Drivetrain 19% + 4% crank pulley
Originally Posted by spillman
Here they are. And for all of you that said the intercooler wouldn't make a difference... Today was very humid and hot so the numbers are a little low. The dyno was a dyno jet.
I've always thought that an intercooler might help on 90+ degree days. But I SERIOUSLY doubt the need for an intercooler on less than 90 degree days. 98% of my daily driving is done at temps LESS than 90 degrees. Thus an intercooler makes NO sense whatsoever for me. It's also interesting that you have a header AND the 4% crank thingy which makes your MINI a more heavily modified car. Also the 4% crank PLUS a 19% pulley could add some SERIOUS "uncharted" heat. I'm still not convinced (and this isn't evidence) that a typical pulley, intake, exhaust, ECU MINI would benefit from a larger intercooler even in 90 degree weather.
Originally Posted by greatgro
It's interesting that at 80-something degrees there's only a 2hp difference while at 90+ degrees there is a much bigger difference in power.
I've always thought that an intercooler might help on 90+ degree days. But I SERIOUSLY doubt the need for an intercooler on less than 90 degree days. 98% of my daily driving is done at temps LESS than 90 degrees. Thus an intercooler makes NO sense whatsoever for me. It's also interesting that you have a header AND the 4% crank thingy which makes your MINI a more heavily modified car. Also the 4% crank PLUS a 19% pulley could add some SERIOUS "uncharted" heat. I'm still not convinced (and this isn't evidence) that a typical pulley, intake, exhaust, ECU MINI would benefit from a larger intercooler even in 90 degree weather.
I've always thought that an intercooler might help on 90+ degree days. But I SERIOUSLY doubt the need for an intercooler on less than 90 degree days. 98% of my daily driving is done at temps LESS than 90 degrees. Thus an intercooler makes NO sense whatsoever for me. It's also interesting that you have a header AND the 4% crank thingy which makes your MINI a more heavily modified car. Also the 4% crank PLUS a 19% pulley could add some SERIOUS "uncharted" heat. I'm still not convinced (and this isn't evidence) that a typical pulley, intake, exhaust, ECU MINI would benefit from a larger intercooler even in 90 degree weather.
Thinking of the wrong temps.
Originally Posted by greatgro
But I SERIOUSLY doubt the need for an intercooler on less than 90 degree days. 98% of my daily driving is done at temps LESS than 90 degrees. Thus an intercooler makes NO sense whatsoever for me.
But the IC is a good thing. At some point, the air will be cold enough to cool the charge down (this would be the equivalent of an IC that is too big). As the air gets warmer, it takes less heat out via the IC, and the power delta of an IC goes up.
I wonder how the dyno graphs would change if there were done in a wind tunnel (like F1 stuff) or while driving on the road. More airflow over the IC.....
Matt
Originally Posted by Dr Obnxs
Huh? Why is making a less dense charge be of no interest? This is confusing. You could remove the IC and get rid of the pressure drop then..... and the drag from the hood scoop!
But the IC is a good thing. At some point, the air will be cold enough to cool the charge down (this would be the equivalent of an IC that is too big). As the air gets warmer, it takes less heat out via the IC, and the power delta of an IC goes up.
I wonder how the dyno graphs would change if there were done in a wind tunnel (like F1 stuff) or while driving on the road. More airflow over the IC.....
Matt
But the IC is a good thing. At some point, the air will be cold enough to cool the charge down (this would be the equivalent of an IC that is too big). As the air gets warmer, it takes less heat out via the IC, and the power delta of an IC goes up.
I wonder how the dyno graphs would change if there were done in a wind tunnel (like F1 stuff) or while driving on the road. More airflow over the IC.....
Matt
Great 19+4 test.
Thanks for sharing the results. Looks like a fantastic ratio of TQ increase per dollar spent. Unless I read the graph incorrectly, with the TMIC you got +13TQ for about $140. With a stock IC only a little less (+10). And it was not just a shift to the low rpm's, it was nearly full range with little or no significant crossover.
Oh no, look out.
Here come the flames to say that your engine is about to vibrate itself into harmonic oblivion. Just don't drive too long at 1600rpm.
Once again, great info.
Oh no, look out.
Here come the flames to say that your engine is about to vibrate itself into harmonic oblivion. Just don't drive too long at 1600rpm.
Once again, great info.
Spillman, the dyno curves give the appearance that the stock crank pulley gives better hp/torque 'under the curve', as well as more consistent, smooth power, as compared to the 4% crank pulley. The curves make it appear that the 4% crank pulley is resulting in some loss of linearity in power; can you feel the difference the curves seem to show? Is the variability in the 4% curve most likely due to the computer altering a/f and/or timing?
