Drivetrain What's your winter project?
Originally Posted by RallyMINI
Let me guess, it also has a polycarbonate body, and plastic wheels?

You forgot carbon fiber chassis and 37,000rpm motor 
How many of you will bring a RC Mini down to MOTD besides me? I've got miniature cones so we can set up a race course!
The main project was to get my new hip installed, 3 weeks post surgery and I can now get back into the mini.
Can't wait to be able to drive again.
The mods on the mini that are lined up as soon as I can get around better.
Alta TMIC
Detroit Tuned Bypass Valve
Alta Oil catch can
My own design surg tank to replace the leaking stock plastic one.
Also, custom tuning on the Unichip for the new mods.
The mods on the mini that are lined up as soon as I can get around better.
Alta TMIC
Detroit Tuned Bypass Valve
Alta Oil catch can
My own design surg tank to replace the leaking stock plastic one.
Also, custom tuning on the Unichip for the new mods.
I have two of those things.....i love them. I should really go back and tinker with them now that I'm more familiar with car tuning. I still have an unpainted body....hmmmmmmmm
Sid, if i make it to MOTD, i will certainly bring mine. Although i doubt my electrics could keep up with a gas powered one.
Sid, if i make it to MOTD, i will certainly bring mine. Although i doubt my electrics could keep up with a gas powered one.
Originally Posted by MyPocketRocket

Originally Posted by sanddan
The main project was to get my new hip installed, 3 weeks post surgery and I can now get back into the mini.
Can't wait to be able to drive again.
I went through a complete bionic left hip replacement 10 years ago and then had to had it replaced again 5 years later due to wear because they were designed for 80 year old grandmas
All's well now...enjoy the good drugs while you're recouperating
Originally Posted by RallyMINI
I have two of those things.....i love them. I should really go back and tinker with them now that I'm more familiar with car tuning. I still have an unpainted body....hmmmmmmmm
Sid, if i make it to MOTD, i will certainly bring mine. Although i doubt my electrics could keep up with a gas powered one.
Sid, if i make it to MOTD, i will certainly bring mine. Although i doubt my electrics could keep up with a gas powered one.
MISFITOY,
Sorry to hear you had to go through the same thing. I hope all is good now with yours.
I am only 53 so I hope this one lasts a good bit.
It's hell to get old.
I had to sneak out at mid day for a short spin in the mini. Can't tell the wife as the doc hasn't given me the ok yet. All went great, but the seat is a bit uncomfortable so I think I'll wait a bit more before trying again. Next time it will be to test drive the newest mods that are waiting to be installed.
Sorry to hear you had to go through the same thing. I hope all is good now with yours.
I am only 53 so I hope this one lasts a good bit.
It's hell to get old.I had to sneak out at mid day for a short spin in the mini. Can't tell the wife as the doc hasn't given me the ok yet. All went great, but the seat is a bit uncomfortable so I think I'll wait a bit more before trying again. Next time it will be to test drive the newest mods that are waiting to be installed.
Better Brakes
All,
It is indeed winter. One project is air cooling ducts for MINI's brakes. Have completed the passenger side duct and am working on the drivers side duct, as we speak.
Fitting the passenger side ducts was tough. Hardly enough room for the engine, oil cooler hoses and the air ducts. Had to cut into the plastic fender liner to provide clearance for the duct, and even then, the wheel just touches the duct when on full lock. The air outlet to the brake disc is a modified BMW 3 Series cooling shroud that is available from any number of BMW performance tuners. Here are a couple of photos.
Hope these ducts help my brake cooling, after all this work.
Regards,
John Petrich in Seattle
It is indeed winter. One project is air cooling ducts for MINI's brakes. Have completed the passenger side duct and am working on the drivers side duct, as we speak.
Fitting the passenger side ducts was tough. Hardly enough room for the engine, oil cooler hoses and the air ducts. Had to cut into the plastic fender liner to provide clearance for the duct, and even then, the wheel just touches the duct when on full lock. The air outlet to the brake disc is a modified BMW 3 Series cooling shroud that is available from any number of BMW performance tuners. Here are a couple of photos.
Hope these ducts help my brake cooling, after all this work.
Regards,
John Petrich in Seattle
Originally Posted by onasled
You guys are funny.
I have this reoccurring day dream that spring will come, the snow will melt and the track day chatter will begin to start up again ..... and I'm sitting in my shop with parts strun around and my feet tangled up in wiring harnesses. Head in my hand sobbing
.... "why, why didn't I listen to my mother back when I was 10 years old
??"

