Drivetrain Help Gurus the dealer is claiming that
Originally Posted by SpiderX
my ECU is bad most likely due to the Unichip/or Giac or mods They want $1600.
I just read your sig and your mods. Sorry I have sigs turned off!
"No way" is an awefully confident answer but if I was told my ECU failed I'd defintely start with the things connected to my ECU. I definately wouldnt rule out the pilo coil thing either. I've personally had an ecu fail due to aftermarket ignition in the past.
That said, I'm not sure its a ECU problem but I dont have all the facts. How long has that cam been installed?
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Cheese
"No way" is an awefully confident answer but if I was told my ECU failed I'd defintely start with the things connected to my ECU. I definately wouldnt rule out the pilo coil thing either. I've personally had an ecu fail due to aftermarket ignition in the past.
That said, I'm not sure its a ECU problem but I dont have all the facts. How long has that cam been installed?
--
Cheese
Sounds like the dealer *may be* finger pointing a bit early. I would do as the other poster suggested:
1) Remove the Unichip completely
2) Have the codes cleared
3) Wait for a reoccurence
4) Take it back to that dealer or another, and see what they say
Since the Unichip *does* interface with the ECU in a very direct manner, I can't believe that they would say "no way" that it could be responsible. There could be something as simple as a pushed pin in the Unichip harness, not caused by the Unichip but by the install/deinstall process, or it could be that something internal to the Unichip or the harness failed, causing the relevant pin or wire to be shorted to ground or opened. Normally you would hope that the ECU itself has some internal protection from damage caused by shorts to ground or +12V on the wrong pin, but I can't say for sure.
One other thing to think about, I think you mentioned the UniChip *and* the GIAC flash - I recall some conversation about it being specifically a bad thing to run the UniChip in combination with an ECU flash program - essentially the UniChip expects the stock mapping to be in place, and by "stacking" the UniChip on top of GIAC or Powerchips or whatever, you could essentially do some bad stuff to the engine. The recommendation was to get the dealer to reflash the stock ECU code prior to installation of the UniChip.
Before I'd spend that amount of money to get it fixed, I would probably get a 2ndary MAP sensor from parts and swap it in.
For more relevant information on this kind of problem, {not to stir up trouble} search for "Plasma Booster"
1) Remove the Unichip completely
2) Have the codes cleared
3) Wait for a reoccurence
4) Take it back to that dealer or another, and see what they say
Since the Unichip *does* interface with the ECU in a very direct manner, I can't believe that they would say "no way" that it could be responsible. There could be something as simple as a pushed pin in the Unichip harness, not caused by the Unichip but by the install/deinstall process, or it could be that something internal to the Unichip or the harness failed, causing the relevant pin or wire to be shorted to ground or opened. Normally you would hope that the ECU itself has some internal protection from damage caused by shorts to ground or +12V on the wrong pin, but I can't say for sure.
One other thing to think about, I think you mentioned the UniChip *and* the GIAC flash - I recall some conversation about it being specifically a bad thing to run the UniChip in combination with an ECU flash program - essentially the UniChip expects the stock mapping to be in place, and by "stacking" the UniChip on top of GIAC or Powerchips or whatever, you could essentially do some bad stuff to the engine. The recommendation was to get the dealer to reflash the stock ECU code prior to installation of the UniChip.
Before I'd spend that amount of money to get it fixed, I would probably get a 2ndary MAP sensor from parts and swap it in.
For more relevant information on this kind of problem, {not to stir up trouble} search for "Plasma Booster"
Last edited by BigBrownDog; Mar 4, 2005 at 12:51 PM. Reason: more detail
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If a service order was written up(and if they looked at your car, it was) this problem is in MINI's system and any dealer you may take it to next will know about your ECU problem- and your mods. Makes it tough to shop a problem around to different dealers.
Originally Posted by BigBrownDog
Sounds like the dealer *may be* finger pointing a bit early. I would do as the other poster suggested:
1) Remove the Unichip completely
2) Have the codes cleared
3) Wait for a reoccurence
4) Take it back to that dealer or another, and see what they say
Since the Unichip *does* interface with the ECU in a very direct manner, I can't believe that they would say "no way" that it could be responsible. There could be something as simple as a pushed pin in the Unichip harness, not caused by the Unichip but by the install/deinstall process, or it could be that something internal to the Unichip or the harness failed, causing the relevant pin or wire to be shorted to ground or opened. Normally you would hope that the ECU itself has some internal protection from damage caused by shorts to ground or +12V on the wrong pin, but I can't say for sure.