This is good info, congrats on following through, and your improvements!
This is good info, congrats on following through, and your improvements!
Spillman,
Thank you for the data. Know that your experiment took a lot of work and your posting exposes you to a lot of questions and potential criticism.
My simple analysis of the curves is that I prefer blue over purple; the stock crank pulley, the 19% supercharger pulley and the Alta TMIC. The blue curve and purple curve appear identical except at high RPM's and diverge only at peak HP's. Is this a correct reading of the data? (my computer screen doesn't resolve the colored curves very well)
Regards,
John Petrich in Seattle
Thank you for the data. Know that your experiment took a lot of work and your posting exposes you to a lot of questions and potential criticism.
My simple analysis of the curves is that I prefer blue over purple; the stock crank pulley, the 19% supercharger pulley and the Alta TMIC. The blue curve and purple curve appear identical except at high RPM's and diverge only at peak HP's. Is this a correct reading of the data? (my computer screen doesn't resolve the colored curves very well)
Regards,
John Petrich in Seattle
Spillman and all,
I think that I just mis-posted. Took another couple of looks at the screen. Couldn't understand why the stock crank pulley appeared so much better to me than the 4% crank pulley. Blue is better than purple, but blue is the 4% crank pulley not the stock crank pulley as I originally thought. Guess I answered my own question. Haven't had my coffee yet and should have used my wife's computer with the better screen and video card.
Sorry,
John Petrich in Seattle
I think that I just mis-posted. Took another couple of looks at the screen. Couldn't understand why the stock crank pulley appeared so much better to me than the 4% crank pulley. Blue is better than purple, but blue is the 4% crank pulley not the stock crank pulley as I originally thought. Guess I answered my own question. Haven't had my coffee yet and should have used my wife's computer with the better screen and video card.
Sorry,
John Petrich in Seattle
Spillman,
Obviously your car is optimally tuned for the 19% only since you are running the GIAC and bigger injectors. Likely we are not seeing the full potential of the 19+4 combo. From looking at the AFR's etc. would you care to comment on whether or not you feel there is more to be gotten from the 19+4 by simply getting a better tune (apexi, MTH, Uni, etc).
Thanks again, great info.
Obviously your car is optimally tuned for the 19% only since you are running the GIAC and bigger injectors. Likely we are not seeing the full potential of the 19+4 combo. From looking at the AFR's etc. would you care to comment on whether or not you feel there is more to be gotten from the 19+4 by simply getting a better tune (apexi, MTH, Uni, etc).
Thanks again, great info.
Originally Posted by bouray
Spillman,
Obviously your car is optimally tuned for the 19% only since you are running the GIAC and bigger injectors. Likely we are not seeing the full potential of the 19+4 combo. From looking at the AFR's etc. would you care to comment on whether or not you feel there is more to be gotten from the 19+4 by simply getting a better tune (apexi, MTH, Uni, etc).
Thanks again, great info.
Obviously your car is optimally tuned for the 19% only since you are running the GIAC and bigger injectors. Likely we are not seeing the full potential of the 19+4 combo. From looking at the AFR's etc. would you care to comment on whether or not you feel there is more to be gotten from the 19+4 by simply getting a better tune (apexi, MTH, Uni, etc).
Thanks again, great info.
spillman,
Thanks for the hard work! I am wondering if you can give us the file in excel form or raw data. The problem with the graph is the jumpyness of the curves. (not caused by the crank pulley just normal dyno data)If the dyno shop would have smoothed it one more time it would be much clearer as to what is going on.
Also thanks for using the theroeticalSC redline for the 23% runs. With the raw data from the run we can calculate the area under the curve with this and find out if that extra 15WHP and 15Ft torque at the lower RPM offsets the lower redline.
One thing i think is promising is that a (23%)6800RPM shift that drops to 5500 had about 10-15more HP and torque than the 19% car shifting from 7100 to 5800! Next is the drags!
Also these look like single runs, how much time was there between runs? Did you do 3 runs of each? I ask because if you let the car cool down too much you may be loosing power.(thick oil, engine not up to temp, spark plugs to cool) It is always best to do at least 3 runs and use the average or the last run of the 3 to judge them by.
Definitely there was knock at 5500 and at 6200 with the stock IC. Obviously that is gone with the cooler charge.
Having AFR's would be great, please let me know if you can get those. Also if you have timing curves of all of those that would be great. We can then see what the ECU is doing with the added boost. Is it pulling extra timing because it is outside of its normal amount of boost it sees? Or is it holding the same timing.
