similar to mine. The map I had (Hesco)...I had two chips....blew a code on the first run and since the car has been running pretty good I went back to the "Unichip" map. I have lost some torque but gained hp. I wish there was a Mini tuner in Atlanta who custom tunes. I love the guys at R Speed they like MTH which I can't blame them but my car is beyond what most guys who use MTH do and I'm a little tired of being the Guinea pig. Anyway, I hope Josh will work with me long distance. My car is close and I think a little here and there and it wil be all good. I do want more torque if you al have suggestions
 
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Old 07-28-2005, 09:22 PM
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Originally Posted by SpiderX
No interest. I am concerned for my stock clutch. I do roll on from 5-10 mph but no pop the clutch kind of stuff.


Really at this point torque is where it is at for me.........and dialing in the handling.
Understood..however, it might be a more interesting way to estimate your horspeower (compare times/speed to similar cars on Andy's website) rather than play around with correction factors, etc.... If you're in the high-13s, I am sure you have at least xxxhorsepower
 
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Old 07-29-2005, 02:54 AM
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Originally Posted by ditc
Understood..however, it might be a more interesting way to estimate your horspeower (compare times/speed to similar cars on Andy's website) rather than play around with correction factors, etc.... If you're in the high-13s, I am sure you have at least xxxhorsepower
HMMMMM that is a good idea......thanks for the tip. A few runs certainly won't hurt.......
 
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Old 07-29-2005, 10:05 AM
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If any of you guys sticks a turbo on the car make sure you get solid engine mounts. Delron works best. I have heard several nightmares of stripped off exhaust header mounting bolts. And I have also heard that the cars stay in shop more then on the road. I did hear this from a somewhat biased person, seeing as how he doesn't have a twin charge kit available through him.

I haven't heard of these problems on the helix kit. But I am not going to give the name of the kit that has problems.

Spider, I am positive your clutch will hold up to a few trips down the drag strip. I am still on my stock clutch and don't have a problem with clutch slippage even with the NO2. But I do have a stage three on the way.
 
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Old 07-29-2005, 04:37 PM
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what I have heard is that novice turbo tyros love to get on and off the gas an inordinate amount to hear the whoosh. Guess what that does to the motor movement.
 
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Old 07-30-2005, 12:07 PM
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Getting on and off the gas will do that but I am starting to have the same problem. Yesterday I had an exhaust leak and it turns out that I have broken my third flex joint. I guess it's time for myself to get Delron bushings.

Has anyone else done this on a none turbo car? I know Peter from M7 has.
 
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