Is anyone running a downpipe catless/catted that won’t throw a cel without a tune? I currently have a jb4 and I was looking to upgrade my dp and fmic. Let me know what I got and where u got it..,thanks

 

Mine don’t throw a CEL if you are interested

MarioPalza@gmail.com

Mario
mQubed Motorsport

 

This catted Milltek did not trigger any codes on my 2019 JCW, but I was running the Bytetronik Stage 1 tune. I know that's not what you asked, I'm just mentioning it because I believe their stage 1 software does not "program out" the CEL from coming on. I can't confirm that though. I ran that Milltek with the Stage 1 for about 600 miles with zero codes. I now put in the Stage 2 from Bytetronik, and I guess the CEL is software coded out.
Milltek Catted

 

That’s seems like the route I have to go. My cousin has a stage 1 byetronik tune and it cancels out the cel too. Back in the days the jb4 use to cancel out the cel on my Bmw n54 but they didn’t include that in jb4 for the mini. I’m in NYC so I have to get inspections every year so it’s going to be a pain to remove the jb4 and dp everytime I go in the shop. If I can find a dp that won’t throw a cel, it’ll be much easier to just disconnect the jb4 only. How do do you like the sound of the catted dp? I did a res and secondary cat delete already but the sound is not loud enough for me. I can’t have anything too loud where it’ll wake up the neighborhood but would like a deeper tone on the car.

 

I still have the factory exhaust from the down-pipe back. I wish I could compare my before-and-after sounds side by side, but to me, the new catted down-pipe hardly made it louder. Perhaps a tiny bit more hollow sounding, but not much.

 

Catted pipes won’t throw one.

Ones without will but can be coaded out with an ecu flash tune

 

I’ve read in some thread that even the catted ones throw cels.. Mario claims his doesn’t but the price is pretty hefty. So do I chance it with a catted or with Mario’s.. just trying to get feedback

 

I have installed quite a few downpipes on gen 2 and gen 3 cars. While a tune will kill the CEL and you can pass emissions with an RPM tune. I have installed several different brands of downpipe, and several of Mariokart’s downpipe’s too. I may sound like a shill, but his downpipes won’t cause a CEL and it’s easy to see why the cost difference is there when you compare a few side by side. Mario’s stuff is top notch.
I can say that the bung extensions do not work on Mini’s. And I have heard reports that the Hi-flow catted dp’s do cause a CEL too.

 

I would think either the catalytic converter filament correctly processes the rest of the exhaust gasses to satisfy the ECU parameters or it doesn't. I'm pretty sure all of the performance down-pipes either use a 200 CEL filament (high flow) or use no filament at all (cat-less). How they are welded together doesn't seem like the issue. Either the 200 CEL filament, or none at all, will trigger the code, that's what you are trying to figure out. If I were you, I'd keep asking if installation of a 200 CEL downpipe, by itself, had any codes triggered from any people. For what it's worth, I think a 200 CEL performance downpipe doesn't trigger a code (my experience). If you install your downpipe, and it triggers a code, you could ask a tuner get rid of it (I'm certain they would charge you something for doing this), but the second issue is whether it passes emissions. From reading these forums, I bet I would. Anyway, good luck.

 

For a Catless DP, there are ways to modify the secondary O2 bung so that the attenuated signal does resemble that of a normal secondary O2 signal as if you have the catted stock DP. You can do this by logging the stock signal and look at the plotted readout then go try a combination of extension, elbow, mesh pass-through, or any other reliable way to restrict flow into the bung so that the O2 sensor nose reads the attenuated signal and try to log it, plot it so that you find the semblance to the stock signal. With apps like Carly, Bimmercodes, even Torque Fusion, you can log those channels and ship the data points onto an excel sheet to plot and do the analysis. This work is tedious but it can be done. Cars of different automakers have different threshold values the ECU will look for, for the F56 mini, the window is quite small. MarioKart's catless DP is a work of art, that's all I'll say about it. Other than finding that sweet-spot to mechanically trick the O2 sniffer, software code-out is the only way around.

For high flow catted DP, it may or may not work as I've seen mixed reviews in the R56 forum, haven't collected enough cases to make a conclusion here. And even a 200-cell or 100-cell high flow cat is still a cat, meaning there's an obstruction for air passage. With all the work you need to do to replace the DP, you might as well go all out.

If you look for ways to upgrade your DP to catless and expect no codes, software method through tuning is easiest and costliest, but you'll get a tune with it which will put smiles to your daily experience driving that mini. Mechanically, you can slave yourself into finding that sweet spot or contact MarioKart for a bro-chat, get ready to choose the blue/red pill Matrix style. LOL.

 

A tune is out of the question since I recently just bought a JB4 a month ago. DP and fmic are my next upgrades. I have no problem shelling out the $700 for the DP, and getting Mario’s tune is ideal but that’s another $2000 bucks on top of my JB4’s purchase that I can’t afford right now. I’m just trying to build around map 2 on the jb4. A cheaper way for to do this is to purchase a Byetronic stage 1 tune and an eBay DP. That’ll run me abt $1100 and I won’t have to worry abt a CEL and pass emissions. That way I can lowball myself and sell the JB4 for $400 and this will cost me $700 out pocket.
another option is to keep my jb4 and just purchase his DP which is abt $700. I’ve read abt how his DP causes over boosting if you have a jb4 which kinda scares me a bit too. Whether it’s true or not I don’t know. I guess I just want some clarity before I make a major purchase. What does his stage 1 consist of? How much boost?

 

I’m not sure about the specifics, but I’m pretty sure Mario uses a bit of catylist in the O2 bung or something to keep it from throwing a CEL.

 

The best thing would be to get in touch with Mario, he can tell you what you want to know about his downpipe and tuning options.

 

I have his downpipe. It throws the code as well

 

Make sure your O2 sensors are located correctly. I had mine reversed where the upstream sensor is installed downstream and what not, I get this code for upstream sensor reading too slow. After I swap them back, no more CEL. After this, I went and got ByteTronik tune and car runs like a champ.