Drivetrain Recommend Me Brake Pads
#1
Recommend Me Brake Pads
Dunno if this belongs under "drivetrain" but I don't see a better category.
So I'm currently running EBC Redstuff all around on my car with SP slotted rotors. I also have the JCW 4 pot Brembos in the front, stock Cooper S calipers in the rear. This past summer I've done a few upstate mountain driving runs with my club and while the Reds work fine for my every day driving I've overheated them a few times in the mountain roads hauling it down from 60-70 to 20-30 for a turn. Scary stuff to say the least when I have 2 turns back to back and on the second turn my foot is to the floor trying to stop. And this upcoming driving season I'll be making even more power with my new turbo setup and undoubtedly be going a little faster. I've heard good things about the Hawk HP Plus even for track use but I don't know if I want to deal with the potential noise and cement-like dust. I could also just make the logical move from Reds to Yellowstuff or even Blue/Orange. I also don't really want to shell out $200+ for Carbotechs.
What's NAM's opinions on stopping power?
So I'm currently running EBC Redstuff all around on my car with SP slotted rotors. I also have the JCW 4 pot Brembos in the front, stock Cooper S calipers in the rear. This past summer I've done a few upstate mountain driving runs with my club and while the Reds work fine for my every day driving I've overheated them a few times in the mountain roads hauling it down from 60-70 to 20-30 for a turn. Scary stuff to say the least when I have 2 turns back to back and on the second turn my foot is to the floor trying to stop. And this upcoming driving season I'll be making even more power with my new turbo setup and undoubtedly be going a little faster. I've heard good things about the Hawk HP Plus even for track use but I don't know if I want to deal with the potential noise and cement-like dust. I could also just make the logical move from Reds to Yellowstuff or even Blue/Orange. I also don't really want to shell out $200+ for Carbotechs.
What's NAM's opinions on stopping power?
#2
First thing is to flush your brake fluid with some high temp fluid - I have been happy with Motul RBF600 for multiple track days. After that, EBC Reds should hold up well unless you are really using the brakes hard for 15+ minutes continuously.
Regarding brake pads: my 2nd to last track day with my son and I doing alternating sessions, 20 minutes me, 20 min cool down, 20 min my son, 20 min cool down, we cooked a set of EBC Yellows in the JCW Brembos. I was surprised by that because previously I had been very happy with EBC yellows on the stock MCS brakes. Last track day, I was using Carbotech 1521s because the XP10s I had ordered hadn't shipped on time. So it was 20 minutes me, 20 minutes my son, 20 minutes cool down (only 3 run groups) and no problems all day. I'm currently using EBC reds all 4 wheels and haven't had any issues.
Regarding brake pads: my 2nd to last track day with my son and I doing alternating sessions, 20 minutes me, 20 min cool down, 20 min my son, 20 min cool down, we cooked a set of EBC Yellows in the JCW Brembos. I was surprised by that because previously I had been very happy with EBC yellows on the stock MCS brakes. Last track day, I was using Carbotech 1521s because the XP10s I had ordered hadn't shipped on time. So it was 20 minutes me, 20 minutes my son, 20 minutes cool down (only 3 run groups) and no problems all day. I'm currently using EBC reds all 4 wheels and haven't had any issues.
#3
First thing is to flush your brake fluid with some high temp fluid - I have been happy with Motul RBF600 for multiple track days. After that, EBC Reds should hold up well unless you are really using the brakes hard for 15+ minutes continuously.
Regarding brake pads: my 2nd to last track day with my son and I doing alternating sessions, 20 minutes me, 20 min cool down, 20 min my son, 20 min cool down, we cooked a set of EBC Yellows in the JCW Brembos. I was surprised by that because previously I had been very happy with EBC yellows on the stock MCS brakes. Last track day, I was using Carbotech 1521s because the XP10s I had ordered hadn't shipped on time. So it was 20 minutes me, 20 minutes my son, 20 minutes cool down (only 3 run groups) and no problems all day. I'm currently using EBC reds all 4 wheels and haven't had any issues.
