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N18 timing off after timing chain replacement

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Old 09-18-2018, 12:12 AM
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N18 timing off after timing chain replacement

HELP! My 2011 MCS Clubman (n18 engine) jumps time after replacing the timing chain and valve seals. I followed the instructions from several sources, and used the required timing lock tools. I put everything back together and Crunk it twice. Then I removed the valve cover to recheck timing and the intake cam was about 35 degrees behind the locking position. I reset it, check torque on the cam bolts and tried again... Same result. Any ideas?
 
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Old 09-18-2018, 06:13 AM
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did you lock the crankshaft also?

in which order did you tighten and torque the bolts?

what are your torque numbers you used and did you replace the cams bolts?
 
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Old 09-18-2018, 07:08 AM
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Yup... those TTY bolts are single use for a reason! Also... it can be tricky getting the crank locked correctly. It is easy to think you have the crank lock tool completely inserted in the right place when it is not!
 
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Old 09-18-2018, 08:38 AM
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I'm trying to figure out what went wrong. If you locked both cams and crank and tensioned the chain, all that is left to do is lock down both cams and crank sprockets bolts. I inserted wooden skewer into the spark plugs holes and manually rotated the crank. After two rotations when the sticks were even again, I was good to go. Let us know how it goes.
 
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Old 09-18-2018, 09:20 AM
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Originally Posted by MiniToBe
did you lock the crankshaft also?
Yes

Originally Posted by MiniToBe
in which order did you tighten and torque the bolts?
Crank, intake cam, exhaust cam

Originally Posted by MiniToBe
what are your torque numbers you used and did you replace the cams bolts?
According to a pdf I found from Bentleypublisher.com.
 
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Old 09-18-2018, 09:33 AM
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Originally Posted by S-2013
I'm trying to figure out what went wrong. If you locked both cams and crank and tensioned the chain, all that is left to do is lock down both cams and crank sprockets bolts. I inserted wooden skewer into the spark plugs holes and manually rotated the crank. After two rotations when the sticks were even again, I was good to go. Let us know how it goes.
After locking the crank and cams, I wanted to make sure the pistons were flat across the combustion chambers. I used a piece of solid wire, lowered it into #1, and grabbed it with fingers were the wire was just above head. Then repeated the process on the other cylinders while keeping my fingers in place. All cylinders were level.
​​​
 
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Old 09-18-2018, 09:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Andy Lee
Crank, intake cam, exhaust cam.
I suppose you did the tentioner before them, right?
 
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Old 09-18-2018, 09:50 AM
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3rd cam

I had to remove the 3rd cam (under the intake cam) in order to replace the valve stem seals. At the time, I was sure what that cam did, but took several photos and made a few location marks so I would be able to put everything back in the same position. I couldn't find anything on this 3rd cam. But I noticed while looking at the engine with valve cover off and having someone turn the car on(not cranking it), that the 3rd cam turns to open the intake valves before a startup.

I don't think it is causing the problem I'm having, but l am a bit in the dark about it. 99% of the documents, photos, and videos I've found are for N14's, and the N18 stuff I did find doesn't cover this.
 
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Old 09-18-2018, 09:54 AM
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Originally Posted by MiniToBe
I suppose you did the tentioner before them, right?
I installed the pretensioner, torqued bolts to spec, removed pretensioner and installed the new tensioner.
 
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Old 09-18-2018, 10:10 AM
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The 3rd cam is called the intermediate camshaft and it is only controlled by the servo motor where the HPFP is. I am not sure if the vanos will change the position to adjust timing.

The way I do timing is intake cam, tensioner, exhaust cam, then crankshaft.

here is some readings the might help....make sure the vanos sprockets are where they need to be. IN on the intake and EX on the exhaust.

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/r...shaft/DdIB1FjG

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/r...-gear/Dk1vDACA
 
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Old 09-18-2018, 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by MiniToBe
The 3rd cam is called the intermediate camshaft and it is only controlled by the servo motor where the HPFP is. I am not sure if the vanos will change the position to adjust timing.

The way I do timing is intake cam, tensioner, exhaust cam, then crankshaft.

here is some readings the might help....make sure the vanos sprockets are where they need to be. IN on the intake and EX on the exhaust.