From this was can't say if the 19+4 is bad or not because we don't know if the ECU is doing weird things with the timing or fuel because of the added boost. If the ECU tuner was smart, anything over the normal amount tuned for, they would be pulling timing and adding fuel for saftey.
The only way to compare 19+4 to the 19% is to have an equally tuned ECU program for both. Both tuned to the same AFR, both tuned to their optimal timing, and things like that.
Obivously the IC cools the air much better than the stock part, a whopping 39 degrees! This definitely acounts for some of the HP
The one thing that i think this car needs is an under driven Alternator pulley. This will eliminate any excess drag caused by the ALT spinning faster. Look out for these very soon.
Maybe as more and more people dyno their cars, people can post their timing curves, and AFR's. This would really help everyone compare Exactly what is going on. This shouldn't be too hard because most all dyno shops have an OBD reader.
Fun things to come, again this does show the IC at work. Thank spillman!
Thanks for the hard work! I am wondering if you can give us the file in excel form or raw data. The problem with the graph is the jumpyness of the curves. (not caused by the crank pulley just normal dyno data)If the dyno shop would have smoothed it one more time it would be much clearer as to what is going on.
Also thanks for using the theroeticalSC redline for the 23% runs. With the raw data from the run we can calculate the area under the curve with this and find out if that extra 15WHP and 15Ft torque at the lower RPM offsets the lower redline.
One thing i think is promising is that a (23%)6800RPM shift that drops to 5500 had about 10-15more HP and torque than the 19% car shifting from 7100 to 5800! Next is the drags!
Also these look like single runs, how much time was there between runs? Did you do 3 runs of each? I ask because if you let the car cool down too much you may be loosing power.(thick oil, engine not up to temp, spark plugs to cool) It is always best to do at least 3 runs and use the average or the last run of the 3 to judge them by.
Definitely there was knock at 5500 and at 6200 with the stock IC. Obviously that is gone with the cooler charge.
Having AFR's would be great, please let me know if you can get those. Also if you have timing curves of all of those that would be great. We can then see what the ECU is doing with the added boost. Is it pulling extra timing because it is outside of its normal amount of boost it sees? Or is it holding the same timing.
From this was can't say if the 19+4 is bad or not because we don't know if the ECU is doing weird things with the timing or fuel because of the added boost. If the ECU tuner was smart, anything over the normal amount tuned for, they would be pulling timing and adding fuel for saftey.
The only way to compare 19+4 to the 19% is to have an equally tuned ECU program for both. Both tuned to the same AFR, both tuned to their optimal timing, and things like that.
Obivously the IC cools the air much better than the stock part, a whopping 39 degrees! This definitely acounts for some of the HP
The one thing that i think this car needs is an under driven Alternator pulley. This will eliminate any excess drag caused by the ALT spinning faster. Look out for these very soon.
Maybe as more and more people dyno their cars, people can post their timing curves, and AFR's. This would really help everyone compare Exactly what is going on. This shouldn't be too hard because most all dyno shops have an OBD reader.
Fun things to come, again this does show the IC at work. Thank spillman!
Is anybody running the Eurosport oversized alternator pulley available from minituner's product section? They don't say what the oversize amount is. Judging for the photo, someone ventured a guess of in excess of +10%. No undercharging was experienced by someone who installed it.
The alta-nator pulley as we have named it, will be a 5-10% larger size. At minimum a 5% size so it offsets the 4% pulley. 10% maybe a little much for high electrical load at low rpms. We will have to see.
'm new here & from Malaysia!
I have a JCW & would like to fit the 2% oversize crank pulley. I already have the TMIC. Will i need to remap the ECU? What would the max rev limit be if i would to have a custom ecu?
Sorry for the question but i'm really new to modding. Thanks for the help.
I have a JCW & would like to fit the 2% oversize crank pulley. I already have the TMIC. Will i need to remap the ECU? What would the max rev limit be if i would to have a custom ecu?
Sorry for the question but i'm really new to modding. Thanks for the help.
emini,
No final pricing yet, but we will be competative with them.
Installation isn't easy, maybe Randy will do Alta-nator pulley parties!
Alvinjn,
I would highly recommend a chip of some sorts. the pulley will give you more boost, which will give you more power, but a "17%" tuned chip would be that much better.
No final pricing yet, but we will be competative with them.
Installation isn't easy, maybe Randy will do Alta-nator pulley parties!
Alvinjn,
I would highly recommend a chip of some sorts. the pulley will give you more boost, which will give you more power, but a "17%" tuned chip would be that much better.
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