Regarding brake pads: my 2nd to last track day with my son and I doing alternating sessions, 20 minutes me, 20 min cool down, 20 min my son, 20 min cool down, we cooked a set of EBC Yellows in the JCW Brembos. I was surprised by that because previously I had been very happy with EBC yellows on the stock MCS brakes. Last track day, I was using Carbotech 1521s because the XP10s I had ordered hadn't shipped on time. So it was 20 minutes me, 20 minutes my son, 20 minutes cool down (only 3 run groups) and no problems all day. I'm currently using EBC reds all 4 wheels and haven't had any issues.
#4
#5
Vendor
iTrader: (10)
Since you have been using the Reds and pretty happy going up to the Yellows is a cost effective upgrade and will handle the higher heat.
https://www.waymotorworks.com/jcw-br...tuff-pads.html
The other option I would recommend is the G-Loc R6 as they will also handle the extra heat and still be streetable, but do cost more, as they are very similar to the Carbotech.
https://www.waymotorworks.com/g-loc-...per-s-jcw.html
https://www.waymotorworks.com/jcw-br...tuff-pads.html
The other option I would recommend is the G-Loc R6 as they will also handle the extra heat and still be streetable, but do cost more, as they are very similar to the Carbotech.
https://www.waymotorworks.com/g-loc-...per-s-jcw.html
#6
I've also read that there is a piston upgrade for the factory brembo calipers to help transfer less heat into the fluid. Isn't a soft pedal normally from boiling the fluid, or did you mean that you had enough fade that you were pushing the pedal to the floor to try and get it to stop?
Considering that the EBC yellows are $100+, unless you are confident that they will be 'enough', isn't it worth the extra $100 for pads that you will be able to trust? I'm not trying to spend your money, but I'd hate you to find out that you have enough extra HP that you're in trouble on your first trip out.
Have fun,
Mike
Considering that the EBC yellows are $100+, unless you are confident that they will be 'enough', isn't it worth the extra $100 for pads that you will be able to trust? I'm not trying to spend your money, but I'd hate you to find out that you have enough extra HP that you're in trouble on your first trip out.
Have fun,
Mike
#7
I've also read that there is a piston upgrade for the factory brembo calipers to help transfer less heat into the fluid. Isn't a soft pedal normally from boiling the fluid, or did you mean that you had enough fade that you were pushing the pedal to the floor to try and get it to stop?
Considering that the EBC yellows are $100+, unless you are confident that they will be 'enough', isn't it worth the extra $100 for pads that you will be able to trust? I'm not trying to spend your money, but I'd hate you to find out that you have enough extra HP that you're in trouble on your first trip out.
Have fun,
Mike
Considering that the EBC yellows are $100+, unless you are confident that they will be 'enough', isn't it worth the extra $100 for pads that you will be able to trust? I'm not trying to spend your money, but I'd hate you to find out that you have enough extra HP that you're in trouble on your first trip out.
Have fun,
Mike
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#8
Carbotech 1521s are a street pad and hold up to the heat, see my previous post. Or EBC Yellow. I haven't found them any dustier than the stock pads, though a little worse than EBC Red. Just get some Sonax wheel cleaner and you're set.
I have the S4S stainless piston upgrade, posted a DIY here: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...r-rebuild.html I don't think it reduces heat transfer since it's solid metal instead of plastic/metal, but others have cooked the plastic piston tops at the track so it made sense (to me, anyway) to upgrade before installing.
I have the S4S stainless piston upgrade, posted a DIY here: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...r-rebuild.html I don't think it reduces heat transfer since it's solid metal instead of plastic/metal, but others have cooked the plastic piston tops at the track so it made sense (to me, anyway) to upgrade before installing.
