I spent some time scanning the excellent new repair manual and picked up a few things I had not been aware of that may affect us boys tweaking our rigs:

Brake bleeding: the scan tool should be hooked up and set to bleed mode (presumably to enable the ABS to be bled properly) max resevoir pressure is 29 psi

Clutch bleeding: the slave cylinder needs to be mechanically held compressed while disconnected from the trans, for pressure bleeding, they recommend you not exceed 14 psi.

Note: the brake and clutch share the same fluid resevoir, so there is an obvious inconsistency in the max bleed pressure ratings.

ECU and Relay disconnect: there are a few circuits that may still be powered for up to 5 minutes after the ign is turned off (fan, eg.), so they recommend you wait at lest 5 min after ign off before unplugging things, like the ECU and relays, lest a surge upon disconnect fry some components.

The DSC sensor is located in the parking brake handle trim unit; (Those sensors on the LF and LR control arms are for the auto headlight leveling.)

If removing the throttle body or throttle positon control, they recommend you re-set ECU codes using the scan tool.

The water temp idiot light turns on at 240 deg F.

The radiator fan turns on low whenever the AC is on or the coolant is between 221 and 214 deg F. it turns on high if the AC system pressure exceeds 18 bar, or the coolant temp exceeds 234 deg F. When the coolant temp drops 7deg F, the fan goes to low.

 

Thanks jlm for the enticing tidbits. I think like many, I ordered mine on Amazon a couple months back, and still no manual. I'm hearing November now ...

Hey, with regard to the brake bleed (which I'll be doing next week), what exactly is "the scan tool" to be used?

 

Tony, there is a person selling them on Ebay for $65 - in stock and ready to ship

 

Thanks Rick. Is this a MINI specific item? I already have the CarChip E/X which logs data and clears faults codes from the OBII port...

 

I'd also like to know about the brake bleed scan tool.

 

a few salient quotes:

"WARNING-
The ASC and DSC systems use electronic controls and a sophisticated hydraulic unit. When flushing the brake fluid from the system, use extreme care to not let the brake fluid resevoir run dry. Once air enters the hydraulic unit, it is very difficult to remove using traditional methods. For this reason, bleed brakes using a pressure bleeder and a large supply of fluid."

"use factory scan tool (DISPlus, GT1 or MoDiC to bleed the brake system."

"CAUTION-
Use factory scan tool (DISplus, GT1 or MoDiC) to recode the ABS/ASC or ABS/DSC control module if one of the following components has been removed or replaced:
-ABS/ASC or ABS/DSC control module
-Throttle-valve assembly
-Throttle potentiometer"

and:
"Connect factory scan tool (DISplus, GT1 or MoDiC) to OBD II diagnostic plug (under left side of dashboard). Call up serviice function Bleeding ABS/ASC or service function Bleeding ABS/DSC, depending on installed system."

...then you proceed with normal pressure bleeding.

 

Bentley has had the same warning for all BMWs equipped with ABS. The main issue is with the fluid trapped inside the ABS unit. I bled my old BMW without using a scan tool, and has never had any problems. If you really want to get all the fluid out, you could bleed it, go out and try to activate the ABS unit, and re-bleed. I didn't bother though.

Disclaimer: I have yet to bleed my MINI's brakes though. If MINI ABS units are different from BMWs, it might work differently. Does anyone know if they are the same?

 

I also went through the manual and it struck me that the owners manual specifies Mobil 1 5W30 or 5W40 but the Bently book actually says that above 40 degrees F it should be 15W-40. I was really surprised at that as if that is the case we should be running the heavier oil all spring, summer and fall here in the NY metro area.

Did anyone else see this. It's on page 020-8.

Rich

 

Does anyone know of an "affordable" scan tool that could do the ABS activation advised in the Bentely manual? I can't afford an $80,000 MoDic III.

Andy@Ross-tech, will the Ross-Tech software be able to do this?

