Hello,
I'll be installing the Helix Short Shifter next week and was hoping you could share you tips, Tricks, and short cuts for the install.


Any suggestions or tips would be Great!!


MCS, Alta CAI, 15% Pulley, EBC Green Stuff, Chrome Interior kit, Iridum IK22 Plugs, Catch Can, Autometer Boost Gauge, Oil Pressure Gauge, PIAA 540s 85w

 

The only surprise is how hard the socket stays on the ball at the end of the lever (shift lever). If you snap a visegrip on the shaft then you can use the visegrip to pry against to remove the socket. This way there is no force applied to any other parts in the shift mechanism. But I have only done it once. Then the socket goes back on soo much easier than it came off. Worrisome easy. As in, maybe I should do that again just to be sure. Your call.

Vince

 

Don't over tighten the allen head screw. Use loctite.

You don't have to drop the whole exhaust, just disconnect from the cat and drop the frontmost hanger.

Replace your exhaust gasket if it's been out more than a couple times.

Unclip the O2 sensor wire before removing the heat shield.

You don't have to break the plastic gearbox cover to get it off, but you're a better man than me if you can remove it w/o smashing it

Use a large pliers to pry the socket off the ball. Grab the socket cable and just kind of roll it off at 90 degrees.

Get some shrink wrap from HD and shrink it over the allen head screw to keep it from backing out.

You can get the cable back onto the ball with a good hard shove.

If there is a trick to making the heat shield clear both the exhaust and the shifter I don't know what it is. It took me a couple trys to get it right.

When you reinstall the heat shield, replace the single machine screw first. Don't tighten anything on the heat shield until all the fasteners are started.

 

I've taken the socket off and on several times and it always goes on relatively easy. I wouldn't worry about it.

 

I also installed this short shifter, One complaint I have, is I bent my shift cable when i try to "pull off" the cable. After some minor moving and pinching i was able to make it useable., I had to remove it once again. This time I used a wood block and a prybar ( A long screw driver will work just the same) using the wood block and a pivot point(along the center tunnel) and just pry at the outer seem of the ball-cup it pops off with little work and little damage to the rest of the equipment.

Motor ON!
MIke
See you at the dragon!!

 

This is GREAT info and exactly what I was looking for!!


Thanks! Thanks! Thanks!

 

Use channel-locks to remove the cable from the ball. Only took one try. :smile:


When putting the cable back onto the ball, place a piece of wood
over the cable and tap it in gently with a mallet. one try.

The headshield is much easier to shape using a mallet and tapping it
than bending it with your hands.

I used locktite blue on the setscrew and covered it with e-tape.
I let the locktite dry over night before taking it out for a spin.

 

I realize how old this thread is, but I thought I'd give my tip on getting the bottom cover off. I put a nail in a vice and bent it to about a 45 degree angle and then clamped it in some pliers and used that to release the clips.

 

harbor freight sells orange handled picks for like 2 $, buy them they make that white cover come off super easy, they also make it easy fishing the washers out when you drop them

to fit mine, all I did was snap off some of the white cover's internal bracing and then there was no more rub, I snapped off only the center braces from the X to the end opposite the holes

very very easy to install, but I have a lift not sure how it is if you are lying on your back

http://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece...set-66836.html