Hi all.

Needing to swap out the turbo on my 09 fJCW, and I have a few questions that I'm hoping you can help with!

I don't fancy putting the car into service mode as it seems a bit of a faff and I have small hands
Is it possible to unbolt the turbo from the manifold while its on the car or am I better off removing the manifold? My oil lines are only about 500km old, should I have replacements on hand? I know they're prone to leaking but hoping I should get away with mine seeing as they're almost new...
I'm planning on fitting an aftermarket ic while I'm at it, and also putting in a new diverter valve too for good measure. Anything else I should change while I'm in there?
I absolutely love these cars but sometimes they really try my patience!
Thanks in advance for al your help!

 

Service mode doesn't take very long, and it does make things easier, and I think it actually saves time (not to mention frustration) overall.

You can remove the turbo from the exhaust manifold while the manifold stays attached to the head - no problem. If I remember correctly, that's what I did.

The hollow/banjo bolts fatigue and can break...I'd have those on hand (this happened to me...I was using a torque wrench, so I didn't over-tighten it, and it just broke off). I'd recommend getting the washers as well. turbo to downpipe flange nuts and studs aren't required, but could help. When I swapped out my turbo, I removed the downpipe....if you're doing the same, you might need a new v-clamp because they can be tough to remove intact.

While you have the turbo out, consider replacing the oil filter housing and oil cooler seals...much easier to get to with the turbo and downpipe out.

Which replacement turbo are you going with?

Best of luck, and keep us posted on your progress!

 

 

What bugeye1031 said, plus you'll want...


Seal ring between turbo/manifold
Down pipe gasket
Lower down pipe joint clamp
A couple of extra turbo/manifold studs/nuts
New turbo oil return pipe (your's is now nine years old)
About 10 heat shield bolts (use anti seize when installing new ones)
Anti seize (smear a thin film on the mating surfaces of the lower down pipe joint to reduce binding)

DO replace the seals on the oil cooler/filter housing, they will leak within another year so.
It is very challenging to replace the turbo when not in service mode.

ECS Tuning has everything you need, use after market where you can

BTW, the plastic wheel arch retainers can be pushed out from inside the fender when placing the car in service mode.

 

 

Odds are that the lower down pipe clamp bolt is badly corroded. A right angle grinder makes removing it a snap by cutting the bolt. Generous amounts of anti-seize on the new clamp bolt will prevent that in the future.

 

Hey all, got the swap done over the weekend, wasn't half as bad as I was expecting to be honest! Didn't go into service mode, and found that it was pretty easy to get the turbo out. Once the manifold was loose I was able to slide it forward and unbolt the turbo and take them out as separate units. Think it took about 6 hours in total, not sure because a neighbour called in the middle of it needing some welding done in a hurry.

All back together and feels like I have full boost, but have what sounds like a whirring noise. Not there when revving it when stationary, only when on the move. Assuming I may have a small boost leak or else possibly a loose heat shield. I'll investigate further during the week but im open to all suggestions!

Thanks again everyone for the advice and help!

 

Less than 6 hours? Hats off!


Did you leave the lower portions of the heat shield in place?


Not sure about the whirring noise, doubt its a boost leak. Failing belt tensioner pulley?


Post some audio of the whirring?

 

Pulled the studs from the turbo which allowed enough play to drop the cat/downpipe with the heat shields in place. Removed the shields then as one unit to allow me to change the oil feed pipe and replace my manifold gasket. Worked out pretty well, and found that with a combination of extensions and deep sockets that the manifold nuts were pretty straightforward to get to!

Kind of difficult to get the audio as the noise is very quiet and barely noticeable. I never locked the tabs on the battery cover when I re installed it, apparently this can cause a noise similar but im not holding my breath on it being the issue!

Also noticed that my cold air intake pipe (the once with the duct in the grille) is massively loose at the airbox end, theres nothing there to firmly hold the pipe in place. Im assuming im missing a clip or collar of some sort but even real oem isn't shining any light on it for me!
Very unimpressed too with the garage that worked on this car last (before my ownership). Theres a multitude of small bits and pieces missing from the engine bay such as the clip for the washer bottle to hold it in place and the bolt securing the cold side of the intercooler piping! Only little things I know, but I certainly wouldn't hand back a car missing bits, especially without informing someone!

 

The cold air pipe has a bayonet type fitting to the airbox. You have to twist both slightly to engage. Rotate the airbox so that the top goes toward the firewall and try to rotate the air pipe in the opposite direction, it should not take too much offset between the two for engagement to take place. It can be a bit tricky to get right the first time. It had me fooled for a while....