Handheld Tuning comes to the N18
6th Gear
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,945
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From: Northern NV
https://www.instagram.com/p/CQmELFDj...dium=copy_link
Another ig account claiming 30psi in boost. Is that legit?
Another ig account claiming 30psi in boost. Is that legit?
Then I gotta wonder, what does scotty_r56s think of my WMI direct port installation. I haven't watched the speedtechmotorsports video (and probably won't, thanx to the scotty_r56s review), but at first glance the WMI manifold looks similar, I just not using a manifold spacer and have five jets --- one more for the inlet tube, pre-MAPT sensor. Also note that I'm not trying to market anything, I'm just happy to provide info to anyone wanting to do something similar.
For those that don't want to wade thru my build thread, here's a couple pics of the engine bay and WMI plumbing.
Inlet on the left, pre-MAPT sensor on the right
I've been claiming 30PSI for several years, starting not long after I installed a GT2860RS (about 2012). After a lot more mods, this turbo wasn't big enough to sustain 30 throughout the RPM range, so I upgraded again to a G25-660. Now the best I can get out of it is 29.4PSI, mainly because the WG actuator is only a 1.5X (biggest of the 3 offered) and my MBC can't make up for any more --- it's max'd out. It obviously takes a good tune to handle this much boost, especially when using the OEM MCS MAP sensors. Latest dyno charts are posted earlier in this thread and full build is documented here --- https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ec-2018-a.html
Then I gotta wonder, what does scotty_r56s think of my WMI direct port installation. I haven't watched the speedtechmotorsports video (and probably won't, thanx to the scotty_r56s review), but at first glance the WMI manifold looks similar, I just not using a manifold spacer and have five jets --- one more for the inlet tube, pre-MAPT sensor. Also note that I'm not trying to market anything, I'm just happy to provide info to anyone wanting to do something similar.
For those that don't want to wade thru my build thread, here's a couple pics of the engine bay and WMI plumbing.
Inlet on the left, pre-MAPT sensor on the right
Then I gotta wonder, what does scotty_r56s think of my WMI direct port installation. I haven't watched the speedtechmotorsports video (and probably won't, thanx to the scotty_r56s review), but at first glance the WMI manifold looks similar, I just not using a manifold spacer and have five jets --- one more for the inlet tube, pre-MAPT sensor. Also note that I'm not trying to market anything, I'm just happy to provide info to anyone wanting to do something similar.
For those that don't want to wade thru my build thread, here's a couple pics of the engine bay and WMI plumbing.
Inlet on the left, pre-MAPT sensor on the right
If you look closely at his "distribution block" you'll notice that it is made up of multiple push-connect and T-fittings daisy-chained together. Each unnecessary connection is another potential point of failure (leaks). Your Aquamist distribution block uses compression fittings and has no more than is necessary (6). Make no mistake my setup is a little messy, but I'm not selling it. I did make the parts list and the trial and error experience of getting it up and running available to everyone.
Also note that I'm not trying to market anything, I'm just happy to provide info to anyone wanting to do something similar.
. In fact, your detailed logs covering both success and failure was one of the reasons I decided to write a detailed build thread. Thank you for what you have contributed (and continue to contribute) to the MINI community!
Last edited by scotty_r56s; Jun 27, 2021 at 01:48 PM.
Small update for tune options and pricing.
Cold start delete is a great way to minimize startup noise in the morning. Especially if you have a super free flowing exhaust. Unfortunately, those that live where it gets very cold, starting the car can be a little difficult sometimes in the morning. To solve this issue we now offer Quiet Start as an option. The vehicle still uses a cold start cycle however the initial rpm doesn't go over 1,000 rpm before tapering to normal idle. I like to think of it as the best of both worlds.
