My upper right motor mount is definitely shot on my 65000 mile R52. Any opinions/experience on if OEM is best choice? It looks like I can get the OEM mount for $100-$120, or a cheap aftermarket for half price, or the Vibra-Technics for about double price. Basically, are the cheap ones garbage, or is the Vibra-Technics (or some other premium one) worth it?

 

I think so, i have the motor, trans and lower mount all vibra techniques and the drive train is solid.... $1k, but no problems and installed two years ago, with intent to keep car

 

Depends, if you have a Header, you definitely want a good one, it will save the flex tube, which in turn saves you from repairing or replacing the Header.

If you don't mind changing it every 50-60k get the OEM, but if you don't want to change it again, get the good one.

Personally I wouldn't by the cheap one, no matter.

 

For OEM, this looks like a really good deal. Definitely not spending $1k on engine mounts right now when I'm prioritizing suspension and engine improvements.

OEM FRONT & REAR ENGINE MOUNT, TORX BOLT SET - $125 shipped

 

Just as an FYI, the lower mounts usually hold up pretty well for non performance applications, zero it probably doesn't need changing.
And make sure you order the correct one for your year, there were 2 different designs for the r53/r52, the change was in mid-late 2004.
What we call Pre-Facelift to Facelift.

 

The Vibra-Technics is stiffer than the OEM mount and the engine rocks less every time you apply and release power. If you have manual transmission, you'll like the more direct feeling it gives to the clutch.

 

Between my two MINI's I have replaced 6 upper mounts at $80 each, 4 on my R50 (just gets driven more) and 2 on the R53. $480 in parts. I put the Vibra on my R50. $200 for the Vibra is still less then the $320 I had already spent on the OEMs and now I know that I will never have to replace it again. I will replace the OEM in the R53 when it looses its goo with a Vibra.

If yo do by the Vibra, direct you browser to the .co.uk site. Even with the $35 in shipping, it's less then buying from a domestic company, at least it was when I got mine.

 

 

This is my fun car so I went with the you get what you pay for route. Vibra-Technics uppers and lower, PowerFlex everywhere else on the car.

 

You won't be disappointed, replacing the inadequate stock engine mounts was one of the first things I did to my R53.

 

I too went the vibratechnics street mount route for the upper and transmission mount. The lower torque mount is the BHS one though. Super happy with that combination.

 

I have the same setup on the JCW and quite like it.

 

I have all 3 vibratechnics and I got them from www.greeneperformance.com
he had them in stock and the prices were good.

 

I kept breaking flex pipes on my track car, put in a solid lower a couple weeks ago and the vibrations at startup are pretty incredible, I was not expecting there to be that much! I don't really notice it too much driving on the street but it does add "noise" into the steering wheel. If I loose feel on the track I might have to take it out and modify a stock bushing instead.

 

No doubt about that,
good advice.

I'm glad that I researched a little on NAM before I changed mine out and saw a warning of this, so I had a new bolt ready on hand.

I was astounded at how corroded the original was.

 

When I replaced my OE mount I too was taken aback by the extend of the corrosion. Now looking at your photos it becomes obvious why. The long bolt was designed to be the sacrificial anode as the R53.2 upper mount housing is made of stainless steel. Without a corrosion mitigating device the mild steel box beam will be the one to rust. The zinc plated long bolt is there to sacrifice itself to save the Mini chassis, and is doing a hell of a job.

On the motor mount, one thing that I really regret is throwing away the expired OE mount. I tried to open it but decided that I didn't want to risk a trip to ER. A few industrious Miniacs over at MiniTorque has turned them into poor men's Vibra Technics by filling its innards with polyurethane.

 

GOOD STUFF!

Viewing it from the perspective that the bolt acts as a sacrificial anode is interesting,
thanks for adding that viewpoint.

Also,
thanks for the MT link --- I'm pro-hobo in many cases and the poly fill idea is a good one!

Speaking of saving money,
it was thanks to you that I didn't fall into the trap of an overpriced oil dipstick and settled for a Chinese cheapie which has performed flawlessly with no problems whatsoever.

 

I forgot to mention that is another cheaper failsafe upper mount for R53.2 or R52. It is my Vibrate Technics (read the spelling again ) post. However after performing road test I decided that I don't want that much vibration.

Seriously this cheaper alternative may be worth considering if you don't want to spend a few hundred dollars on the real thing.

 

Vibrate Technics!

I never saw that SuperPro insert before and didn't know it existed.

I recently installed a Powerflex lower mount bush...

https://www.powerflexusa.com/shop/pr...e-bushing-2311

...and the vibration increased rather dramatically at idle, which can be somewhat annoying but I really love the rumble in the seat at all other times.
I did include the black insert so that probably added a little extra vibrato!



I bet those BSH solid mounts are at earthquake avalanche vibro level.

 

I would never consider the BSH. See Mr. Blah post above. I think the Powerflex you installed is a good compromise if you want to reduce the engine rocking. Did you choose the street version?

 

Yeah,
the yellow 70A durometer plus the black 95A insert.
The insert is optional and offers even more compromise because I suspect if it is not added then the vibration would be slightly less.

 

I agree as it will leave some air gaps. With this does the car past the threshold of causing the plastic trims and glovebox door to rattle? I dread that on a road car. I chose Race front LCA bushings and fortunately they don't reduce ride comfort nor steering wheel feedback. All positives and no negative that I can identify. I am very wary with stiffening of the three drive train mount. I think the one at the gearbox side is the least offensive, followed by the top mount.

 

In my case it doesn't add too much rattle, but it does add a certain amount which seems to be dependent on harmonic frequency or something because it doesn't always rattle. When it does, it is usually from the speedo dashtop area. I did notice also an increase in "noise" transmitted through the steering wheel --- it almost entirely changed the cabin sound/feel of the car.

Low rpm's are the only concern in my case, for the most part when at rolling speed there aren't much rattles.

 

I have the TSW upper motor mount, BSH lower motor mount and Powerflex gearbox poly inserts. I don't really mind the added vibrations, it's more fun in general when shifting when the engine stays put.

If I want comfort, I'll just drive my '14 Corolla with its 5 feet of engine play.

 

For my personal taste, it's Vibra-Technics (or TSW) all the way. I went through two OEM hydraulic upper motor mounts (one leaked after maybe 20k) before I said screw it, and paid the extra money for it. Won't ever go back to the hydraulic version. Yes, it's more expensive, but it's three times as good as it'll unlikely ever fail.

If you go with OEM, I think you're wasting your money.

/$0.02