Cheers,

Paul

 

jlm,

Thanks for the post. I'm going to be installing a set Adj. Control Arms (upper and lower) and I was concerned about the black box that is attached to the driver upper control arms. I searched the forum and the posts indicated that the box was for DSC. The instruction for the control arms indicated that the you simply zip tie the bracket of the black box to the upper control arms. I wasn't to keen on doing that, but if the Bentley manual refers to the box as the sensor for the headlight adj. instead of the DSC, I feel better zip tying it to the upper control arm.

Where did you purchase the book?

 

Does anyone even make a 15-40 full synth? I don't think so. I'd go by the factory manual on this one.

 

i thought mobil 1 did. it's like some performance car formula or something or another.

could be wrong. it may just be dino.

 

badassmini, i think the black box your talking about is for the auto-level on the xenon lights. there is one in the back and, one in the front. both on the US driver side.

 

Damn, I always get the wife to stomp the pedal while I bleed.

Guess I'll have to trade her in on a DISplus. Won't make much difference though 'cause she's dissing me all the time anyway.

 

From what I've found 10W40 is the closest there is. Thought I'd seen a redline product, but 15W40 seems to be for diesels only - Amsoil too. ...Are you certain you read right? ...Might that info be for the diesel?

 

The "discrepancy" really isn't one. The "W" part of the nomenclature (now theres a $5 word) is for winter. A 5W30 motor oil acts like a 5 weight oil in the winter and a 30 weight in the summer. (Less viscous in winter when oil needs to flow better, more viscous under hot conditions when a lighter oil would not protect).

Manufacturers dissovle an array of polymers and other additives to achieve these "multi-viscosity" properties. If you knew for example that you would never be operating your car in temperatures less than say 70 deg, you could just use a standard 30 weight oil (assuming all the other ingredients are present).

The manual is just suggesting that if you live in a mild climate (that doesn't get below 40 deg) you should use 15W because a 5W is not necessary. And they always suggest you go with the highest weight oil possible that is still suitable for the lowest expected temperatures. The whole purpose of multi weight oils is so that you can use the same grade YEAR ROUND.

 

My Bentley manual has shipped from Amazon! Can't wait to peruse it!


Clover

 

I got mine from Moss MINI for $69.00

 

$67.97 with free shipping from Amazon!:smile:

 

More info please?

 

I'd be weary of zip tying the light position sensor to the top control arm. The sensor arms have to be in the perfect position to work correctly. Otherwise you will end up dazzling oncoming traffic with mis-aligned headlamps. The problem is that there is a bracket on the stock control arm which positions the sensor arm correctly. Most adjustable control arms are cylintrical--and many twist. The only way to do it correctly would be to attach a bracket and verify that you have it positioned so that the auto-levelling is actually levelling, and not tweaked up.

When doing the upper arms, most people zip tie the sensor arm to the sensor so that it is fixed, and thus your lights don't move. Just be sure that they are in the neutral (or down) position, and not in the up position.

 

the Bentley book is definetly worth having. Having been through a fairly complex intall, however, I have found an issue or two.

1. Most of the procedures make the assumption that you will be using "factory tools" which are sometimes multi-purpose. So much so that a work-around may save time. For example, Bentley, and presumably TIS, want you to support the engine using the factory tool when removing the gearbox-to-frame-mount. To do this, you also have to remove the thermostat housing, which means drain the cooling system. This is simply to use one of the thermostat housing bolt holes for attaching the factory tool. I used a jack under the engine.

2. many times, sub-disassembly instructions are called for, which may not be fully necessary. For example, you have to remove the driveshafts from the trans to pull the trans, so they refer you to "Driveshaft Removal" which steps out that you remove the wheel hub nut, a bugger. For removing the trans, you simply need to pry the drive shaft ends out of the transmission and can leave the hub end connected.

3. and then there was that bit about brake bleeding...

 

I imagine this book gives factory specs of what to torq specific bolts to, right?

 

Yep!

 

What would happen if I disconnect the rear headlight sensor? I wonder if the headlight will function correctly?