In regards to pricing our standard Stages now includes all options with the exception of race fuel or meth injection. Either of those will necessitate choosing the Plus option. For all standard Stages the following are now included:
Linear Throttle, Hybrid Throttle, Custom Pops & Burbles, Readiness+, Cold Start Delete, Quiet Start, Kickdown Delete, Lower Coolant Temp, Error delete, MAF and MAP sensor scaling, etc.
Cold start delete is a great way to minimize startup noise in the morning. Especially if you have a super free flowing exhaust. Unfortunately, those that live where it gets very cold, starting the car can be a little difficult sometimes in the morning. To solve this issue we now offer Quiet Start as an option. The vehicle still uses a cold start cycle however the initial rpm doesn't go over 1,000 rpm before tapering to normal idle. I like to think of it as the best of both worlds.
In regards to pricing our standard Stages now includes all options with the exception of race fuel or meth injection. Either of those will necessitate choosing the Plus option. For all standard Stages the following are now included:
Linear Throttle, Hybrid Throttle, Custom Pops & Burbles, Readiness+, Cold Start Delete, Quiet Start, Kickdown Delete, Lower Coolant Temp, Error delete, MAF and MAP sensor scaling, etc.
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Custom tuning solutions for BMW & Mini.
Custom tuning solutions for BMW & Mini.
Alliance Member
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 7,445
Likes: 2,450
From: WNY
Small update for tune options and pricing.
Cold start delete is a great way to minimize startup noise in the morning. Especially if you have a super free flowing exhaust. Unfortunately, those that live where it gets very cold, starting the car can be a little difficult sometimes in the morning. To solve this issue we now offer Quiet Start as an option. The vehicle still uses a cold start cycle however the initial rpm doesn't go over 1,000 rpm before tapering to normal idle. I like to think of it as the best of both worlds.
In regards to pricing our standard Stages now includes all options with the exception of race fuel or meth injection. Either of those will necessitate choosing the Plus option. For all standard Stages the following are now included:
Linear Throttle, Hybrid Throttle, Custom Pops & Burbles, Readiness+, Cold Start Delete, Quiet Start, Kickdown Delete, Lower Coolant Temp, Error delete, MAF and MAP sensor scaling, etc.
Cold start delete is a great way to minimize startup noise in the morning. Especially if you have a super free flowing exhaust. Unfortunately, those that live where it gets very cold, starting the car can be a little difficult sometimes in the morning. To solve this issue we now offer Quiet Start as an option. The vehicle still uses a cold start cycle however the initial rpm doesn't go over 1,000 rpm before tapering to normal idle. I like to think of it as the best of both worlds.
In regards to pricing our standard Stages now includes all options with the exception of race fuel or meth injection. Either of those will necessitate choosing the Plus option. For all standard Stages the following are now included:
Linear Throttle, Hybrid Throttle, Custom Pops & Burbles, Readiness+, Cold Start Delete, Quiet Start, Kickdown Delete, Lower Coolant Temp, Error delete, MAF and MAP sensor scaling, etc.
Curious about the MAF and MAP scaling? Is that in reference to running JCW sensors on an S engine?
While that is the most common application, we are not limited to JCW sensors. As long as the sensor is signal compatible there is no reason you can't use a 3.5 or even 4 bar MAP sensor in the charge pipe. The only limitation is on the intake manifold sensor as the sensor in that location must be able to read a minimum absolute pressure of 200 mb. With the current sensors available the maximum for the intake manifold is 3 bar. Use of sensors larger than the JCW however does require the purchase of new connectors which need to be re-pinned or the fabrication of an adapter harness as the larger sensors are not plug compatible with the Mini wire harness. A good example is the 3.5 bar Bosch MAP sensor P/N 0 281 002 456 which needs connector P/N 1 928 403 736.
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Custom tuning solutions for BMW & Mini.
Custom tuning solutions for BMW & Mini.
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From: WNY
Benefit / Purpose of aftermarket MAP and MAF sensors? If you're running an aftermarket or larger turbo, you can easily outpace your OEM sensors with too much flow or pressure.