#9
Carbotech 1521s are a street pad and hold up to the heat, see my previous post. Or EBC Yellow. I haven't found them any dustier than the stock pads, though a little worse than EBC Red. Just get some Sonax wheel cleaner and you're set.
I have the S4S stainless piston upgrade, posted a DIY here: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...r-rebuild.html I don't think it reduces heat transfer since it's solid metal instead of plastic/metal, but others have cooked the plastic piston tops at the track so it made sense (to me, anyway) to upgrade before installing.
I have the S4S stainless piston upgrade, posted a DIY here: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...r-rebuild.html I don't think it reduces heat transfer since it's solid metal instead of plastic/metal, but others have cooked the plastic piston tops at the track so it made sense (to me, anyway) to upgrade before installing.
#10
OVERDRIVE
iTrader: (1)
Carbotech 1521s are a street pad and hold up to the heat, see my previous post. Or EBC Yellow. I haven't found them any dustier than the stock pads, though a little worse than EBC Red. Just get some Sonax wheel cleaner and you're set.
I have the S4S stainless piston upgrade, posted a DIY here: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...r-rebuild.html I don't think it reduces heat transfer since it's solid metal instead of plastic/metal, but others have cooked the plastic piston tops at the track so it made sense (to me, anyway) to upgrade before installing.
I have the S4S stainless piston upgrade, posted a DIY here: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...r-rebuild.html I don't think it reduces heat transfer since it's solid metal instead of plastic/metal, but others have cooked the plastic piston tops at the track so it made sense (to me, anyway) to upgrade before installing.
That said, overall my opinion of Carbotech pads is otherwise very positive. The Carbotech pads are reasonably street friendly and their dust is less agressive than other high temperature pads. I have driven the XP10s on the street. They perform very well, even cold and my only negative observation is that they are a bit noisy (as in “squeals”). I have run the XP8s in the rear for multiple summers (I leave them in during track season and only change the fronts) and they made a great street pad. A bit dusty, though, but not as bad as the stock MINI pads. The Carbotech pads are also not as agressive on rotor wear as some other pads (Hawk, for one). I would suggest running the Carbotech XP8 all the way around. I know that the conventional wisdom is that the rears don’t do any braking, but, really they do and a good pad in the rear will take some of the load off the fronts (that is, the fronts won’t heat up as much). Glock pads are very similar and their equivalent would probably do just as well.
It will be interesting as to what you come up with... although right now, over heated pads shouldn’t be an issue with the sub-zero temps coming up...
Last edited by Eddie07S; 01-31-2019 at 12:44 PM. Reason: Fix typo
#11
#13
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ECSTuning (02-28-2019)
#14
It is interesting the different experiences that people have with the same brake pads. My experience with the 1521’s was that they had very little bite and it took a lot of force to get any stopping power out of them. As a result I never got them into an agressive braking situation. I wonder if Carbotech changed them since I last used them....
I have been thinking about swapping to the GP2 master cylinder to see what that will do.
#15
OVERDRIVE
iTrader: (1)
When I first got into taking my MINI to the track, my friends who had a lot of track experience at that time pushed on me to get the Carbotech XP10s (glad they did as the Hawk HPS pads I tried only lasted 2 sessions). They were also familiar with the 1521s and, according to what they had read/heard, Carbotech had been getting complaints about the bite with those pads. “Unofficial” they suggested to people to use the AX-6 (the autocross pad) for the street. I used the 1521s as Carbotech is adamant about not mixing their pad materials with other brands of brake pad materials.
#16
Whatever you go with, stay away from HP+ pads. Playing in the mountains today I got the rotors hot enough to turn blue, smell pad, generally pushing the brakes pretty hard.
While the pedal never went away or even got soft, the HP+ are horrid on a street mini, squeel squeel squeel squeel, sound like a school bus at every stop.
I like the performance and bite, but I'll be jumping ship to 1521 or the next step up from Carbotech. The other vehicles I've used HP+ on weren't this bad and noisy.
