I have been getting problem holding boost and hear a lot of fluttering on throttle lift. I have a tune and some other mods so it was time for an upgrade. I got the Alta DV because I had a few other parts and seem to like them. This kit is not complete and I am very unhappy with it. I think they assume the factory solenoid is not a point of failure. Its well know the Yellow "O" ring is prone to failure and cracks ect. They chose to use this factory old wore out piece to complete their kit. Otherwise, you have to use your original part. The part is not sold separetly meaning you have to buy a new factory solenoid to remove the O ring. This in my estimation is not the smartest or most effective way to do things.

Alta's marketing and claims say - "Thick Diaphragm: A common problem with the stock CRV diaphragm is ripping in higher boost levels and normal wear and tear. The stock part is made of silicone and rubber with no reinforcement to it. So when it starts to fail, it fails quickly. The ALTA CRV has a high quality rubber diaphragm with reinforcement to keep it lasting for the life of your car." This is completely false because it reuses the factory part which is the reason your likely looking for an upgrade.

Second, Its not a complete kit. You have to buy a boost port which is an extra $70. Many suggest the NM boost port but that one doesn't come with a nipple or bung. I guess you have to go on a wild goose chase to find that part to connect the two.

Third complaint. If your like me and have problems with the stock part your going to get a kick out of this. You have to buy a new factory solenoid to scavenge the yellow O ring. Another $70 - $150! Why not just replace the broken one with a the new one you have to buy to complete the kit? Just saying.
Grand total to get this working is AROUND $360!!!!!

Suggestion. Go with the well know and reputible products from forge or dv+. They are complete kits and will save you time, effort, frustration and will be a complete upgrade instead of Frankenstein of mismatched parts that may or may not fail in the short term. Those popular options range between $170 - $300. still a very solid price advantage!
I was going to throw my hands up in the air and give up. Maybe sell on here for a loss but the guys at Outmotoring.com came to the rescue! They understood the problem and offered to take the part back.

 

Did you end up staying with the Alta or return it and go with another?

As stated in another thread, when I do change mine, I plan on using the Forge DV. Looks like a good product, good reviews etc.

ECS did post a link to a replacement O-ring in another thread

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-bremmen-.../1295n464~brp/

 

Are you referring to this product?
https://www.outmotoring.com/alta-com...diaphragm.html

I didn't think Alta was still making those. Also, which model year is your Mini? That DV will only work on the N14 engines, since the N18 doesn't operate with vacuum in the intake manifold. And, the rubber o-ring isn't the weak spot on the OEM diverter valve, its the internal diaphragm that has the issues. See pictures here:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...diaphragm.html

The Forge valve is a much more robust alternative, and the N18 version will tap off the vacuum pump and use the OEM diverter valve control to actuate. Another solution appears to be the newer TurboSmart aluminum diverter valves with the internal electric actuator. I have had the Forge unit installed for the past 4+ years and 100k+ miles with zero issues.

 

It pulled up for the n18 on outmotoring.com. I didn't realize Alta pulled it from their site until afterwards. I think the only reason I got that particular one was it seemed like a simple install. I was wrong. Also the heat (100+ where I live). I can only picture myself melting while spending an hour working on my car. Not ideal.

any supporting info on it not working with the vacuum issue? I may just run the stock replacement I ordered and see where things go.

I have a loss of boost somewhere and its more to diagnose that before I have to go to the mechanic again. I have gone down the wrong route and replaced to jb+ which seems to be working on another members car. Why not buy stuff that won't fix my boost issue? Lol

 

From the Outmotoring description:
Those models are all N14 engines. Not sure where they would have it compatible for N18...

But anyway... Since the intake manifold has no vacuum, the valve will never fully open, and might even not fully close, not sure how it would react. I would just use your stock valve. As long as the diaphragm is one piece, it will work just fine.

 

Update!

So Alta is not my fav company. It has been a wild goose chase. Source this part, use a 3rd party boost port and don't forget a little resistor and reuse parts from the factory solenoid. Customer service is non existent.

I installed an Alta DV stiffer spring and honestly may have been the problem. Around the same time I installed I began to only get 8-10 psi boost. Somewhere I read it was only for the manual version. At this point I am done with Alta / Perrin unless I get a Subaru again.

So today I attempted to install a new "factory" DV valve unsuccessfully. The screws were rusted and I stripped one. The turbo had zero play and no signs of oil leakage. I basically took off the cold and hot side pipes and made sure they were sealed because the DV wasn't going anywhere. The car ran great without a massive boost increase (highest on my short blitz was 9.8). I did however notice a lot less flutter when I lifted the throttle. Next things I may do is a larger turbo or possibly an methanol injection.

What would cause lower boost besides a leak? Clogged cat? I did blow cyl 4 in 2016. I have noticed that my exhaust doesn't pop anymore in sport mode. Any insight would be great!