3rd Gear
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 208
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While that is the most common application, we are not limited to JCW sensors. As long as the sensor is signal compatible there is no reason you can't use a 3.5 or even 4 bar MAP sensor in the charge pipe. The only limitation is on the intake manifold sensor as the sensor in that location must be able to read a minimum absolute pressure of 200 mb. With the current sensors available the maximum for the intake manifold is 3 bar. Use of sensors larger than the JCW however does require the purchase of new connectors which need to be re-pinned or the fabrication of an adapter harness as the larger sensors are not plug compatible with the Mini wire harness. A good example is the 3.5 bar Bosch MAP sensor P/N 0 281 002 456 which needs connector P/N 1 928 403 736.
As thorough as it gets.
Good job friend!
Cant wait to retune my babe again!:D
1st Gear
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 25
Likes: 5
Link for turbine/exhaust housing
Hi Subscope,
Sounds like you've built yourself a pretty nice ride. The turbine housing is a cast nodular iron design and intended for temps up to 850C or 1560F so the more you push the motor and the higher the exhaust temps the more likely it is to fail. There are two things you can do to reduce the likelihood of the manifold or housing cracking. First up would be meth injection to reduce your exhaust temps. As an added bonus you get the benefit of reduced detonation and your intake valves will stay cleaner longer. The second option would be to port match and polish the exhaust manifold and turbine housings. Being a cast piece you can easily see the porous surface. The exhaust manifold usually cracks near the radius of the scroll divider. Blending and smoothing that area reduces stress risers where a crack can begin due to thermal cycling. When you have the manifold and turbo off you can also use some machinest dye or modeling clay where the two meet to make sure you have a smooth transition of the divider and flange. Any corners or lips sticking out will create a hot spot. Blending of the turbine housing will also help. The most common areas are again the scroll divider and a little further in where the exhaust stream is split and flows into the wastegate port.
Repairs could consist of replacing the turbine housing. New BW housings are available in the $600 range. I would steer clear of Chinese cloned housings. In our testing we found an exceptionally high rate of occlusions and voids in the castings. Alternatively, your shop may be able to weld the housing. You'd be surprised what a really talented welder can accomplish. I have seen weld repairs in the downstream part of the housing near the turbine wheel exducer last for years.
Sounds like you've built yourself a pretty nice ride. The turbine housing is a cast nodular iron design and intended for temps up to 850C or 1560F so the more you push the motor and the higher the exhaust temps the more likely it is to fail. There are two things you can do to reduce the likelihood of the manifold or housing cracking. First up would be meth injection to reduce your exhaust temps. As an added bonus you get the benefit of reduced detonation and your intake valves will stay cleaner longer. The second option would be to port match and polish the exhaust manifold and turbine housings. Being a cast piece you can easily see the porous surface. The exhaust manifold usually cracks near the radius of the scroll divider. Blending and smoothing that area reduces stress risers where a crack can begin due to thermal cycling. When you have the manifold and turbo off you can also use some machinest dye or modeling clay where the two meet to make sure you have a smooth transition of the divider and flange. Any corners or lips sticking out will create a hot spot. Blending of the turbine housing will also help. The most common areas are again the scroll divider and a little further in where the exhaust stream is split and flows into the wastegate port.
Repairs could consist of replacing the turbine housing. New BW housings are available in the $600 range. I would steer clear of Chinese cloned housings. In our testing we found an exceptionally high rate of occlusions and voids in the castings. Alternatively, your shop may be able to weld the housing. You'd be surprised what a really talented welder can accomplish. I have seen weld repairs in the downstream part of the housing near the turbine wheel exducer last for years.
could you provide a link or part number for the oem exhaust housing? I have searched all over the place and keep coming up with the knock off units. I’d prefer the oem stainless.
thank you.
Hi hmeslice. Since its not a forum vendor I can't in good conscience post the link. If you change your profile settings I can PM you. You can also email me at lou@prototype-r.com and I'll send you the link.