One other thing to think about, I think you mentioned the UniChip *and* the GIAC flash - I recall some conversation about it being specifically a bad thing to run the UniChip in combination with an ECU flash program - essentially the UniChip expects the stock mapping to be in place, and by "stacking" the UniChip on top of GIAC or Powerchips or whatever, you could essentially do some bad stuff to the engine. The recommendation was to get the dealer to reflash the stock ECU code prior to installation of the UniChip.
Before I'd spend that amount of money to get it fixed, I would probably get a 2ndary MAP sensor from parts and swap it in.
For more relevant information on this kind of problem, {not to stir up trouble} search for "Plasma Booster"
1) Remove the Unichip completely
2) Have the codes cleared
3) Wait for a reoccurence
4) Take it back to that dealer or another, and see what they say
Since the Unichip *does* interface with the ECU in a very direct manner, I can't believe that they would say "no way" that it could be responsible. There could be something as simple as a pushed pin in the Unichip harness, not caused by the Unichip but by the install/deinstall process, or it could be that something internal to the Unichip or the harness failed, causing the relevant pin or wire to be shorted to ground or opened. Normally you would hope that the ECU itself has some internal protection from damage caused by shorts to ground or +12V on the wrong pin, but I can't say for sure.
One other thing to think about, I think you mentioned the UniChip *and* the GIAC flash - I recall some conversation about it being specifically a bad thing to run the UniChip in combination with an ECU flash program - essentially the UniChip expects the stock mapping to be in place, and by "stacking" the UniChip on top of GIAC or Powerchips or whatever, you could essentially do some bad stuff to the engine. The recommendation was to get the dealer to reflash the stock ECU code prior to installation of the UniChip.
Before I'd spend that amount of money to get it fixed, I would probably get a 2ndary MAP sensor from parts and swap it in.
For more relevant information on this kind of problem, {not to stir up trouble} search for "Plasma Booster"

[QUOTE=BigBrownDog]Sounds like the dealer *may be* finger pointing a bit early. I would do as the other poster suggested:
1) Remove the Unichip completely
2) Have the codes cleared
3) Wait for a reoccurence
4) Take it back to that dealer or another, and see what they say
The reoccurence happens within minutes of clearing
1) Remove the Unichip completely
2) Have the codes cleared
3) Wait for a reoccurence
4) Take it back to that dealer or another, and see what they say
The reoccurence happens within minutes of clearing
Originally Posted by WindMeUp
Have you tried putting the ECU back to stock and seeing if it still throws the code? (I know, it sounds obvious... just trying to help)
I'm more p!@#$d that there are tens of thousands of flashed/chipped cars and I heve never read anything about damaging the ECU. The problem is that I am guilty of the mods so it is just too easy to blame the mods.
What error code did it throw?
You have quite a bit of mods on your car - where were you on the mod progression when the problem hit? Was it immediately after the UniChip? Was it after the throttle body? What mods can you immediately rule out?
You have quite a bit of mods on your car - where were you on the mod progression when the problem hit? Was it immediately after the UniChip? Was it after the throttle body? What mods can you immediately rule out?
Originally Posted by jlm
how about this:
have the dealer change the ECU with the understanding that if it doesn't fix the problem, they take it out and no charge. otherwise, they were right.
have the dealer change the ECU with the understanding that if it doesn't fix the problem, they take it out and no charge. otherwise, they were right.
I'm wondering if it isn't a malfunctioning sensor or a problem between the sensor and the ECU. I suppose they checked that. I hope they just didn't try to reflash the car and then threw their hands up when it threw the code again.
Originally Posted by SpiderX
a few weeks....the fault condition precedes the cam
Boy you're living on the edge.
Originally Posted by greatgro
You mean you already had a fault code and when ahead and had a head and cam installed?
Boy you're living on the edge.
Boy you're living on the edge.
I would assume the dealer is right and have them put in a new ECU. If it doesn't solve the problem, they can remove it and you have eliminated that as the source of trouble. If it does solve the problem, yippee but then you need to figure out what whacked the old ECU, if anything.