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/r...shaft/DdIB1FjG

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/r...-gear/Dk1vDACA
Thanks, I was just on that database, looking at a couple related articles. According to one regarding 3rd cam (eccentric shaft), I installed it at max lift. I reinstalled it based on photos and marks as I said earlier, but the article says to install it at minimum lift. I dunno
​​​​​
 
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Old 09-18-2018, 05:43 PM
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I am embarrassed to say that my dad was looking over the work we did to the car and he found that I accidentally swapped the cam sprockets. ��We swapped then back, reset timing, Crunk it up, drove it, aannnddd about a minute into the drive the CEL came on and the car went into limp home mode. P1338 & 1339 camshaft position. We checked timing and it's fine. *sigh*
 
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Old 09-19-2018, 05:28 AM
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it is a good thing that it didnt move now...since the sprocket were swapped, i wonder if the cams also were swapped. can you confirm the lettering the on them? also, make sure the sensors are plugged all the way in.
 
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Old 09-19-2018, 06:56 AM
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Yep, one came should show inlet stamped "IN" on the back side and one outlet stamped "EX"

https://www.ecstuning.com/Mini-2011-...ngine/Timing/2
 
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Old 09-19-2018, 12:03 PM
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Cams were not swapped. I'm pretty sure that can't be done considering that the opposite ends are different. I was very careful to keep the cams, rockers, brackets, tapits, and hardware organized during disassembly. I guess I just got to talking to family and lost concentration while installing the sprockets.
 
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Old 09-20-2018, 02:27 PM
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New problem

At this point, the engine cranks and runs great. We can bring it up to a proper temperature and there is no smoke coming from the exhaust, thanks to the new valve stem seals.

The problem we are having is after about a minute of driving, a CEL comes on and it goes into limp home mode. After clearing the codes, and restarting the car, it goes back to normal. The codes are P1338 and p1339, both camshaft position sensors. The car is in time, confirmed by the timing locking tools and checking that all the pistons are at the same position. While parked, it does not do this, only driving. It can go through the entire Rev range with no issues. I don't think the cam sensors are bad, but I ordered a set anyway.

What is the ECU expecting to see after about a minute of driving? What is changing?

If I can't figure this out, my only other choice is to trailer it to the stealership, OR Way Motor Works.
 
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Old 09-21-2018, 06:47 AM
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what happens if you disconnect one sensor at a time and start the car each time a sensor is not connected?
 
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Old 09-21-2018, 11:47 AM
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Originally Posted by MiniToBe
what happens if you disconnect one sensor at a time and start the car each time a sensor is not connected?
I'll try it and let you know
 
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Old 09-21-2018, 02:36 PM
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Just tried, I get faults related to the disconnected sensor immediately
 
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Old 09-21-2018, 02:38 PM
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The cams position sensors right? When you disconnect them no new codes other than those two?
 
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Old 09-22-2018, 09:33 AM
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Yes, I disconnected 1 cam sensor at a time as you suggested. Immediately open starting the car I get a CEL. I don't recall the code but it was NOT the previous codes(P1338 p1339).
 
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Old 09-25-2018, 03:32 PM
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Update

The sensors came in yesterday. I installed them today, same result. ​​​​​​I emailed WMW and it may be while before I can free up some money to have them look at it.
I noticed on stuff i found on instaling/replacing the eccentric shaft that it shows placing it a minimum lift. I did not have this info when I put things back together so I put it in the way it came out. With the key off, mine sat completely in the opposite direction, I'm assuming that's maximum lift. So this weekend, we are going remove it and reinstall it at minimum lift to see if it makes a difference.


Variable valve gear installation

Here is how mine sat before I removed it​​​​​
 

Last edited by Andy Lee; 09-25-2018 at 05:12 PM.
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Old 09-25-2018, 04:00 PM
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Old 09-26-2018, 04:21 AM
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you dont have to remove it, "Adjust eccentric shaft to minimum lift (1) via the actuator drive"
 
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Old 09-26-2018, 08:27 AM
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Check timing again and replace your crank and cam sensors first. My hunch something is going on with those sensors.
 


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