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Custom tuning solutions for BMW & Mini.
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Also, don't be afraid to reach out to Lou directly with any of your questions. He is a great guy, and will answer any and all of your questions, without trying to sell you on any of his services.
Neutral
Joined: Dec 2022
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Yes, one of the first steps to the tuning process is getting the thermostat to control at a lower temperature - typically 185-190°F
Also, don't be afraid to reach out to Lou directly with any of your questions. He is a great guy, and will answer any and all of your questions, without trying to sell you on any of his services.
Also, don't be afraid to reach out to Lou directly with any of your questions. He is a great guy, and will answer any and all of your questions, without trying to sell you on any of his services.
Modifying the thermostat as well as the fans is pretty standard. They are normally set to maintain coolant temps between 185 and 195 depending on application.
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Custom tuning solutions for BMW & Mini.
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Neutral
Joined: Dec 2022
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1st Gear
Joined: Sep 2019
Posts: 16
Likes: 3
I have emailed Lou to enquire about a remote tune for my N18, I'm based in the UK and wanting a stage 2 remap. There are not any mini specific tuners near me, most are based in England and would be an 8-10 hour round trip for me, I have had some talks with a reputable tuner in Scotland and they are saying I can expect around 240 BHP and 350Nm from their remap as they hold back boost for reliability reasons. Do these figures seem ok for a stage 2 tune on a cooper s?
Hi Jimmy-R56s
For a Stage 2 on an N18 that's about right depending on fuel and the condition of the engine. With 98 RON you can expect around a 50-60 hp increase at the crank and around 70-80 ft/lbs more torque. 95 RON or 100 RON will push that down or up of course. On the N14 you can generally expect a bit more HP and a bit less torque.
For a Stage 2 on an N18 that's about right depending on fuel and the condition of the engine. With 98 RON you can expect around a 50-60 hp increase at the crank and around 70-80 ft/lbs more torque. 95 RON or 100 RON will push that down or up of course. On the N14 you can generally expect a bit more HP and a bit less torque.
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Custom tuning solutions for BMW & Mini.
Custom tuning solutions for BMW & Mini.
1st Gear
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 32
Likes: 9
From: London, UK
Hi I have a 2013 N18 JCW. So does that mean to get a stage 2 I would need the tactrix cable and a K+DCAN as well as the cost of the stage 2 software on the website? Do I need anything additional ie the ‘stage x handheld’ and / or the ‘flash software’? It isn’t clear. Thanks.
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From: WNY
Hi I have a 2013 N18 JCW. So does that mean to get a stage 2 I would need the tactrix cable and a K+DCAN as well as the cost of the stage 2 software on the website? Do I need anything additional ie the ‘stage x handheld’ and / or the ‘flash software’? It isn’t clear. Thanks.
Hi Coolhands,
For the N18 there is no need for the handheld. Flashing is performed with the Openport cable and flash software.
Up to Windows 10, you can also use the Openport cable for everything from flashing to diagnostics and coding as well as data logging.
On Windows 11 however things are a bit different. BMW have not yet updated their Passthru driver for Windows 11. So data logging on Win 11 requires a K+DCAN cable.
Send me an email and I'll email you a link to where you can get an Openport cable for around $30. I've had quite a few clients choose this less expensive cable and have had zero problems with it.
For the N18 there is no need for the handheld. Flashing is performed with the Openport cable and flash software.
Up to Windows 10, you can also use the Openport cable for everything from flashing to diagnostics and coding as well as data logging.
On Windows 11 however things are a bit different. BMW have not yet updated their Passthru driver for Windows 11. So data logging on Win 11 requires a K+DCAN cable.
Send me an email and I'll email you a link to where you can get an Openport cable for around $30. I've had quite a few clients choose this less expensive cable and have had zero problems with it.
__________________
Custom tuning solutions for BMW & Mini.
Custom tuning solutions for BMW & Mini.