PHEW that install was interesting...and it's not quite over. It's 82 and humid tonight - the past two hours were spent 1/2 working on the install, 1/2 ringing out my shirt and wiping my face All in all I'm impressed with the parts quality and install. The flap isn't working, however I found a thread on Mini2 that describes my problem, and like that poster, I did not forcefully push down the red pin connector into the harness for fear of breaking it. However it seems it must be fully pushed in (I'll try a small driver in the morning) to properly power the flap.

To anyone doing the install it's fairly easy, but take your time. The hardest part was doing the vaccum line, as the unit is almost inaccesible, and if you're like me with large hands, very hard to work with. I found it easiest to reach your hand down on the unit, putting it in your palm. You can ease the line out with your index and thumb this way. Detatch the extension line from the new airbox and hold it in your hand as you go in the same way, to join it to he unit and the existing line. It takes a little patience, and you have to do it all by touch - can't see a thing. But it only took about 5 min once I figuered out a hand position.

When you remove the stock bottom section of the box, pull it forward and the rubber inserts on the bottom will slide out. The new box has new inserts installed, just push down on it and the posts will pop in - don't install the new one the same way you took the old one off.

Get a $5 crimp tool if you don't have one, pliers of any kind will not work on the crimp connector. They give you two...any yup I used both. Then I went to wallyworld and got a new box of connectors and a tool The stock connectors are 10-12ga, and are a little large IMO. I got 14-16 and it fit much more snug on the wires.

I have to detail the engine tomorow - everything is covered in sweat.

Best tip - don't try this at night.

Oh yeah - WHY DOESNT THIS DAMN $27k CAR HAVE AN UNDER HOOD LIGHT!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!

 

I pushed the pin connector with a small hex driver before I left for work this morning. It works well now! The difference isn't night and day, but no intake is. The sound is about 2x as loud as stock abover 4500rpm, nothing real loud, just a nice sound. Nothing like an open cone on the throttlebody as far as volume. The revs from 4500-7000 are definitely a touch snappier. Where stock it felt like after 5000 the progression would slow down just a tick, this feels like it's very flat all the way to redline. Very smooth.

 

Do NOT force the connector pin into the housing!

Release the connector from the cavity in the fuse box. Looking at the connector you will see two 'straps' or locks along the sides. On the narrow sides of the connector housing you will see where the two locks clip into place. It's the angled ends of these locks that you are looking at that clip the locks into place. You only need to remove the one on the side of the connector where the new wire goes in. Use a jeweler's screwdriver tip or pocket knife blade to lift up on the edge of the lock and it will pop loose. You should not have to release the other end. With the lock removed, push the pin into the cavity, orienting the pin the same as the neighboring ones (look at the crimped end). Double-check the position where the wire is to go, since removing is a bit of a pain. It will slide all the way in with a little 'click'. Tug on the wire to make sure it's locked in. once this is done, snap the lock bar back onto the connector and plug the connector back into the fuse box and you are done.

You risk damaging the connector as well as the fuse box itself if you force the pin into place. It might not be apparent at first, but if you ever have to remove the connector, it will not mate up properly again afterwards in some cases.

Most of the MINI's electrical connectors use this double-locking scheme.

 

I'll pop it off at lunch and take a look, thanks!

 

Thanks for the instruction - I popped it open and snapped right in - I hadn't even pushed it 1/2 way down, it just barely made contact - now it is in correctly! Thank you!

 

OK, one question - when I was out putting the pin in correctly, my stupid-azz didn't securely snap the harness back into the fuse box! It was not making full contact, and set off the SES light when I left for home. I snapped it back in. How long before the light goes out?

 

OK it took 3 cycles - all is back to well

 

how about some pics?

 

Sure - what do you want to see?

 

I also recently installed the JCW intake on my 04 MCS and appreciated the tips in this thread about the fuse box connection ( I didn't have mine corrected properly either until I read this tread). So thanks for the info.

BTW the intake is pretty nice I like the quiet operation in normal driving, but I'm finding myself stepping on the gas to hear the whine. It seems like the car has a little extra umph (maybe a little smoother at the higher rpm range)but that could just be the disconnected battery reset of the ecu. I was pretty sure the valve was opening when I was over 4500 rpm out on the road but wasn't completely sure until I ran the car parked up to 4500 with the hood open.... it's probably twice as loud normal... definately noticable.