I have this reoccurring day dream that spring will come, the snow will melt and the track day chatter will begin to start up again ..... and I'm sitting in my shop with parts strun around and my feet tangled up in wiring harnesses. Head in my hand sobbing
.... "why, why didn't I listen to my mother back when I was 10 years old
??" 
Brake air duct intakes
RalleyMINI,
As I was trying to say..... Yes, am using the foglight holes. Attached is a photo of the intake openings. A bit dorky looking, but the best I can do for the present. Would be interested in other people's solutions. My primary intereste is AIR to the brakes in time for my next track day in February.
John Petrich in Seattle
As I was trying to say..... Yes, am using the foglight holes. Attached is a photo of the intake openings. A bit dorky looking, but the best I can do for the present. Would be interested in other people's solutions. My primary intereste is AIR to the brakes in time for my next track day in February.
John Petrich in Seattle
Bump steer correction
TonyB,
The red "thing" in the photo is an aftermarket tie rod end that allows me to adjust out bump steer. These tie rod ends are a BMW Z-3 racing part that fits the MINI exactly. Infact, as I recall, the brake air duct components are adapted from Z-3 products.
The short version of a long story of why the bump steer correction goes back to some posts that I made in May and June of this year. The topic was about the suspension geometry problems that come with lowering the MINI and what was necessary to raise the front roll center back near to stock height. After relocating the lower "A" arm and raising the roll center, I needed to correct for bump steer, hence the red "thing". A cheaper, but not 100% satisfactory approach for me, would have been to install a heavier front anti-roll bar, as many others do with their lowered MINIs. One of the most noticeable consequences of a heavier front anti-roll bar is to convert the MINI's independent front suspension to a close approximation of a solid axel suspension. Not for me, at least. There are other issues about camber gain with lowered MINI's as well. The stock suspension geometry in a non-lowered MINI is as close to perfection as I could ever dream.
John Petrich in Seattle
The red "thing" in the photo is an aftermarket tie rod end that allows me to adjust out bump steer. These tie rod ends are a BMW Z-3 racing part that fits the MINI exactly. Infact, as I recall, the brake air duct components are adapted from Z-3 products.
The short version of a long story of why the bump steer correction goes back to some posts that I made in May and June of this year. The topic was about the suspension geometry problems that come with lowering the MINI and what was necessary to raise the front roll center back near to stock height. After relocating the lower "A" arm and raising the roll center, I needed to correct for bump steer, hence the red "thing". A cheaper, but not 100% satisfactory approach for me, would have been to install a heavier front anti-roll bar, as many others do with their lowered MINIs. One of the most noticeable consequences of a heavier front anti-roll bar is to convert the MINI's independent front suspension to a close approximation of a solid axel suspension. Not for me, at least. There are other issues about camber gain with lowered MINI's as well. The stock suspension geometry in a non-lowered MINI is as close to perfection as I could ever dream.
John Petrich in Seattle
Originally Posted by Petrich
TonyB,
The red "thing" in the photo is an aftermarket tie rod end that allows me to adjust out bump steer. These tie rod ends are a BMW Z-3 racing part that fits the MINI exactly. Infact, as I recall, the brake air duct components are adapted from Z-3 products.
The short version of a long story of why the bump steer correction goes back to some posts that I made in May and June of this year. The topic was about the suspension geometry problems that come with lowering the MINI and what was necessary to raise the front roll center back near to stock height. After relocating the lower "A" arm and raising the roll center, I needed to correct for bump steer, hence the red "thing". A cheaper, but not 100% satisfactory approach for me, would have been to install a heavier front anti-roll bar, as many others do with their lowered MINIs. One of the most noticeable consequences of a heavier front anti-roll bar is to convert the MINI's independent front suspension to a close approximation of a solid axel suspension. Not for me, at least. There are other issues about camber gain with lowered MINI's as well. The stock suspension geometry in a non-lowered MINI is as close to perfection as I could ever dream.
John Petrich in Seattle
The red "thing" in the photo is an aftermarket tie rod end that allows me to adjust out bump steer. These tie rod ends are a BMW Z-3 racing part that fits the MINI exactly. Infact, as I recall, the brake air duct components are adapted from Z-3 products.
The short version of a long story of why the bump steer correction goes back to some posts that I made in May and June of this year. The topic was about the suspension geometry problems that come with lowering the MINI and what was necessary to raise the front roll center back near to stock height. After relocating the lower "A" arm and raising the roll center, I needed to correct for bump steer, hence the red "thing". A cheaper, but not 100% satisfactory approach for me, would have been to install a heavier front anti-roll bar, as many others do with their lowered MINIs. One of the most noticeable consequences of a heavier front anti-roll bar is to convert the MINI's independent front suspension to a close approximation of a solid axel suspension. Not for me, at least. There are other issues about camber gain with lowered MINI's as well. The stock suspension geometry in a non-lowered MINI is as close to perfection as I could ever dream.
John Petrich in Seattle
Air intake (JCW with ITG) coming soon
brake kit (I think this is the most important for my car mods so I want to choose the brake kits carefully. Brembo, STOPTECH or TCE WILWOOD)
or
MTH header or any suggested items?
actually I wanted to get Saclam header. The reason is beaty work but price is too expensive.
My MODS LIST(ALTA15%. SACLAM EXHAUST, MINI MANIA 0% CRANK PULLEY, MTH tuner file, Nology hot wires, DENSO 24 racing plugs , Orciari Scoops, EBC GREEN, 380cc JCW injector, Bilstein PSS9, ARC hyper link)
brake kit (I think this is the most important for my car mods so I want to choose the brake kits carefully. Brembo, STOPTECH or TCE WILWOOD)
or
MTH header or any suggested items?
actually I wanted to get Saclam header. The reason is beaty work but price is too expensive.
My MODS LIST(ALTA15%. SACLAM EXHAUST, MINI MANIA 0% CRANK PULLEY, MTH tuner file, Nology hot wires, DENSO 24 racing plugs , Orciari Scoops, EBC GREEN, 380cc JCW injector, Bilstein PSS9, ARC hyper link)






