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On the UK Dyno Day, our Stage-1 "S" (Paul Webster MINI) made the most Torque and even beat out two F56 JCWs, but it was a couple of HP behind the Stage-2 mapped JCW... So clutch slippage could have definitely been a factor.
If you look at the other graph from the 1320's Mustang Dyno, the power graph is pretty straight... but the stock clutch was slipping when we were finalizing the tune.
On the streets, the car pulls like mad... and we are on the hunt for a Stage 2 clutch before we install the de-Cat and colder plugs; that's when we can turn the boost up from the current level of 18PSI
I would have thought the coopers s turbo would be getting close to its max how far do you think you can push it ?
I would have thought the coopers s turbo would be getting close to its max how far do you think you can push it ?
I'm curious about this as well, considering stock F56S is only 10-12psi @ WOT.
How bout fueling? I see Bytetronik is targeting 12:1 AFR which is lower than stock. Do you think the injectors can cope with more boost while maintaining 12 ish AFR? Not to mention the additional injector load if you have to run E85 mix to get to 20+ psi.
Power isn't just made from throwing more psi through the turbo. Timing can also be modified to create more power without running insane amounts of boost.
I wonder if there is an efficiency chart out there for the S and JCW turbo's.
Power isn't just made from throwing more psi through the turbo. Timing can also be modified to create more power without running insane amounts of boost.
That is correct.. making good power is more than just turning up the boost. The plug-in units are probably tricking the ECU and boosting a lot more than 18 PSI; yet our tune adjusted at 18 PSI is making more WHP and a LOT more Wheel Torque...
That is correct.. making good power is more than just turning up the boost. The plug-in units are probably tricking the ECU and boosting a lot more than 18 PSI; yet our tune adjusted at 18 PSI is making more WHP and a LOT more Wheel Torque...
Actually from my logs, the JB4 only pushes out 13-14 psi on Map1 and 15-16 psi on Map2. AFR hovers around 13:1 @ WOT. This is on B48 F56 S. These boost numbers are not peak numbers but sustained boost @ WOT.
I believe other boxes are running at even less boost, NM on high is only +5psi and Dinan on Race is only +4 psi, where as the JB4 Map2 is +6psi.
The ECU flashes do seem to produce more torque numbers. And I like how you're targeting a richer AFR @ 12:1 ish.
Bytetronik, do you happen to log ignition timing on your dyno runs? I'm a potential customer and I'd like to see as much info as possible before I send out my DME. Thanks!
Actually from my logs, the JB4 only pushes out 13-14 psi on Map1 and 15-16 psi on Map2. AFR hovers around 13:1 @ WOT. This is on B48 F56 S. These boost numbers are not peak numbers but sustained boost @ WOT.
I believe other boxes are running at even less boost, NM on high is only +5psi and Dinan on Race is only +4 psi, where as the JB4 Map2 is +6psi.
The ECU flashes do seem to produce more torque numbers. And I like how you're targeting a richer AFR @ 12:1 ish.
Our target AFR is actually 11.7 and the ECU loves it. On the dyno's AFR, it's measuring at the tailpipe with the OEM CAT intact so the AFR readings are .3 to .4 off actual.
With the "Schubblurbben (burble) parameters optimized for more bangs and pop", do you know if it now pops on regular mode without sport mode? Just curious.
With the "Schubblurbben (burble) parameters optimized for more bangs and pop", do you know if it now pops on regular mode without sport mode? Just curious.
Complete the order form and send it to us; we will send you an invoice => Bytetronik Order Form
***Disclaimer: With our Stage 1 Custom Flash, your F56 should produce approximately 470Nm / ~349 Engine Torque /over 300 Wheel Torque; so if your clutch is weak, then don't get our flash. We are not responsible to your clutch slipping
Parameters Adjusted on our tunes:
Cold-start routine delete (optional)
Raised Speed limiter (VMAX)
Fuel Pressure raised
Target Lambda optimized
Clutch torque optimized
Optimum torque optimized
Torque monitors optimized
Schubblurbben (burble) parameters optimized for more bangs and pop
Schubblurbben (burble) in 'non-Sport Mode' (optional)
Race start (launch control) start temperature modified
Boost target optimized
Target torque optimized
Power Meter Display mod (typically set at 320HP /320Torque)
Typical Gains over OEM Stock: +40 to 55 WHP; +60 to 78 WTQE
You will need to remove the ECU from your car and send that in to us for patching. If you do not want your ECU to be opened, then this service is NOT for you.
