sign up at this site and check out the mini threads (my rig, mostly) and mostly under construction:

http://www.theoldone.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3237

 

As deerharb says, this block is heavy; 25 lbs. for the support ladder, 75.5 lbs. for the cylinder case and an additional 28 lbs. for the crank. I also have a block to give away. It only has two holes. To get an idea of shipping costs for the block only, from South Central Texas to say, Connecticut is $350. I agree the cooper rods may be a weak link.

 

that crank is pretty, eh?

 

It's always fun when my 2 brain cells can hook up and chat for a little while

Actually, it was "wish power", not "brain power" that considered the swap. Too many other swaps in my life in "easy cars". But, as you can imagine, switching the A/C off every time I pull into traffic or climb a hill is fairly annoying.

 

Then why not wire up a disconnect so it shuts off automatically whenever the throttle is floored? Every motor home in the world with A/C already has this feature.

 

Hmmm...funny, but I don't "floor it" every time I start from a stop. I probably should, since I learned to drive in NJ, but it just never set in for me
Almost EVERY modern car has a WOT A/C interrupt, not just motorhomes. This will obviously not solve my particular concern. Thanks for the thought, though.

 

Then you need to alter your driving style in a different way, by stepping on the gas a little more so you don't have to shut off the A/C...

 

Obviously I know I could change my driving style...the point of my threads is to see where a few horsepower can be found down low. What's your major problem with trying to make the car a little better? If there was a way to get extra torque down low, i surely wouldn't be the only one interested? Did you design it? I'm not saying you're not right...I could drive it differently, but every post you make following mine is either sarcasm or doesn't address the issue. It gives some stupid little quip about your pro solution to change my driving style or forget about 10 extra hp. What's the deal?

 

Huh? Just trying to be helpful here. It wasn't clear at first that it was more part-throttle power you were after (esp with the dyno<2000rpm discussion), so my first suggestion wasn't too useful, sorry. But if you would be satisfied with just the power increase from having the A/C off and are irritated by having to turn it off, then the obvious solution would be to kill the A/C automatically. If you add your own cutout switch it wouldn't have to trip at WOT and you could put it say, at half throttle.

You got PM.

 

Troll alert! An old internet proverb says: Ignore the troll and it will go away...

 

I used to think Troll's only lived under bridges

 

me too

 

There are bridges in PA...

 

Well, I've apologized to BFG9000 for snapping for no apparent reason, and I've eaten crow and tried to change my driving style...moved my usual "launch RPM" up about a thousand. It's going to take some getting used to, me being a troll and all, but I think I'll get the hang of it.

I hope everyone can forgive me

 

stupid question - would a SRT-4 engine fit?

 

My Volvo interrupts well before WOT, so I think this is definitely something to look into.

 

https://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/showthread.php?t=33482

https://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/showthread.php?t=45294

 

Just couldn't help posting my thoughts about your interesting project. Just out of curiosity, have you considered a diesel engine? You stated that you want ~135hp/215lb/ft tq.... sounds very much like a diesel configuration.