I want to toss a noise maker onto my recently purchased and rebuilt r56 S and I recently purchased one that was supposed to work (website check said "OK") but after attempting to install it theres no way it'll fit. Do I have the right style?

It looks like this with the tapered sides


Theres also another style like this one, with stepped sides and I'm not sure if its shorter or not.




Also first post... so heres my mini.

 

Yup, the second one.

There are several threads on this, search for "forge blow off adapter N14". Some people say it works just fine. Others report getting a CEL because the air that the ECU expected to be re-circulated was instead dumped. Whatever, you'll increase the turbo lag when going from on the throttle to off then back on again.

Welcome to NAM!

 

I have a Torque Solutons spacer sitting in my garage. I used it for about 200 miles and took it off. I have an N18 motor and at first it made all the right noises and worked fine but eventually I started to get a loud whistle when getting into boost and I was hitting about 4psi lower than normal. I took it off and everything went back to normal. I don't think it was an install error because I checked the bolts before taking it off and driving it around and they were tight. I think what happened was the ECU didn't like not seeing the air diverted back in. I cant speak for N14 motors but the N18 definitely doesn't like a BOV vise a DV.

 

I've had the TS diverter plate on my N18 for the past ~30k miles and no issue. Its possible your OEM diverter valve is still leaking, but since its recirculating, you just can't hear it anymore.

 

No. I had the older diaphragm DV when I first installed it so I thought it was ripped, when I took it apart it was fine and then I still ordered the Newest OEM DV which doesn't have a diaphragm and it still whistled at WOT and would make max boost. without the spacer Im spiking 21-22 psi and hold til about 5300rpm where it slowly tapers to 18 psi because the turbo is out of breathe

 

TurboSmart 50/50 BOV

Been absolutely flawless since installed and handles 25 psi without breaking a sweat.

 

I've been looking at the Turbosmart Kompact DV. I have an issue right now when running map c I spike up to 22psi around 3k rpm and it sounds like the OEM DV is being pushed open very briefly. I have the most up to date OEM DV. I thought it was over boost protection but I heard its supposed to be disabled in manic tune.

 

It's been a while since I've spoken to Nick so I can't comment on the Manic tune. On our own tunes we raise the fuel cut limit on the MCS to 1.55 bar (22.5 psi) which is as high as the MCS MAP sensor can read. This is done for safety reasons as the MAF sensor on the MCS can only read up to ~23.5 lbs/min of air. Which translates to approx 235bhp. The engine can also calculate air entering the engine by looking at the delta between the MAP and TMAP sensors. If you are taking in more air than either the MAF or MAP sensors can see you can run the risk of damaging the motor. Our vehicles operate in closed loop lambda all the time so it will always try to hit the fuel target. If however the ecu can't tell how much air is going into the engine it will be in a reactionary mode at WOT. That's a pretty good recipe to lose an exhaust valve. It's not the end of the world though as the JCW MAP sensors can be installed in an MCS and the ECU recalibrated to read them properly. Recently we did this for an MCS customer with an electronic boost controller and large K04 hybrid. He also builds race cars for a living so the engine will probably be built later. By replacing the sensors we were able to safely raise his fuel cut to 1.8 bar so that when he's ready, his tune will be also.

For those that want to know, with JCW sensors the fuel cut can be reliably raised to 2.2 bar (32 psi) and fueling calculated based on what's entering the engine, not what's coming out the backside after combustion has already occurred.

 

With all of this said...am I going to run into problems by switching to a JCW turbo? I understand the tune should be trying to stay at target boost but if I'm already getting 22.5+ spikes on the S turbo won't the issue just get worse? I want the JCW turbo for the top and power.

 

What's the downside of a turbosmart plumb back instead,
looks cheaper and no silly woosh noises is a bonus in my mind

 

It's very possible your boost spikes will get worse. PID control of boost pressure isn't a one size fits all. You can try extending the wastegate two turns out and it may alleviate the problem for you. Having said that however I recommend you have the ECU re-calibrated by your tuner of choice. Fuel calculations are based on load. One factor of load is the amount of air entering the engine. There are two maps in the ECU that describe the performance of the turbo fitted. These and other maps in conjunction with your sensors ultimately determine fueling. Around town cruising and part throttle are no issue but WOT is where adjustments need to be made.

 

No real downside to speak of. The plumb back unit was designed for the N18 which has tighter tolerances in regards to loss of metered air. If you dump to atmosphere on an untuned N18 you will get a CEL. If there is a downside its that the air being recirculated has already been compressed and is therefore heated. The amount of heated air in comparison to the total intake charge in negligible in my opinion though.

It's really more of a personal choice in my opinion. I wasn't sure I'd like the 50/50 valve. Thought it might be a bit to ricey for my taste but I ended up liking it.

 

IDK. I've been talking to Mario back and forth over a few day. He said he hasn't heard of the issue before. I mean all it really means to me is Don't floor it until over 3000rpm if I have full traction. If I slam the gas from a stop it just spins thru 1st and second then hooks and goes. the quick tssshh purge only happens if I do a roll on from anything under 3k rpm with full traction. (yes TC is off.) I might check the gap on my spark plugs too. he sent me some colder plugs when I ordered the tune. maybe they need the gap closed just a little as it could just be a brief spark blowout from all the air at 22.5+ psi.

 

I'm sure Mario can help you out. Doubt it's the plugs though. I'm running NGK 1422's at 25 psi and no issue with blow out. Your probably running the same. If your comfortable wrenching try the wastegate adjustment before spending the cash on an upgraded diverter valve.