Here are the pulleys I will be evaluating. The tool will arrive shortly that is required to pull the stock pulley, then I will detail the arduous installation process. Feel free to call with any questions. No pricing or stock availability information is available yet. The setup may be through Promini (BMP), and the details are still being worked out. There are several tasks that need to be done before the product is ready - but I thought some of you may appreciate a little somthin' somthin'





What you are looking at are two pulleys, a 10% and 15% reduction from stock, and the steel hub that presses onto the supercharger shaft. The hub is on the 15% reduction pulley.

More to come - on this and other cool stuff!

Randy
720-841-1002

 

Those pulleys looked real nice in person. I'm very curious to see the results first hand. :smile:

 

I've heard that this mod is a pretty hard one for the backyard mechanic. Being one of those guys, is this something an average mechanic can accomplish? Does the supercharger have seals under it that need to be replaced after the removal? Being that a supercharger removal is needed to get to the pulley, a specialist is probably the way to go. And really how hard is it to remove the supercharger? And one other note which I'm sure will be asked over an over. Will this be a warrenty voider and will it be detected by the computer system when the dealer does his majic. Thanks for the great pic's and keep us informed.

 

The computer won't reveal it in code, but you can look down and see it. It is a warranty voider if you blow an engine for sure.

The supercharger is very difficult to remove, and the stock pulley is even harder to remove! You don't have to replace any seals, but apparently you do have to be careful with the way you hold the supercharger so you don't lose any oil. It is a different oil that is made of unobtainium.

I think the way to do it is to have different shops around the country set up to do the supercharger mod. BMP is thinking of doing it as an exchange program where they have superchargers with pulleys in stock, and you ship them yours. That's still in the development stage - so the final process has yet to be worked out.

Stay tuned for this mod, and other exciting suspension and brake parts!

 

It looks really good! The deal-maker/breaker for me is going to be finding someone capable of doing the mod correctly.

You might also considering providing a pulley for the hub that would take it back to stock, in case you're selling the car (not that that'd happen) :smile:

Jeff

 

Do you think the transmission is up to the task over the long haul?

 

R

 

R , I think that before a 'sevice network' is set up, any good machine shop would be able to press a hub onto the shaft - as long as you are doing the dirty work of getting it out of the car! Portland is a nice industrial town and competent machinists should be found all over town ...

 

I recall reading somewhere that the MCS engine was beefed up to handle the extra oomph of the blower, any ideas on what was actually done and if this is enough to handle the additional boost created with the smaller pulley?

_________________
<IMG SRC="http://udel.edu/~mm/anime/speed/pict....jpg">

 

Forged crank and rods arre the two main changes but there are a lot of others. Go here for the full scoop:
http://www.maxi-tuner.de/Cooper_Sx.html

PerfPow

 

>>Forged crank and rods arre the two main changes but there are a lot of others. Go here for the full scoop:
>> http://www.maxi-tuner.de/Cooper_Sx.html
>>
>>PerfPow

Thanks- and I thought my German was passable....whew.

 

Sorry, I sent the wrong link. Try this:

http://www.apqv05.dsl.pipex.com/m07-02-11.pdf

PerfPow

 

>>Sorry, I sent the wrong link. Try this:
>>
>>http://www.apqv05.dsl.pipex.com/m07-02-11.pdf
>>
>>PerfPow

Better- though still not sure about how the componants will stand up to the extra boost thrown at it...but I guess only time will tell once people start putting this mod into service.

 

fyi, having done it:

removing tension from the belt tensioner is difficult, requiring a special lever and you have to do it safely in a tight area.

you cannot remove the stock pulley with a conventional puller without risk of damage to the blower case; there isn't room to get the puller blades where they need to go because the pulley is fitted too close to the blower housing. we manufactured a special puller, and it still takes serious removal force.

the bearings in a 14,000 rpm gizmo are not intended to take axial loads from a press; it is possible to get the new hub on, but you cannot press it on. don't even say the word.

we made the hub/pulley separate precisely so subsequent pulley changes could be made while the blower is in the car.

pulleys can be almost any diameter, although 15% is about the smallest that will fit the hub, and yes, we have made a stock size in addition to the 10%. you could get 12.5% if you wanted.

