Going to be getting some head work done and I feel I might as well go forged internals since I would like to try and get over the 300hp mark. How are the supertech pistons and rods? They seem to be a good price but I'm not sure if its a good choice or not. Everyone talks about CP pistons but I can't really find them for the n18 motor. Anyone used the supertech or have any input on them that would be great. I see mahle has a set of pistons but are they worth the extra $250 over the supertech? Just trying to plan things out. 2011 MCS

 

I have no feedback for piston/rods brands but i can let you know that the car can handle easy 250-270ps without forged internals so if you are not going to push the car more than that there isnt any reason to go forged.
OFC if the price is the same for forged-none forged go for forged.

 

˄This˄ 200hp shouldn't be a problem on a healthy MCS engine.

 

I had my engine built by Sneed so I don't have much input as far as choice of components. Chris at Sneed told me that CP did not make pistons for N18s, and he prefers them for N14s. My rods and pistons are all Supertech which I have heard nothing but good things about. I believe Mahle makes the OEM rods and pistons, so if they offer an upgraded set I don't see that being bad either. However I have not heard of anyone using Mahle aftermarket internals.

 

I faf fingers my origionl post I wana try and get to the 300 or over the 300HP mark. I currently have a stage 2 RPM tune and was told I should have around 220 or 230 hp. Wonder if I should just add meth and try and get close to 300 and run it for a while or just do the motor work now.

 

I am owner of a MCS N18 from 11/2010. Right now I have the following mods:
- RPMPower stage "3"
- Airtec V2 IC
- JCW turbo (a new turbo is comming right now) and new version of exhaust manifold
- Pretty new HPFP
- RCZ R spark plugs
- New coils (standard)
- KN inbox filter
- JCW box filter
- "New" motor. Unfortunately the stock one failled
- Downpipe decat
- Inlet turbo pipe in silicone
- Newest version of BOV

With this mods the car made 272hp and 360NM. Turbo is peak at 1.5bar.

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how long did the stock motor last you? What failed exactly? You plan of doing any head work on the new one? Right now I have a helix Ic, deleted the muffler from charge pipe, catless DP from Mario stage 2 rpm tune.

 

Stay away from Supertech pistons, I have personally experienced and have countless other customers have very bad experiences with Supertech. I typically use Carrillo
Mario
mQubed Motorsport ECU Tuning

 

Good job I didn't suggest Supertech as I though they do good products for the MINI.

 

If you're not doing the work yourself, I would highly suggest you find a good engine shop that knows what they are doing and ask them to build to your spec and/or budget.

The engine shop will know best what components that'll work together to give you the desired performance and durability.

These parts are suppose to be in mine N14

Wössner Alloy Forged Piston & Rings
PEC Steel performance Connecting Rods

Good read here by Tigger2011

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ger-2-0-a.html

 

My stock motor last until 65000km. But I had a different tunner. He didn't know how to work neither tunnel a Mini so my AFR was too poor and it destroy my motor. Rod and piston #1 just went through the block. All the motor was direct to the bin. For now I have stage 2.5 with jcw turbo. I can't say stage 3 because it is jcw turbo

For now I will stay with stock Internals rods, pistons and valves. My tunner in Portugal from RPM just said to me it is ok and not to worry about that. Future projects, full forge motor and big turbo ou hybrid one jcw that I have at home

 

What problems have you encountered with supertech pistons? It would also be good to know if you have found problems with the rods too.

 

A buddy of mine up here in Canada tried the Supertech and the results were disastrous, he was running 10.5/1 with cams and the valves ended up kissing the pistons only at high rpm hard pulls, I personally would stay away from them. Heard CP's are good, also my buddy runs Weisco's they are supposed to be really good a little bit on the heavier side so may be good if you plan on running really high boost, he's pulling 375 off the front wheels with Weisco's. I have an in with Wossners, so next engine I'm building is going to get a set of those, Wossners are super hard to find in North America, more popular in Europe.

 

Was it the pistons or the valves that caused the problems?

I've seen videos on YouTube saying that the Supertech valves crack and causes engine failures. I'm hoping this is not the case as I just purchased Supertech valves.

 

10.5:1 CR pistons with hi-lift cams REQUIRE the hydraulic equivalent of "valve lash" be measured, then a couple manual rotations of the timed engine to ensure there's no valve-piston contact. Also helpful to verify the vanos free-play movement doesn't cause valve-piston contact while at TDC. All kinds of things to be checked when installing hi-lift cams. Hopefully your buddy was using a stronger valve spring, even if the cam mfgr said not req'd. Hard to blame pistons for valve-piston contact, sounds more like valve float or at least a valve train problem.

I'm using SuperTech Inconel intake and SS exhaust in my N14, with beehive springs, all activated by intermediate lift / duration Cat cams. So far, no valve train problems --- been producing 350+WHP for a couple years and 500+ for about the last 5K miles. It's also important to use a colder heat range spark plug --- helps keep combustion chamber temps down. Take a quick read of this NGK tech article --- https://www.ngk.com/learning-center/...ugs-heat-range I'm using heat range 9 plugs. Ungodly expensive, but cheaper than an engine rebuild. Do your YouTube videos mention what heat range plugs they used?

 

I've been keeping tabs on your wonderful MINI build and certainly hope the Supertech valves are not an issue.


Granted it's not a MINI build but never the less still Supertech valves. But on the other hand no other real alternatives apart from Supertech valves from the searches I've done online.

 

Supertech valve-train components are very good. Their pistons I would pass on for now. Never had a problem tuning a vehicle with them but some have which makes me suspect either a QC issue with crown design or the builder didn't consider everything as a complete system.

CP does make N18 pistons as I had a 9.5:1 set made for a client. However, they are not cheap since they are a special order item. Once they've sold enough to recoup engineering costs I would expect to find them in their catalog.

Mahle Powerpak pistons are an excellent design. Lightweight, quiet and will handle 300 hp all day long but you're limited to 10:1 compression with a 1.2mm head gasket.

Wossner makes a great product but if I recall correctly their R56 pistons are designed for tapered small end rods. Think that leaves you with PEC or ZRP as your choices.

 

One forum member here in UK had failure of PEC rods and materials analysis found issues with manufacture.

I was going to use K1 but apparently most of these originate from same Chinese manufacturer. ZRP too possibly.

Manufacturer I am led to believe is Bridgeway or BW Rods, who make their own and for others. Some builders I have seen on evo forums use K1 and Bridgeway, but most say use Paulter or Corrilo or R&R.

now I don’t know who to use.....