Drivetrain Best parts to get 260whp and not blow it up?
#1
Best parts to get 260whp and not blow it up?
Hello all,
TL;DR - is there a "best" turbo upgrade, price me damned? Is there a "best bang for buck" turbo? What are the concerns with the non "best" turbo? Is there a best stage 3 tune? I like the idea of being able to switch maps. If I make 260whp+, what is going to be the thing that breaks that I should upgrade before it does?
More details:
I have an 2010 N14 R56 S with pretty much all the bolt ons. Intake, intercooler, Manic stage 1, catless DP, exhaust, OS Giken GT clutch. That probably makes what, 200whp?
I've begun thinking I want more. I could slap a stage 2 tune on there as is and get 220whp or so? I'm thinking that'd be a waste of a ~$700 tune. Might as well save/budget for a full stage 3 tune and new turbo, right? Would be ~$2300 from Mariokart.
TL;DR - is there a "best" turbo upgrade, price me damned? Is there a "best bang for buck" turbo? What are the concerns with the non "best" turbo? Is there a best stage 3 tune? I like the idea of being able to switch maps. If I make 260whp+, what is going to be the thing that breaks that I should upgrade before it does?
More details:
I have an 2010 N14 R56 S with pretty much all the bolt ons. Intake, intercooler, Manic stage 1, catless DP, exhaust, OS Giken GT clutch. That probably makes what, 200whp?
I've begun thinking I want more. I could slap a stage 2 tune on there as is and get 220whp or so? I'm thinking that'd be a waste of a ~$700 tune. Might as well save/budget for a full stage 3 tune and new turbo, right? Would be ~$2300 from Mariokart.
#3
Turbo choice depends on HP goals. Most of the popular hybrids will get you up to 300WHP, but more than that will require a bigger unit --- Garrett or BW's EFR series. Most reliable hybrid (my opinion) is Owens. Avoid rebuilt Chinese versions.
Big HP needs WMI to help with cooling --- minimize burned valves and plugs. Aquamist is about the most versatile. Consider adding a jet at each port.
Big HP needs WMI to help with cooling --- minimize burned valves and plugs. Aquamist is about the most versatile. Consider adding a jet at each port.
#5
When I got up to 280, I added WMI so I can't comment on personal experience. However, I can comment on power addiction --- it's very difficult to stop adding power once you get started. Waiting 'til the last minute to beef up the engine could be a big mistake. I've read about guys with minimum mods blowing a piston on the N14. Lotsa TLC might help, but don't wait too long. A commonly accepted goal is 300WHP without forged internals. And WMI is not usually considered a power mod by itself. It will enhance other power mods by "fooling" the ECU about IAT. WMI is highly recommended.
#7
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#8
Stage 3 info here
https://www.lohen.co.uk/manic-motorsport-remap-stage-3
Parts listed here
https://www.lohen.co.uk/lohen-power-pack
Also the power the car makes depends on the health of the engine and parts.
As the previous question asked "How much HP can I get without WMI or forged internals?"
And so I quoted "+80 BHP with Manic Motorsport stage 3 tune."
Apart from upgraded turbo it looks like "IsaacinPhilly" has most of the parts already for stage 3.
But any good tuner will only tune to what the car is capable without blowing something.
https://www.lohen.co.uk/manic-motorsport-remap-stage-3
Parts listed here
https://www.lohen.co.uk/lohen-power-pack
Also the power the car makes depends on the health of the engine and parts.
As the previous question asked "How much HP can I get without WMI or forged internals?"
And so I quoted "+80 BHP with Manic Motorsport stage 3 tune."
Apart from upgraded turbo it looks like "IsaacinPhilly" has most of the parts already for stage 3.
But any good tuner will only tune to what the car is capable without blowing something.
Last edited by knt; 06-21-2019 at 02:44 AM.
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