N18 timing off after timing chain replacement
#1
N18 timing off after timing chain replacement
HELP! My 2011 MCS Clubman (n18 engine) jumps time after replacing the timing chain and valve seals. I followed the instructions from several sources, and used the required timing lock tools. I put everything back together and Crunk it twice. Then I removed the valve cover to recheck timing and the intake cam was about 35 degrees behind the locking position. I reset it, check torque on the cam bolts and tried again... Same result. Any ideas?
#3
#4
I'm trying to figure out what went wrong. If you locked both cams and crank and tensioned the chain, all that is left to do is lock down both cams and crank sprockets bolts. I inserted wooden skewer into the spark plugs holes and manually rotated the crank. After two rotations when the sticks were even again, I was good to go. Let us know how it goes.
#6
I'm trying to figure out what went wrong. If you locked both cams and crank and tensioned the chain, all that is left to do is lock down both cams and crank sprockets bolts. I inserted wooden skewer into the spark plugs holes and manually rotated the crank. After two rotations when the sticks were even again, I was good to go. Let us know how it goes.
#7
Trending Topics
#8
3rd cam
I had to remove the 3rd cam (under the intake cam) in order to replace the valve stem seals. At the time, I was sure what that cam did, but took several photos and made a few location marks so I would be able to put everything back in the same position. I couldn't find anything on this 3rd cam. But I noticed while looking at the engine with valve cover off and having someone turn the car on(not cranking it), that the 3rd cam turns to open the intake valves before a startup.
I don't think it is causing the problem I'm having, but l am a bit in the dark about it. 99% of the documents, photos, and videos I've found are for N14's, and the N18 stuff I did find doesn't cover this.
I don't think it is causing the problem I'm having, but l am a bit in the dark about it. 99% of the documents, photos, and videos I've found are for N14's, and the N18 stuff I did find doesn't cover this.
#9
#10
The 3rd cam is called the intermediate camshaft and it is only controlled by the servo motor where the HPFP is. I am not sure if the vanos will change the position to adjust timing.
The way I do timing is intake cam, tensioner, exhaust cam, then crankshaft.
here is some readings the might help....make sure the vanos sprockets are where they need to be. IN on the intake and EX on the exhaust.
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/r...shaft/DdIB1FjG
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/r...-gear/Dk1vDACA
The way I do timing is intake cam, tensioner, exhaust cam, then crankshaft.
here is some readings the might help....make sure the vanos sprockets are where they need to be. IN on the intake and EX on the exhaust.
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/r...shaft/DdIB1FjG
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/r...-gear/Dk1vDACA
#11
The 3rd cam is called the intermediate camshaft and it is only controlled by the servo motor where the HPFP is. I am not sure if the vanos will change the position to adjust timing.
The way I do timing is intake cam, tensioner, exhaust cam, then crankshaft.
here is some readings the might help....make sure the vanos sprockets are where they need to be. IN on the intake and EX on the exhaust.
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/r...shaft/DdIB1FjG
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/r...-gear/Dk1vDACA
The way I do timing is intake cam, tensioner, exhaust cam, then crankshaft.
here is some readings the might help....make sure the vanos sprockets are where they need to be. IN on the intake and EX on the exhaust.
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/r...shaft/DdIB1FjG
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/r...-gear/Dk1vDACA
#12
I am embarrassed to say that my dad was looking over the work we did to the car and he found that I accidentally swapped the cam sprockets. ��We swapped then back, reset timing, Crunk it up, drove it, aannnddd about a minute into the drive the CEL came on and the car went into limp home mode. P1338 & 1339 camshaft position. We checked timing and it's fine. *sigh*
#14
Yep, one came should show inlet stamped "IN" on the back side and one outlet stamped "EX"
https://www.ecstuning.com/Mini-2011-...ngine/Timing/2
https://www.ecstuning.com/Mini-2011-...ngine/Timing/2
__________________
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
#15
Cams were not swapped. I'm pretty sure that can't be done considering that the opposite ends are different. I was very careful to keep the cams, rockers, brackets, tapits, and hardware organized during disassembly. I guess I just got to talking to family and lost concentration while installing the sprockets.
#16
New problem
At this point, the engine cranks and runs great. We can bring it up to a proper temperature and there is no smoke coming from the exhaust, thanks to the new valve stem seals.
The problem we are having is after about a minute of driving, a CEL comes on and it goes into limp home mode. After clearing the codes, and restarting the car, it goes back to normal. The codes are P1338 and p1339, both camshaft position sensors. The car is in time, confirmed by the timing locking tools and checking that all the pistons are at the same position. While parked, it does not do this, only driving. It can go through the entire Rev range with no issues. I don't think the cam sensors are bad, but I ordered a set anyway.
What is the ECU expecting to see after about a minute of driving? What is changing?
If I can't figure this out, my only other choice is to trailer it to the stealership, OR Way Motor Works.
The problem we are having is after about a minute of driving, a CEL comes on and it goes into limp home mode. After clearing the codes, and restarting the car, it goes back to normal. The codes are P1338 and p1339, both camshaft position sensors. The car is in time, confirmed by the timing locking tools and checking that all the pistons are at the same position. While parked, it does not do this, only driving. It can go through the entire Rev range with no issues. I don't think the cam sensors are bad, but I ordered a set anyway.
What is the ECU expecting to see after about a minute of driving? What is changing?
If I can't figure this out, my only other choice is to trailer it to the stealership, OR Way Motor Works.
#18
#21
#22
Update
The sensors came in yesterday. I installed them today, same result. I emailed WMW and it may be while before I can free up some money to have them look at it.
I noticed on stuff i found on instaling/replacing the eccentric shaft that it shows placing it a minimum lift. I did not have this info when I put things back together so I put it in the way it came out. With the key off, mine sat completely in the opposite direction, I'm assuming that's maximum lift. So this weekend, we are going remove it and reinstall it at minimum lift to see if it makes a difference.
Variable valve gear installation
Here is how mine sat before I removed it
I noticed on stuff i found on instaling/replacing the eccentric shaft that it shows placing it a minimum lift. I did not have this info when I put things back together so I put it in the way it came out. With the key off, mine sat completely in the opposite direction, I'm assuming that's maximum lift. So this weekend, we are going remove it and reinstall it at minimum lift to see if it makes a difference.
Variable valve gear installation
Here is how mine sat before I removed it
Last edited by Andy Lee; 09-25-2018 at 05:12 PM.