 

>>fyi, having done it:
>>
>>removing tension from the belt tensioner is difficult, requiring a special lever and you have to do it safely in a tight area.
>>
>>you cannot remove the stock pulley with a conventional puller without risk of damage to the blower case; there isn't room to get the puller blades where they need to go because the pulley is fitted too close to the blower housing. we manufactured a special puller, and it still takes serious removal force.
>>
>>the bearings in a 14,000 rpm gizmo are not intended to take axial loads from a press; it is possible to get the new hub on, but you cannot press it on. don't even say the word.
>>
>>we made the hub/pulley separate precisely so subsequent pulley changes could be made while the blower is in the car.
>>
>>pulleys can be almost any diameter, although 15% is about the smallest that will fit the hub, and yes, we have made a stock size in addition to the 10%. you could get 12.5% if you wanted.
>>
>>
>>

Any real world HP numbers with each diam pulley?

 

Beyond the forged Mahle pistons and the forged rods, the compression is lower in the S, and the pistons are sprayed with oil from the underside to control piston dome temps.

We're working on it - stay tuned!!

Randy

 

<<but apparently you do have to be careful with the way you hold the supercharger so you don't lose any oil. It is a different oil that is made of unobtainium.
>>


Most Eatons contain the same synthetic in the nose drive. Simply handling them doesn't release anything. GM and Ford both handle the fluid. GM is less expensive.
Part #12345982
And as a personal note, many owners have been using Redline Synthetic power steering fluid for years with no problems, and...... hold your nose if you open it (stone cold only) it stinks!
:smile:

 

Ah, the good ol' days!

 

Yeah, I remember taking the pictures used in the original post. (no longer hosted)

At the time I was thinking, "hey if you want to risk your warranty go right ahead buddy." That was obviously long before everyone was doing the pulley mod and we had all these hundreds (thousands) of MINIs running around wracking up tens of thousands of problem free miles (25,000+ problem free miles since my pulley install).

Randy did his pulley install shortly after this was originally posted (Randy's car in the pics)

Performance Modifications :: Supercharger Pulley How-To Posted: Jan 28, 2003

About three months later I changed my tune and we did my MINI with method 2 (my car in the pics)

Performance Modifications :: Supercharger pulley installation method 2 How-to Posted: Apr 17, 2003



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:: David Bunting :: North American Motoring :: Report a post to a moderator ::

 

DID it is fun to look back and see these. From a total dismantle of the front end to a under 1 hour to remove and install. Look how far we've come.

 

Thanks for reminding us of the pains that Randy went through for r & d.

Randy has sure refined the whole process.

I hosted the Niagara/ Toronto pulley party last weekend.
He had the job down to a respectable 35 miniutes.

It is allways a pleasure to watch a pro at work.

Cheers,
Jack

 

Whatever happened to the 10% pulley reductions? Before my time.

 

Testing proved the 10% reduction to be a waste of time. Not enough gains for the cost and effort. Torque-wise for maximum punch with minimal risk I feel the 19% is the way to go. It gives a disproportionate boost in torque versus the 15%. In other words, it gives more torque than it should. So I would bet the 10% gives less torque than it should.

 

JCW has a 13.9% reduction right? So 15 is a bit smaller, 17 is even smaller and 19 is even smaller. Yes? Just wondering why all the reductions are in odd numbers. Why not a 14% or 20%?

 

Actually, according to my math from the sizes of the different pulleys, the JCW rounds to 14.0% NOT 13.9 or 13.8 which is usually quoted around here. So the JCW is a 14% reduction.