While the pedal never went away or even got soft, the HP+ are horrid on a street mini, squeel squeel squeel squeel, sound like a school bus at every stop.
I like the performance and bite, but I'll be jumping ship to 1521 or the next step up from Carbotech. The other vehicles I've used HP+ on weren't this bad and noisy.
#17
OVERDRIVE
iTrader: (1)
Whatever you go with, stay away from HP+ pads. Playing in the mountains today I got the rotors hot enough to turn blue, smell pad, generally pushing the brakes pretty hard.
While the pedal never went away or even got soft, the HP+ are horrid on a street mini, squeel squeel squeel squeel, sound like a school bus at every stop.
I like the performance and bite, but I'll be jumping ship to 1521 or the next step up from Carbotech. The other vehicles I've used HP+ on weren't this bad and noisy.
While the pedal never went away or even got soft, the HP+ are horrid on a street mini, squeel squeel squeel squeel, sound like a school bus at every stop.
I like the performance and bite, but I'll be jumping ship to 1521 or the next step up from Carbotech. The other vehicles I've used HP+ on weren't this bad and noisy.
let us know how you make out...
#18
I did my first track day on the Thunderhill 3 mi east course and the stock brake pads/rotors held up well after 5 20-minute sessions. Only thing I ended up doing was changing the brake fluid a week before with some Prestone DOT4 so nothing special. During the sessions I had no issues with fade and never lost confidence in my brakes. Now of course they're super squishy so I'll replace pads/rotors with something more suitable for more track days/backroads. I was pleasantly surprised at the performance of the brake fluid but for next time I'll try out the Motul
#19
If you do the math, the piston area for the JCW front calipers vs.the S front calipers is the same. The GP2 master cylinder is (as I understand it) higher volume for better pedal feel with the big GP2 front calipers because there's more piston area. With the JCW calipers the GP2 master cylinder would increase pressure at the piston for the same pedal travel so the brakes would have a more immediate feel. Possibly harder to modulate though.
#20
OVERDRIVE
iTrader: (1)
If you do the math, the piston area for the JCW front calipers vs.the S front calipers is the same. The GP2 master cylinder is (as I understand it) higher volume for better pedal feel with the big GP2 front calipers because there's more piston area. With the JCW calipers the GP2 master cylinder would increase pressure at the piston for the same pedal travel so the brakes would have a more immediate feel. Possibly harder to modulate though.
With the piston in the master cylinder being larger, it will move more fluid from the master cylinder to the caliper for the same amount of pedal travel, which will cause the reaction at the caliper to be more immediate, as you said. The Wilwood setup does the this same thing but by putting smaller pistons in the calipers. I find that modulation is still very good, and it makes heal and toe a bit easier to perform as there is less brake pedal movement to deal with. What I don’t remember is how much of change there was when I changed to the Wilwoods. I also don’t recall it being a real radical change either. I can say I am pleased with it. If the GP master cylinder makes a similar change to the “feel”, then I would think it would be a good move to put it in.
#21
That's an awesome shot!
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scotty_r56s (03-01-2019)
#22
So I figured I'd post an update on this topic. Wound up going with.... *drumroll*
Carbotech XP10s.
Why? Some guy in my club happened to be selling a brand new set for half retail price because he bought the wrong pads and couldn't return them. Gladly took those off his hands. I'll be installing them in about two weeks along with some brand new slotted rotors, then I have a trip to Tail of the Dragon in mid-April to test them out. I'll post further updates on the noise and dust levels. I'm curious to see exactly how streetable (or not streetable) these race brakes are.
Carbotech XP10s.
Why? Some guy in my club happened to be selling a brand new set for half retail price because he bought the wrong pads and couldn't return them. Gladly took those off his hands. I'll be installing them in about two weeks along with some brand new slotted rotors, then I have a trip to Tail of the Dragon in mid-April to test them out. I'll post further updates on the noise and dust levels. I'm curious to see exactly how streetable (or not streetable) these race brakes are.
#24