My Winter Mini Projects
 

Looks like a long messy winter in the mid-west. I'll have lots of time to install the JATO from M7. What's your project?

Here's where I mounted the N2O solenoid and controller:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ll_venom_1.jpg

Here are the M7 400cc injectors I took off El Diablito hands. Too small for him he says:roll: :lol: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...enon_3-med.jpg

The ON switch. I'm wondering what that's going to look like at night with all them lights flashing...Christmas Tree:lol:


EDIT 1-20-05, the ocillating/flashing light is very nice. Not too bright and very entertaining:thumbsup:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...enom_2-med.jpg

Next, make template for MDF boot plate to mount N2O bottle and route line under chassis. Until Peter's AGS systems arrives, I'll be using the ever popular HAI system:grin: Stay tuned:thumbsup:

What's going on in your garage?
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ll_Luke_11.jpg

Very nice!

Where is your air box ? :confused:

The HAI is not in yet.

BTW, Peter informs me that the Venom controller is NOT weather proof. I have a few months to figure out how to fix that:wink:

Maybe he has the HAI

Nik

I must be boring you guys. Oh well...I'll just entertain myself:grin: .

Got the MDF cut out, fitted and ready for fabric:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...enom_4-med.jpg

In that location I would say that the flashing lights are going to drive you mad.
I moved my indicator to the left of the tach so it wasn't so irritating.
Other than that you'll be certain to enjoy the joy juice:thumbsup:
Be careful in extremely cold weather as the solenoid has a tendency to freeze and the nitrous flow is interrupted and the ride is very very jerky to say the least.

Thanks for the advice CCM. I thought about fabricating a filter to place over the LEDs at night. How is your Mini holding up with NO2?

Looks good MSFITOY!


Are you running the lines through the battery box?
If so, is the tank mounted on a replacement cover?

Um...no. See the corner cutoff on the upper left MDF? Under there is a perfect spot to drill a hole and stuff a grommet into. All I need to do is cut a small hole in the carpet in that area. The battery cover is too flimsy to mount the bottle to hence the MDF. The board is fitted as to prevent the bottle from sliding around...you know. Not that I do that much:wink:

Its illegal (atleast at the track) to have a nitrous bottle inside a passenger cabin without a blowdown tube. Safety first :thumbsup:

--
Cheese

Gotcha:wink: I plan on removing the whole bottle platform if/when I put Msfit on the track. Unless you count "Dragon" as a track:lol:

:lol: The Dragon will be the last place you'll want to use the Nitrous :eek2: Especially with your stock brakes!

Good point...I had a ZEX kit in my old car, but that worked out because the trunk was sealed off from the rest of the car, whereas the MINI's is not necessarily "sealed off"...I guess the hat shelf doesn't necessarily count as a seal:razz: You'll love the giggle juice...it's hard to stay off the button when you first start using it...at least it was for me when testing whether or not the system was working correctly...:thumbsup: Have fun with that...hope you see some good E.T.s if that's what you're going for.

Tony.

:razz: :razz: :razz: Stock Shmock...Common Ryan...You KNOW I don't have stock brakes:sly:

And why would I need NO2 at the Dragon? 210hp is plenty:razz:

BTW...why are you suppose to be bowling tonight?

No no...It's strictly for straight 70 and over:wink: The Mini with the pully is too much already in the twisties.

Because we went bowling, and now I'm back home :razz: (6 games was enough!)

Not worried at all with your NO2 shot on I-75, especially since you'll be up front sweeping for cops :wink:

...and you do have stock brakes, as far as stopping distances go.

If you say so professor:wink:

...unless you have something else besides Zimmerman rotors and Red Stuff?

Lookin good!!!!:thumbsup:

Unless you've got something stickier than street tires, you can only brake as hard as the traction you have. When your ABS is going off, which everyone can manage even with "stock" brakes, you're at your vehicle's braking limit. Your larger brakes only provides improved repeat braking performance (false sense of superiority). Something you're not likely to see on the street. Nevertheless, my stock rotor size with venting and redstuff is enough to see me through most sessions short of a 2 hour track event...don't you think?

Sides...your mom says you're up past your bed time:razz:

sid you should take a ride in ryans car. the brakes will suck the eyeballs out of your head, and never hit the ABS.

last year i had my brakes glowing red hot at the dragon on the midnight run. i will have an upgrade before i go.

No doubt...big brakes are on my list too. I don't have a problem with Ryan's "nice" brakes but this thread was about my little NO2 project. I just wonder why he needed to poo poo my so called "stock" brakes :roll: :confused: :razz:

New Winter Project: Tangent

Can you hit ABS braking from 110MPH+?

Furthermore, the Dragon and surrounding roads are smooth and clean, not to mention have lots of rubber laid down! Braking performance is much better than you're used to here in pothole-ville, though obviously not quite as good as a clean Track. ABS is usually run into with A) poor surface and B) poor driver modulation. The higher the speed, the more torque and friction needed to stop the rotor. The stock setup simply doesn't have the torque needed for maximum high speed braking. A 2 hour track session will COOK stock brakes, regardless of pads or rotors (esp. drilled, and to a less extent, slotted, least with smooth face). Brembo OEM rotors (smooth) and Ferodo 3000's will be your best bet, but you will still hit the fade point of the Ferodo after only a few laps, let alone a half hour, and laughable at 2 hours.

This is where a quality BBK comes in. The higher weight rotor will help with fade resistance by being more temperature stable, but caliper stiffness and pad selection are also critical. Stoptech makes excellent stiffness calipers, but they are obnoxiously huge for most practical wheel setups. The Wilwood Forged Dynalite and the Outlaw 2000 are excellent race calipers, and provide a huge pad selection. I can positively fry a Wilwood T compound (rated up to 700F) on the Dragon in about 4 miles, and get an E compound (rated up to 1000F) up to the fade point after about 14 miles. The best pad for the Dragon (and Track) to date is the H compound, which not only has a huge friction coefficient, but also will withstand temps beyond the melting point of the calipers! :eek: Big rotors are only half the story. When it comes to steel/iron rotors, heavier is better for abusive applications. The rotor in the Wilwood kits aren't beefy enough to handle extensive sessions, whereas the B3 kit uses the most massive rotor of any MINI kit; you simply can't fry this kit with the right pad (well, no promises on the Nurburgring!)

Long story short (too late) Even running your 210HP config on the Dragon will end up destroying your current brake setup; you will not have any pads left before you get back home, and will have probably cracked the holes in your rotors too. But then again, that's only if you try to keep up with the big dogs :cool: Your money is better spent on a BBK and an LSD than NO2 on the Dragon and Track. My $0.02

edit - no offense whatsoever Sid; I'm sure the NO2 kit will be awesome for straight line fun! Just trying to be holistic.

Well, my big project is to find a better job!!!!!

If anyone finds or knows about a trnsportation job in Seattle, I'm all ears!! After the good paying job, then it's mod time!!!

Winter mods for me (most of which need to be footnoted as FINALLY):
Pulley
Intake (might get creative here)
Exhaust (still not sure which)
Oil and water temp gauges
Unichip (when I figure out the first three)

Springtime will center on new tires/rims, springs and a rear adjustable swaybar and possibly adjustable control arms.