If you opt for the OBD2 Flashing Module, then you will get two tune files: your OEM tune and the BT Stage1 tune. If you only buy the Stage1 tune, then the tune will be flashed directly onto your ECU.
NOTE: With our Stage1 flash, the dealership has the ability to overwrite (or flash over) the tune in your ECU. If your ECU got a software update at the dealership, then you'll have to send in your ECU to us for 're-patching' to enable OBD flashing once again. The cost of "re-patching" your ECU is $100 plus return shipping.
So, if I buy the "Flashing Module" I wouldn't have to send you the ECU? I can switch back and forth from stock to stage 1 at will? For example... if I have a warranty problem and I have to take it to the dealer can I return it to stock tune and not worry about the dealer being any wiser about it? This is the main reason I'm running an NM piggy back right now, because I can remove it when the car needs service and then re-install it later. I have another 2 years or 25000 miles warranty on my car and don't want to just throw it away.
So, if I buy the "Flashing Module" I wouldn't have to send you the ECU? I can switch back and forth from stock to stage 1 at will? For example... if I have a warranty problem and I have to take it to the dealer can I return it to stock tune and not worry about the dealer being any wiser about it? This is the main reason I'm running an NM piggy back right now, because I can remove it when the car needs service and then re-install it later. I have another 2 years or 25000 miles warranty on my car and don't want to just throw it away.
Whether or not you buy the "Flashing module", you still have to send the ECU so it can be unlocked for OBD Flashing.
Just a FYI: These new ECUs are so advanced and there are so many algorithms that checks for everything. If they want to find a way to void your warranty, they will "find it" in the ECU even if you're running a piggyback. There is a lot of info contained in the ECU's adaptation data...
Thanks for the hard work guys. I've sent my ECU already and excited to see how it does. I've learned and realized that going through a custom tune is a lot more annoying. Having the ability to flash any map I want is just so much easier. Looking forward to this.
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Just a FYI: These new ECUs are so advanced and there are so many algorithms that checks for everything. If they want to find a way to void your warranty, they will "find it" in the ECU even if you're running a piggyback. There is a lot of info contained in the ECU's adaptation data...
Oh so true, the information will be contained in that little silver box, whether you want to realize it or not. Ever since OBDII, the ECU has a snapshot of what happened just before a failure to view with the right access.
Had a friend that purchased an extended warranty on his ride (not a MINI) and ended up finding the right combination of cornering G-forces and oil levels that didn't mix and fried his engine...not an uncommon failure in that particular car/engine. He reported the failure occurred as he was accelerating onto the expressway at a 'normal' pace. The extended warranty company came back and asked him how the ECU was showing just under 1G of cornering force and just over 7000rpm in 3rd gear when the failure occurred. He had nothing to say, as that is exactly what he was doing when the engine failed (i.e.- making a bonzi run on the on-ramp), so his claim was rejected and the engine replacement was 100% his responsibility. Have fun, but be careful out there!
Man, I wish I didn't just sell my other car and could leave the JCW sitting without it's ECU for a while. Overnight back and forth from NY will be expensive. Don't you guys want to make a trip out to the east coast?
Man, I wish I didn't just sell my other car and could leave the JCW sitting without it's ECU for a while. Overnight back and forth from NY will be expensive. Don't you guys want to make a trip out to the east coast?
FedEx 2-Day shipping is not that bad. We can typically turn it around within 2 business days. If your ECU's SW version is too new, then we will 'unlock' your ECU and then send it back to you. By the time you receive the ECU, we will have the maps made and email that to you so you can flash it into the ECU.
If you time it correctly, the down time shouldn't be more than 5 business days
