Drivetrain Tips for doing N18 timing chain?
#1
Tips for doing N18 timing chain?
So I got a new short block and I'm going through the process of building it up. I have a Haynes manual and I've been using NewTIS a lot too, and both have different procedures for doing the timing chain. Needless to say I'm a little confused. With the cams and crank locked in place using the special tools and the VANOS units loosely attached at the end of each cam, I procedure I'm planning on is:
1) Torque crank bolt with sprockets and hub
2) Torque chain guide bolts (the 3 T45 torx ones)
3) Pretension chain guide 0.6 Nm with special tool through tensioner hole
4) Install top guide rail (T-shaped above the cams)
5) Torque VANOS units to camshaft
6) Remove special tool from tensioner hole and install tensioner.
Is this correct? Where am I supposed to find a torque wrench/driver that goes down to 0.6 Nm? Why not just install the tensioner before torquing the VANOS units? I'm honestly just scared of doing something wrong and when I start up I crash valves into my new engine. I bought a Husky torque driver that is rated down to 8 inch pounds but it seems I need more like 5 and I can get it there. But when I tried it I felt like the pre-tensioner tool was going into the head a lot.
1) Torque crank bolt with sprockets and hub
2) Torque chain guide bolts (the 3 T45 torx ones)
3) Pretension chain guide 0.6 Nm with special tool through tensioner hole
4) Install top guide rail (T-shaped above the cams)
5) Torque VANOS units to camshaft
6) Remove special tool from tensioner hole and install tensioner.
Is this correct? Where am I supposed to find a torque wrench/driver that goes down to 0.6 Nm? Why not just install the tensioner before torquing the VANOS units? I'm honestly just scared of doing something wrong and when I start up I crash valves into my new engine. I bought a Husky torque driver that is rated down to 8 inch pounds but it seems I need more like 5 and I can get it there. But when I tried it I felt like the pre-tensioner tool was going into the head a lot.
#2
All good but for 6nm I screwed it in finger tight then gave it a 45degree turn. There are low reading torque ratchets out there. Torque the cam bolts up to first stage, undo the locking tool and crank pin, spin crankshaft clockwise a few revolutions and then line up the cylinder heights (using wires or sticks - whatever your technique or youtube video you are following) and reapply the locking tool and pin to check your timing, do that one more time and if all drops into place, you can now apply the final torque to the cam bolts using an angle guage and a slim 27mm spanner to hold the cams as you do it to guarantee no movement. The tripple check is to allow for fine adjustments of the cams if required as the bolts are use once TTY.
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